Unclean edges

[RockyAussie]

1 hour ago, LionCrownLeather said:

I used fieblings pro oil dye, the same dye I used on my project. 

What do you use for polishing the edges? 

You mention Ironing the edges, how do you do that? 

Most of the answers to these questions and a whole lot more you can see within this post I did awhile ago. Although this is about making croc belts the same procedure is applied to most of the other products as well normally. https://leatherworker.net/forum/topic/86675-how-i-make-crocodile-skin-leather-belts/

If you care to go to my profile section and have a look in the about me section you can find a lot of other projects that will show you a bit more here and there.

[LionCrownLeather]

11 hours ago, RockyAussie said:

Most of the answers to these questions and a whole lot more you can see within this post I did awhile ago. Although this is about making croc belts the same procedure is applied to most of the other products as well normally. https://leatherworker.net/forum/topic/86675-how-i-make-crocodile-skin-leather-belts/

If you care to go to my profile section and have a look in the about me section you can find a lot of other projects that will show you a bit more here and there.

Thank you. While I have you on the thread I have a second question. If I dip dye my projects and want to dye my edges with another color compared to the primary dye I used for dip dyeing my project how do I do that? I always dip dye because when I dye my projects with a dauber I always get dye on the edges giving the piece an unconsisten look. Maybe I should bevel after dyeing? 

[LionCrownLeather]

On 7/1/2020 at 3:08 AM, Spyros said:

I think edges is one of those things that only other leather workers notice. I've decided to keep mine somewhat reasonable and focus on the important things, which is pretty much everything else except edges  LOL

Having said that, the best tutorial I've seen is on edges was by another Swedish member, Danne:

 

Interesting post. He does not use any slicker which is quite odd to me. I have seen other posts where they dont use a creaser but also get great results. Apparently every person seem to have their own way of treating the edges. 

[Danne]

1 hour ago, LionCrownLeather said:

Interesting post. He does not use any slicker which is quite odd to me. I have seen other posts where they dont use a creaser but also get great results. Apparently every person seem to have their own way of treating the edges. 

Hi LionCrownLeather, one of the reasons I never use a slicker is that my edges are rarely thicker than 2mm. (In some cases 3mm on watch straps) For really thick edges I can see the benefit of a slicker, even though I would probably use a cloth. I don't even like canvas, I prefer something a little less rough.

I'm certainly no expert on burnishing dyed edges. But here is how I have done it the few times i've tried it. (Include a photo of a dyed and burnished edge with this technique.)

1. Sand edges flat, the choice of grit depends a little bit on the type of leather, a stiffer leather and a rougher sandpaper like around 100-200 grit works good. For medium soft and softer leather I prefer 400 grit (wet and dry, I use Mirka) Don't put to much pressure on the edge when you sand, then you "mush" the edge, if you do, just lay it flat and burnish the edge transition from both sides (to push down the edge) Also try to sand "across the egde" and not along the edge. (Finer sanding I do along the edge, rougher sanding across the edge.) Sand until you have a relatively flat edge. (Flash cut your edge and you don't need to sand at all.

2. Burnish the edge with water. (I use a brush and just brush on a small amount of water.

3. slightly sand the edge with 400 grit.

4. Dye your edge (Why did I burnish with water before dying? to avoid dye seeping over the edge to much, especially if the leather is not lined)

4. Burnish with tokonole

5. Sand with 400 grit

6. Burnish with tokonole

7. Keep doing this until you have a relatively good edge. And keep doing the same but with a higher grit like 800-1200.

(Optional) 8. Melt bees wax or paraffin on the edge and burnish.

 

But there are a lot of ways to burnish edges, both techniques and agents like with Tokonole, Saddle soap, Arabic gum or Funori.

Edited July 2, 2020 by Danne

[RockyAussie]

On 7/2/2020 at 6:42 AM, LionCrownLeather said:

Thank you. While I have you on the thread I have a second question. If I dip dye my projects and want to dye my edges with another color compared to the primary dye I used for dip dyeing my project how do I do that? I always dip dye because when I dye my projects with a dauber I always get dye on the edges giving the piece an unconsisten look. Maybe I should bevel after dyeing? 

I don't do much dyeing of leather edges myself and for every person out there, there is almost as many methods. What type of product you are doing will often change how you go about it. I would have a good look through this post which can be found pinned in the How to section forum along with a few other similar subjects-

 

[LionCrownLeather]

On 7/2/2020 at 8:10 AM, Danne said:

Hi LionCrownLeather, one of the reasons I never use a slicker is that my edges are rarely thicker than 2mm. (In some cases 3mm on watch straps) For really thick edges I can see the benefit of a slicker, even though I would probably use a cloth. I don't even like canvas, I prefer something a little less rough.

I'm certainly no expert on burnishing dyed edges. But here is how I have done it the few times i've tried it. (Include a photo of a dyed and burnished edge with this technique.)

1. Sand edges flat, the choice of grit depends a little bit on the type of leather, a stiffer leather and a rougher sandpaper like around 100-200 grit works good. For medium soft and softer leather I prefer 400 grit (wet and dry, I use Mirka) Don't put to much pressure on the edge when you sand, then you "mush" the edge, if you do, just lay it flat and burnish the edge transition from both sides (to push down the edge) Also try to sand "across the egde" and not along the edge. (Finer sanding I do along the edge, rougher sanding across the edge.) Sand until you have a relatively flat edge. (Flash cut your edge and you don't need to sand at all.

2. Burnish the edge with water. (I use a brush and just brush on a small amount of water.

3. slightly sand the edge with 400 grit.

4. Dye your edge (Why did I burnish with water before dying? to avoid dye seeping over the edge to much, especially if the leather is not lined)

4. Burnish with tokonole

5. Sand with 400 grit

6. Burnish with tokonole

7. Keep doing this until you have a relatively good edge. And keep doing the same but with a higher grit like 800-1200.

(Optional) 8. Melt bees wax or paraffin on the edge and burnish.

 

But there are a lot of ways to burnish edges, both techniques and agents like with Tokonole, Saddle soap, Arabic gum or Funori.

Thank you for this useful information 

[johnv474]

Something that can help with the line between layers remaining in the center is to paste/flatten the back near the edge.  Tokonole (better) or CMC (far cheaper) are both good for this.  After applying, wait a few seconds and then compress with a bone folder or something else smooth.  Obviously, don't bevel the backside.

 

By compressing the fibers, some of the loose small ones won't want to cross the centerline.

[Danne]

14 minutes ago, johnv474 said:

Something that can help with the line between layers remaining in the center is to paste/flatten the back near the edge.  Tokonole (better) or CMC (far cheaper) are both good for this.  After applying, wait a few seconds and then compress with a bone folder or something else smooth.  Obviously, don't bevel the backside.

 

By compressing the fibers, some of the loose small ones won't want to cross the centerline.

But wouldn't Tokonole or Tragacanth cause adhesion problems for the glue?

My example photo is two layers of leather, how did I avoid the line between layers? very thin coats of glue (water based used as contact cement) Sometimes it can be a problem if a slower drying glue is used, it's important to let it dry completely before burnishing.

Edited July 5, 2020 by Danne

[johnv474]

I do not suggest Tragacanth.  It may have some use somewhere but I don't like it for leather.

Tokonole contains adhesive.  CMC does not.  Either one will interfere with dye absorption, but neither interfere with glue or cement in my experience.  I still sand/scuff the area I am actually gluing, however.

If you use water-based contact cement such as Aquilim, then be aware that both Tokonole and CMC are water-based.  Maybe that's why they work. 

If you use the neoprene-based contact cement (Barge, Masters, etc), the solvents in there will cut through most anything you put on the leather anyway.  For a very good bond, use it thinned down a lot for your first coat, and let it dry entirely.  That layer will act as a primer for subsequent coats.

Either of those options do their job well but are not topcoats.  They need Resolene or something else when the project is done.

 I recently used CMC and glue to smooth pebbled kidskins, then stacked them four thick. I let the glue dry under some pressure.  When cut, you could see the dark/light striped effect and there were no gaps. They burnished beautifully. I'll see if I still have any.

Edited July 5, 2020 by johnv474

[LionCrownLeather]

On 7/5/2020 at 1:24 PM, johnv474 said:

Something that can help with the line between layers remaining in the center is to paste/flatten the back near the edge.  Tokonole (better) or CMC (far cheaper) are both good for this.  After applying, wait a few seconds and then compress with a bone folder or something else smooth.  Obviously, don't bevel the backside.

 

By compressing the fibers, some of the loose small ones won't want to cross the centerline.

If I compress the fibres wont that interfere when I apply glue to hold the pieces together? Because tokonole closes the fibres and I think those asisst in making the piece glued harder together? 

Edited July 16, 2020 by LionCrownLeather