Flush cut wallet parts (techniques)

[Danne]

Hi, I would like to discuss construction techniques in this thread, or cutting techniques.

I start with explaining how I do for example a card pocket section, it can be for a card case or a wallet. Since the thinnest leather I use is 0.5mm I often make the lining to the finished dimension and trim from the back side after top layer and card pockets are glued in place. This solution work good, but when I have a splitting solution I plan to construct my wallets a little different and using thinner weights for the lining, so I will have to learn how to "flush cut" parts. 

Here is an example I saved from someones Instagram.

I can think of a lot of different solutions to do this. Like using a template glued to some thicker card paper, use a L-square ruler. But none ot these solutions will give me a perfect result. And i'm certain there are better solutions. (And no I can't use cutting dies since I focus mostly on custom work and a lot of different dimensions.)

The only solution I can come up with is to draw cut guidelines on the lining, and after assembled use them to trim. (See my drawings) this solution also have it's flaws. You will not be able to for example use a roller press tool (those in steel or rubber) because even if you start in the middle you will distort the leather and loose the dimensions on lining (unless it's stiff leather and/or a little thicker)

 

Let us discuss more ideas. Ideas that will results in very close to perfect dimensions.

 

 

Edited September 10, 2020 by Danne

[mason1800]

@Danne I usually make all the parts 1/2 inch wider than required. After all pieces are glued, I mark 1/8 inch on each side top and bottom and use a Skiving  knife to cut right down the side of a stainless steel ruler. 

I have also used a larger blade punches, the type to punch card slots for single pieces leather. 

[mason1800]

@Danne As for the top i cut the straight edge after i glue the cash pocket and the bottom after i glue the outer piece of the wallet. 

 

My plans are to start making my patterns with 2 to 3 trimming lines, one for the lining of the pockets and backing. one for the top of pockets when they are attached to the cash pocket and the third for when i attach the outer leather. Meaning true size for the bottom and two sides. 

[Danne]

1 minute ago, mason1800 said:

@Danne I usually make all the parts 1/2 inch wider than required. After all pieces are glued, I mark 1/8 inch on each side top and bottom and use a Skiving  knife to cut right down the side of a stainless steel ruler. 

I have also used a larger blade punches, the type to punch card slots for single pieces leather. 

But let's say you would have four card pockets, then you wouldn't have a straight edge to mark from, because of the build up it would be less width on the bottom pockets. I think I will have to just do some practice pieces. I have since I started this craft always planned everything very well before I start a project, but sometimes it can be good to just try things.

 

[mason1800]

the more pockets you layer, the less width towards the bottom. Now for every pocket, mine are usually 1mm  thick lining and leather,  the amount of reduced width is about 0.20 of an inch for 5 pockets.  

When you line up to cut you sides, you would use the cutting mat lines. Level the top straight on the mat lines... adjust the leather to 1/8 or 1/4 inch from the side. Lay your steel ruler on top of leather piece and align the ruler to the lines on the mat. this should give you a straight edge. unless of course the top of the pockets are not lined up correctly against the cutting mat lines.  

[Rahere]

I keep a small cutting mat and toughened glass underlay for these uses, together with a small steel square rather than a ruler. The mat lines are the measure-twice.

[Danne]

8 hours ago, mason1800 said:

the more pockets you layer, the less width towards the bottom. Now for every pocket, mine are usually 1mm  thick lining and leather,  the amount of reduced width is about 0.20 of an inch for 5 pockets.  

When you line up to cut you sides, you would use the cutting mat lines. Level the top straight on the mat lines... adjust the leather to 1/8 or 1/4 inch from the side. Lay your steel ruler on top of leather piece and align the ruler to the lines on the mat. this should give you a straight edge. unless of course the top of the pockets are not lined up correctly against the cutting mat lines.  

Yes, I get how you mean here, but I don't feel this give a good enough result. Like 0.5-1mm difference would ruin my "card pocket section" in some situations, for example on a card case with pockets on both sides. 0.5-1mm difference could of course be sanded when assembled, but then my stitching doesn't line up perfectly. But this can also be because your technique with this is better than how I think I would do it if I tried.

[mason1800]

On 9/10/2020 at 7:25 PM, Rahere said:

I keep a small cutting mat and toughened glass underlay for these uses, together with a small steel square rather than a ruler. The mat lines are the measure-twice.

@rahere Same here, except my pockets tend to bulge as the center has the bulk of the leather. Which is why I dont use the square. The steel ruler actually curves along with the leather. 

@Danne when you say "stitching doesn't line up" what are you comparing it to?? the edge or the backside? (Meaning one side is closer to the edge than the other?)

[Danne]

1 hour ago, mason1800 said:

@rahere Same here, except my pockets tend to bulge as the center has the bulk of the leather. Which is why I dont use the square. The steel ruler actually curves along with the leather. 

@Danne when you say "stitching doesn't line up" what are you comparing it to?? the edge or the backside? (Meaning one side is closer to the edge than the other?)

Oh I forgot to mention, I plan to start to x-stitch (punch with the same iron from both sides before assemble)

[Rahere]

You can't cross-stitch with a sloping tooth in that way, though. You get X s