Unclean edges

[paloma]

to have a clean edge, you have to cut the two pieces of leather together and at the same time once sewn, then, without sanding, pass either an acrylic primer and then sand and then pass the color of edge giardini style, and then sand again and put a new coat of paint.me I cut and then I pass tragacante gum,burnishing, I sand and wax with beeswax several times, burnishing,but before I passed the carnuba wax.

Edited July 17, 2020 by paloma

[johnv474]

17 hours ago, LionCrownLeather said:

If I compress the fibres wont that interfere when I apply glue to hold the pieces together? Because tokonole closes the fibres and I think those asisst in making the piece glued harder together? 

Tokonole contains a small amount of adhesive that the glue sticks to.  CMC is a very mild adhesive as well, perhaps on par with envelope glue. It is a very thin layer that does not seal anything.  Most adhesives will seal the fibers once dry.

Cutting the pieces after being glued, as Paloma mentioned, is also very effective and can help eliminate fibers crossing the centerline.

To eliminate fibers crossing over you can use thinner leather (fibers are looser the deeper in the skin they were), or from a denser part of the hide (butt then shoulder then back then belly), or skive / sand the back smoother, or compress the fibers on the flesh side.

[Danne]

2 hours ago, johnv474 said:

Tokonole contains a small amount of adhesive that the glue sticks to.  CMC is a very mild adhesive as well, perhaps on par with envelope glue. It is a very thin layer that does not seal anything.  Most adhesives will seal the fibers once dry.

Cutting the pieces after being glued, as Paloma mentioned, is also very effective and can help eliminate fibers crossing the centerline.

To eliminate fibers crossing over you can use thinner leather (fibers are looser the deeper in the skin they were), or from a denser part of the hide (butt then shoulder then back then belly), or skive / sand the back smoother, or compress the fibers on the flesh side.

 

The strange part here is, I have no problem with this at all. A thin layer solvent based or water based contact cement and put together and hammer or press down the edges and let it dry before finishing edges. But I think the reason might be that all my leather is split down (In a band knife splitter) so the flesh side is very even. Also the thickest leather I use is 1mm. Like in my example it's two 1mm layers glued together and you have to look very close to see any line between layers (almost invisible)

[LionCrownLeather]

On 7/17/2020 at 7:17 PM, johnv474 said:

Tokonole contains a small amount of adhesive that the glue sticks to.  CMC is a very mild adhesive as well, perhaps on par with envelope glue. It is a very thin layer that does not seal anything.  Most adhesives will seal the fibers once dry.

Cutting the pieces after being glued, as Paloma mentioned, is also very effective and can help eliminate fibers crossing the centerline.

To eliminate fibers crossing over you can use thinner leather (fibers are looser the deeper in the skin they were), or from a denser part of the hide (butt then shoulder then back then belly), or skive / sand the back smoother, or compress the fibers on the flesh side.

When cutting the pieces after gluing what I like about this idea is that you can decide which color you want the edge to be. In my case I always dip dye, and if I want the edges to have the natural leather color I simply cut after I have dyed, but if I want the edges to be dyed I simply cut before dyeing. thank you