Leather finishes

[abn]

I've used a number of different leather finishes, but would be curious to know which one is the darling of this forum's readers.

Your vote (and any additional comments) would be appreciated!

-Alex

[Tom Katzke]

I've used a number of different leather finishes, but would be curious to know which one is the darling of this forum's readers.

Your vote (and any additional comments) would be appreciated!

-Alex

A very open question. We do 2 types of leather work. Traditional and art for display. For traditional I like oil and no finish or Leather Balm w/ Atom Wax.

For art work I use UV Matt Krylon. Seals the work and the color, the UV part helps keep the leather from darkening and keeps the colors original.

We use others but at this time that is my list of favorites. Tried to vote but it will only take one choice.

Tom Katzke

Central Oregon

[abn]

Tried to vote but it will only take one choice.

Yes, I thought that might be a limitation for folks using different finishes for different types of products. (Maybe "other" would be the appropriate poll choice.)

Regardless, thanks for sharing your preferences.

[Gregory B. Moody]

Two coats of Fiebings Carnauba Cream ( lightly brushed immediately so none stays in impressions )

Let dry between each coat and before the next step. This is what keeps the Antique from going directly into the leather ... and allows the cuts and impressions to be darker than the surface... which is the essence of ' antique look' which accents your labor and artistic input....

One coat Fiebings Medium Brown Antique Finish ( applied with small piece of trimmed sherling ) wiped off with pieces of cotton sheet one direction only each... discard wipe and keep wiping all directions one way until no streaks are left showing.

Let dry.

One coat of Neutral Shoe polish... then repeat the shoe polish for the life of the project... once every 6 months to a year.

Warm brown color ( so it looks like leather )... Not a cheap glossy finish.. so it looks and feels expensive... won't crack on areas of the project which bend.... very good at not darkening over time ( I have samples 45 years old which look new )....the only finish I use ... and which was used on many of the Tandy Leather Catalog samples my father made while a Tandy manager...and on many of the Leather Factory Catalog samples .... Greg

Edited September 29, 2006 by dsenette

[pepin1948]

Aussie Wax. Ever since I used it on my saddle, I've been hooked. I suppose technically it's not a finish, so second place I'd choose Super Shene.

[Billsotx]

Lexol is all I just a lot of times.

[Johanna]

I do not like Super Shene/ Satin Sheen, especially on any item that needs to flex. During the lifetime care of the item, it seems that the Super Shene prevents the preservative oils we use from absorbing properly, too. Somewhere I remember hearing that it was developed as a non-toxic, non-flammable alternative for Neat Lac, like the Institutional Dyes were, but I could be wrong. I like Neat Lac better, but do not suggest you ever even open the can without good ventilation. Toluene is a carcinogenic, and the headache from breathing the fumes is awful.

Johanna

[CitizenKate]

I used to use satin shene - don't like the shiny acrylic finish 'cause (just my own opinion) it makes leather look like plastic. But I switched away from it when I saw how easy it was for a bit of stray moisture to destroy the finish. Jeff Mosby got me to try Bee Natural leather finish, and I just love the stuff! It creates a very natural-looking finish, even if I put it on heavy and buff it to a shine, and it stands up to moisture much better than acrylic finishes. I also like it better than other waxes, such as neutral shoe polish, because it seems to absorb into the leather better and is not as prone to cracking. At least that's what I've noticed with my own projects.

If I want as much waterproofing as possible (like on coasters), I use Neat-Lac. I used to hate Neat-Lac because I thought it made the leather look plasticy, but that was because I was putting it on too heavy. When I put it on in several very light coats, the leather retained its natural appearance.

[abn]

During the lifetime care of the item, it seems that the Super Shene prevents the preservative oils we use from absorbing properly, too.

Johanna, I've often wondered about this. It seems we put these lacquered or waxy or plastic finishes on top of something that was designed to breathe (and absorb conditioners). I wonder if it's best to do as Billsotx suggests -- just top off with Lexol and buff for a nice satin finish...

[CitizenKate]

That might be sufficient, if you don't use antiques or dyes, and you've made something that is going to just sit and look pretty. But if you do use dyes and antiques, you need some kind of a top coat to help keep them from bleeding and fading. And if you've made an item that is going to get exposed to any kind of environmental adversity, you will want something to protect your leather from moisture. Antique paste, for example, will dissolve if it comes into direct contact with moisture, including liquid conditioners.

Johanna, I've often wondered about this. It seems we put these lacquered or waxy or plastic finishes on top of something that was designed to breathe (and absorb conditioners). I wonder if it's best to do as Billsotx suggests -- just top off with Lexol and buff for a nice satin finish...