Advice needed for working with Lin Cable (linen thread)

[Danne]

18 hours ago, zuludog said:

Ah yes, I'd forgotten about that, thanks for the reminder

For years, before I became interested in leatherwork I repaired tents & rucsacs, and I just put the thread through the eye of the needle and that was that

Soon after I became interested I went on a leatherworking course and was shown the usual method of threading a saddler's needle, piercing the thread, and locking it. I tried it for a while afterwards, but decided it was too fiddly, so I went back to just a simple pass through the eye

As Toxo mentions, you can vary the length of working thread (is that the correct term? I'm sure you'll know what I mean) and the tail to make longer or shorter pulls through the work; and also spread out the wear on the thread caused by the eye. Waxed thread grips well, and fills the eye so the needle doesn't often slip off the  thread of its own accord

I don't tie a knot in the end of the thread; I just do a bit of backstitching or overstitching at the start. With linen thread it's held in place by friction, and with synthetic I heat seal the end of the thread after I've trimmed it

Also a tip, take some white glue (not contact cement based) regular white glue is better, and I still have a five year old small bottle I mainly use for this purpose and for layered paddings where I skive through the glue. take a round awl and push in some white glue in the hole after back stitching. You can also put some glue on the thread loops right before you pull the last backstitch tight. It's quick and add that little extra bond. 

[NeilMott]

Great tips everyone.  I use Aquilim 315 which is a white contact cement, but I shouldn't use that right?  What would be the disadvantage of using that?  It's a contact cement, but it does have some give if you don't let it tack up first.  If not, I'll have to track down some white glue.  

Best,

Neil

[Danne]

29 minutes ago, NeilMott said:

Great tips everyone.  I use Aquilim 315 which is a white contact cement, but I shouldn't use that right?  What would be the disadvantage of using that?  It's a contact cement, but it does have some give if you don't let it tack up first.  If not, I'll have to track down some white glue.  

Best,

Neil

Aquilim 315 is an awesome glue, and very strong. You get an instant bond (No need to clamp like with regular white glue) just like with solvent based contact cement, and it gets stronger after curing a couple of days. But when I put a little bit of glue on the thread after back stitching I prefer a regular white glue. 

In which situations do you need a solvent based glue? If you glue synthetic materials, or oily/waxy leathers especially with edges without stitching. Renia also have a product (hardener) for 315 if you want to use it with waxy/oily leather, I haven't tried it though 

http://www.renia.com/tech_D_G/552-D_G.tech.pdf

Also if you make layered paddings (glue layers of leathers together and skive through them) a white glue is better, because it's a hard to skive through 315 because the knife tends to get stuck.

Edited August 26, 2020 by Danne

[NeilMott]

So, here's what I did on this nato strap.  I backstitched and pulled the thread through almost all the way.  I put a dab of Aquilim (I didn't have any glue or patience to wait a day) in the hole, then pulled the thread through.  

I then snipped the thread.  I'd like to have backstitched the hole thing, but I wanted to try to maintain the look of a single thread through most of the middle stitching, as I think it looks better.  But on the back, even with a decent set of snippers you have see the ends...

People have said to add a dab of glue and kinda push them back in, but it seems like I'd be pushing the thread out the other side, or make it loose...

[Danne]

13 minutes ago, NeilMott said:

So, here's what I did on this nato strap.  I backstitched and pulled the thread through almost all the way.  I put a dab of Aquilim (I didn't have any glue or patience to wait a day) in the hole, then pulled the thread through.  

I then snipped the thread.  I'd like to have backstitched the hole thing, but I wanted to try to maintain the look of a single thread through most of the middle stitching, as I think it looks better.  But on the back, even with a decent set of snippers you have see the ends...

People have said to add a dab of glue and kinda push them back in, but it seems like I'd be pushing the thread out the other side, or make it loose...

In a construction like that you also have another good solution, just double loop around the edge when you finish and push the needles out between the layers of leather and make a knot or two between the leather. I think you understand but I google to see if I find an example. 

Like this the only difference is that you will of course go in and out with the needle/thread from the sides in the space beside your metal keepers.

https://www.instructables.com/id/Leather-NATO-Watch-Strap/

[NeilMott]

Wow, a lightbulb just went off!!  Thank you!  I don't often think about tucking the thread inside the strap like that because 95% of the time, I make regular 2 piece watch straps.  I will give it a try tonight and update you.   

[Danne]

34 minutes ago, NeilMott said:

Wow, a lightbulb just went off!!  Thank you!  I don't often think about tucking the thread inside the strap like that because 95% of the time, I make regular 2 piece watch straps.  I will give it a try tonight and update you.   

It's possible on lined watch straps too, but requires a little bit more planning when gluing things together. I haven't tried it, but I usually take screenshots when I see solutions I like. 

 

[NeilMott]

That's really cool.  More and more I'm doing some minimal stitching, so it's great to see it done on two piece watch straps.  Here is the stitching all done.  I forgot to take a picture of the back.  I tied the ends into a double knot then tucked it into the inside near the keeper.  I added a dab of Aquilim contact cement as well.  Because I'm using 332 Lin Cable (0.77mm) the knot was kinda big.  But I don't think it'll be noticeable.  I think I could still do the same thing with the polyester bronze thread I ordered, but could seal the thread on the inside with the thread burner I just bought.  That'd be nice too.