Looking to get first machine for footwear making, any thoughts on singer 29 and Politype leather patcher clones?

[AriShaster]

Im not sure what this forums thoughts are on making footwear and using machines for it, but I would be curious what you all think with regards to that. So in looking for a footwear machine for leather footwear, the two by far most prominent ones are chinese clones of the Singer 29 in either a short 12 inch arm or longer arm variant, and the newly imfamous 115 dollar Politype clone leather patcher. Neither of which come motorized, all of which are sold in some rebranded name or another like techsew, axis, yequin, etc, which makes understanding it all the more difficult for getting parts. If anyone has either and can comment on the pros and cons of working with either machine I would be grateful.

[Wizcrafts]

The Singer 29 and Adler 30 class top universal feed machines are known as shoe and boot "patchers." They are staples in the shoe "repair" business, not so much in the shoe manufacturing business. In order to get recommendations for a first machine that is used to make, rather than repair shoes, you need to explain what type of shoes you plan to make. Links and/or photos will help define your end game.

[AriShaster]

1 hour ago, Wizcrafts said:

The Singer 29 and Adler 30 class top universal feed machines are known as shoe and boot "patchers." They are staples in the shoe "repair" business, not so much in the shoe manufacturing business. In order to get recommendations for a first machine that is used to make, rather than repair shoes, you need to explain what type of shoes you plan to make. Links and/or photos will help define your end game.

I am not particularly sure of the correct terminology for the methods of footwear making, but I would like to do something along the lines of inward style leather footwear, where the sole is more proportioned to the sole of the foot as opposed to being larger to accommodate an outward stitching as are seen in many boots. The boot on the right has what I am trying to do. I get the idea the sole is the most difficult part to get done at this point, yes? I would also like to make myself a pair of winter boots soon as well that are about 12 inches high.

[Wizcrafts]

Outsoles are usually edge sewn on a curved needle and awl lockstitch machine, like the Landis 12 series machines found in most shoe repair shops. Sometimes the soles are sewn from inside the upside down shoe. The machine that does this is called a McKay machine and it is a chainstitcher. The chain lies inside the shoe or boot and gets covered by an insole pad. The seams and decorative patterns on the uppers can be sewn on a zig zag or a straight stitch roller foot machine. Sometimes a double or triple needle machine is used, as is done on Redwing work boots. Because the inside thread is hidden a chainstitch machine is sometimes used.

There are lots of videos on YouTube demonstrating the use of these machines on shoes and boots. I recommend that you watch everything published by our friend and advertiser Lisa Sorrell. Her YouTube channel is called "It's a Boot Life."

[AriShaster]

33 minutes ago, Wizcrafts said:

Outsoles are usually edge sewn on a curved needle and awl lockstitch machine, like the Landis 12 series machines found in most shoe repair shops. Sometimes the soles are sewn from inside the upside down shoe. The machine that does this is called a McKay machine and it is a chainstitcher. The chain lies inside the shoe or boot and gets covered by an insole pad. The seams and decorative patterns on the uppers can be sewn on a zig zag or a straight stitch roller foot machine. Sometimes a double or triple needle machine is used, as is done on Redwing work boots. Because the inside thread is hidden a chainstitch machine is sometimes used.

There are lots of videos on YouTube demonstrating the use of these machines on shoes and boots. I recommend that you watch everything published by our friend and advertiser Lisa Sorrell.

Any other channels for different styles? Im not particularly into cowboy boots, but from what it seems, most of the sole area work is done by hand initially. The rest appears to be doable with something like one of the patching machines that I linked. The 115 dollar one appears to be actually based off of a bradbury machine: https://sewalot.com/bradbury_sewing_machines.htm 

Heres a piece I would like to be able to recreate. I think the term for sole making may have been also called 'lasting" at least from a local company called dehner boot company.

 

Edited September 15, 2020 by AriShaster

[Constabulary]

I´m not a boot or shoe maker but this one looks like vulcanized / directly molded sole.

Do not expect that you can fabricate top notch shoes with a shoe patcher machine. The machines you have shown above a repair machines (resewing seams replacing straps and zippers and the like) and not fabrication machines. Making shoes often requires more than 1 sewing machine. Before you start looking for sewing machine better learn how boot / shoes are made and what materials (not just a rubber sole and some leather) and tools machines are required.

Maybe visiting a shoe/ boot making class is a good idea or find something online like: 

https://icanmakeshoes.com/online-courses/

or similar.

Edited September 15, 2020 by Constabulary

[Wizcrafts]

8 hours ago, AriShaster said:

The rest appears to be doable with something like one of the patching machines that I linked. The 115 dollar one appears to be actually based off of a bradbury machine

Don't expect professional results from one of those Chinese or Vietnamese patch machines.

[Aven]

You are correct, those are lasted, meaning a shoe shaped last of the correct size was used to make the boot.  The upper was put together first.  The midsole is attached to the last and then the upper is stretched over the last and attached to the sole, via glue or stitches.  Once that is done, the outer sole is attached.

The shoe you want to create uses a cup sole that is specifically made for a particular last.  I seriously doubt you will be able to pick them up for one-offs.

[AriShaster]

8 hours ago, Constabulary said:

I´m not a boot or shoe maker but this one looks like vulcanized / directly molded sole.

Do not expect that you can fabricate top notch shoes with a shoe patcher machine. The machines you have shown above a repair machines (resewing seams replacing straps and zippers and the like) and not fabrication machines. Making shoes often requires more than 1 sewing machine. Before you start looking for sewing machine better learn how boot / shoes are made and what materials (not just a rubber sole and some leather) and tools machines are required.

Maybe visiting a shoe/ boot making class is a good idea or find something online like: 

https://icanmakeshoes.com/online-courses/

or similar.

And what machines are that?

[AriShaster]

41 minutes ago, Aven said:

You are correct, those are lasted, meaning a shoe shaped last of the correct size was used to make the boot.  The upper was put together first.  The midsole is attached to the last and then the upper is stretched over the last and attached to the sole, via glue or stitches.  Once that is done, the outer sole is attached.

The shoe you want to create uses a cup sole that is specifically made for a particular last.  I seriously doubt you will be able to pick them up for one-offs.

Ya its a rubber molded cup sole, though I really dont intend on going that route and would probably use a leather or sheet rubber sole. Any advice? I am hoping I can do most of the stitch work with either of the two machines listed, but I am looking for input on them.