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About CastleLeatherWorks

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  • Location
    los angeles

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  • Leatherwork Specialty
    wallets for now
  • Interested in learning about
    fine leatherworking
  • How did you find leatherworker.net?
    the internet

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  1. I too bought a kit from amazon when i first started about 2 years ago. the only thing i still use is the block of beeswax and the wood burnisher lol. i still buy some tools from amazon just for the sheer convince. for my leather i go through rocky mountain leather supply, district leather supply and occasionally Springfield leather. you might want to look into a poundo (rubberized) board or even a thicker scrap piece of leather. instead of running your pricking irons into your cutting mat. so the 0.45mm i was referring to is the diameter of the thread and thats my most commonly used size for the goods i make.... theres a whole bunch of different diameters but you will find what works for you. i have several spools of thread i wont ever use because i didn't know what i was buying when i ordered it. pricking irons range from 2.7mm for small goods like watch straps all the way up to 6mm for bigger items and thats the distance between the holes it will make. then there's the different types of irons you can get diamond, french or round style are all popular. if you do a search on amazon you can see all the different types available.
  2. Its really all personal preference. some people like a more rustic look while others want something that looks super refined and higher end. i dont know what size pricking irons you used but i would just suggest thinner thread for now untill you figure out what look you want. i use 0.45mm for most of my projects spaced at 3.38mm but with tighter stitch spacing like 3.0 or 2.7mm i think i might step it down 0.35mm. For being a new at leather work you're doing the right thing by constantly making things and asking a lot of questions. as for the leather youre using it looks like utility grade which is fine for prototyping. i went thru a whole side when i first started. it was split horribly with some parts being 2.0oz and the rest somewhere around 6/7oz. this is when i started looking into skiving and splitters. Also when i first started i bought a bunch of dyes thinking i was going to hand dye all my projects and soon found out that wasnt the best route for me. Now i buy single shoulders or panels of different colors already split down to the thickness i like which is around1.0/2.0oz. makes my life easier and i always get a consistent color and finish. you will find out what works for you the longer you're in the trade. take care =)
  3. I like the design and i think with some refinements it could look great. the main thing i notice is the way the gusset comes together at the bottom. It looks like you used 3 pieces (left,right and bottom) or maybe im wrong. If that's the case i think it might look better if you were to integrate the bottom gusset into the main outside wall of the wallet and you would only need 2 side gussets so it wraps around if that makes since. Or if you do it your way maybe use some thinner leather and pre punch the panels so you can glue together and sew as opposed to trying to get inside the gusset with your pricking iron. Also i would recommend some thinner thread but thats just my personal preference. Keep it up !
  4. Finished up this little long wallet for a customer over the weekend. Outside is MPG Apollo in Bourbon color and the inside is natural veg tan from La perla azzura...hands down the nicest veg tan I’ve come across !! I used 0.45 mm twist brand waxed linen thread in coffee color spaced at 3.38mm for the stitching and finished the edges with a light brown dye (sanded with 200/600/1000/2000 grit) then dyed, burnished with tokonole and finished with some wax and buffed with canvas. delivery to customer is in 2 days and I’m thinking about sanding and re-dying the edge to see if I can get a more uniform color because in some places it’s lighter/darker than others. Comments and critiques always welcome =)
  5. Great work ....thats a very nice looking bag and that's a solid design, it looks like it will last a lifetime !!! Will you leave the edges raw or do you plan on finishing them ?
  6. So this is how I make my pockets you can see the profile . I use a “T” shaped pocket and I use a French skiver to get the backside down as thin as possible about a half in from the top of the pocket. It really does cut down on the interior bulk of the wallet. This leather is 0.6 mm and I was making a wallet that holds 4 cards in each side so 6 pockets and 2 fronts the front 2 don’t get Skived at all to maintain a consistent thickness. Hope that helps a bit take care
  7. simply put youre not going to find one brand of tool like craftsman or snap-on that have everything you need. some tools work for certain people and some dont and some are indeed junk. i dont tool leather will be of no help with those items. what kind of products do you intend to make? do you want to make fine leather goods or saddle and tac ? these things will define what kind of tools you buy. i spent alot of money on cheap tools and i actually still use some of them mostly my edge creaser and maul. theres also this brand "OWDEN" that makes decently priced tools and you can get them on amazon. i have a french skiver and edge beveler from them and they work excellent but you have to keep them sharp. Also "Wuta" makes affordable tools that are decent quality i have their french style pricking irons and theyre my goto for now. maybe this video will help you if you havent already seen it. good luck on your leather working journey
  8. thanks for the kind words. Im also interested to see how the wax wears off and the patina develops. I really like working with buttero mainly for the variety of colors. i like that i can get it split really thin 0.6/08mm and it still has enough body not to flop around while skiving or working with thin panels. I do have a side of wicket and craig naty veg that i use for jobs that i hand dye on occasion i find its really dry and i dont like that i have to do alot of finishing to get the look i want. Also i feel like the wicket and craig has alot more scars than the italian stuff ive been buying. i have no experience with hermann oak although it does look really nice, if i could find a supplier that splits panels of it i would like to try some. I did just recently try this veg tan from La Perla Azurra and i can say with out a doubt its probably my new favorite leather.
  9. Ive been using a cheap 1.5mm creaser that i got from amazon almost 2 years ago. it was like $10/$12 and its been working fairly well. i use it with a little tea light candle to heat it and it does the job. i know there's more expensive ones you can purchase but they're basically the same profile and will do the same job you know... the amazon one is pretty well built for the money.... i did have to use some sand paper to smooth out the edge on the tip of the creaser as it was digging into my projects going around tight curves and contoured the handle a bit so it doesn't aggravate my thumb when applying pressure. Im planning on purchasing a fileteuse from rocky mountain leather supply when i can justify the cost, as its not going to be cheap with all the accessories and different tips needed for smoothing paint and edge creasing. hopefully someone with some more experience can chime in as im curious about other higher end creasers myself and if the cost is justified.
  10. i must admit these are way better looking than i initially envisioned lol...... great job and the designs are nice
  11. I would love to see some pictures of these hats. while i would almost certainty not wear a leather hat im sure there might be a handful of people not opposed to such a thing.
  12. thank you ! 1) yes the leather i used is 0.6 buttero 2) the center piece IS just hanging there its glued with weldwood contact cement. the span is only 3/4 of an inch so its not that big and i haven't had any issues with separation. I have considered stitching all the way across and might implement that into future works. 3) there is hidden pockets behind the card slots. 4) the section you mentioned that is unstitched between the card slots. ( answered this in the previous question #2 ) 5) i don't stitch around the top corners because i have heard from some other makers that the friction of going in and out of the pocket has worn the thread and they have failed...i might implement in the future because i do like the look and im considering switching from linen to poly thread. plus i usually paint my edges after i stitch so it would be in the way. this is one of a handful of items Ive made with dyed edges. 6) the card slots are not fully lined to keep the bulk down and because buttero has enough body at .6mm to stand up on it own. i have fully lined some projects done with chevre because it gets kinda floppy at the thinner weights...also just the main bill compartment is fully lined (i might have to make a note of this in future posts as to not confuse people.. when i say fully lined im only referring to the money slot) Do you ever post your work? theres only a handful of us on this site who do this kind of leather work and i want to see it all LOL
  13. theirs a dealer in so cal where im located who was selling some yamata post beds and they looked and performed very nicely. great for sneakers/bags/hats id say go for it. if you're local maybe take a hat and patch to see if you can do a test run. i think this would be more beneficial than a patcher. i don't like patchers so i might be slightly biased..
  14. Great job for a first project and quite ambitious i would say. i think you did very well. if you cleaned up the edges and the little bits of nap i cant see anything major or that needs work. i like the dyed color and stitching looks good although the thread is a little heavy for my liking. im sure this bag will last for a long time and develop a nice patina.'\ Keep it up
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