Sjm1027 Report post Posted September 22, 2007 I am working on a project and beveling around a flower on the outside and notice I needed a smaller size stamp... about small to medium. As I was stamping I went back and noticed that there are waves on the leather between hits... so on the bevel side it is not to smooth... small waves. I used a modeling tool to smooth over these areas and it does look better but is there a way to not let that happen... All I can figure is I am stamping the bevel tool to far apart only overlapping the hit 1/2 the tool face?? Thanks in advance Steve Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ClayB Report post Posted September 22, 2007 I think that you have figured out your own answer. Most of the teachers will tell you to use the tool like a jack hammer. If you hold the tool slightly above the leather, when you hit it, it will pop back up slightly. You are supposed to continue hitting it quickly while moving the tool a little at a time. I find it kind of difficult to do. Usually I will hit the tool, move it a little, hit it again. Then when I finish the line of beveling I will go back and do it the other way, rapidly hitting and moving the tool to smooth it out. It takes more time than just doing it once, but it gives me the results I want. Proper moisture while beveling is also important. Checkered bevelers usually leave less tracks than smooth bevelers. It's probably going to just take practice to see what works best for you. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Sjm1027 Report post Posted September 22, 2007 I think that you have figured out your own answer. Most of the teachers will tell you to use the tool like a jack hammer. If you hold the tool slightly above the leather, when you hit it, it will pop back up slightly. You are supposed to continue hitting it quickly while moving the tool a little at a time. I find it kind of difficult to do. Usually I will hit the tool, move it a little, hit it again. Then when I finish the line of beveling I will go back and do it the other way, rapidly hitting and moving the tool to smooth it out. It takes more time than just doing it once, but it gives me the results I want. Proper moisture while beveling is also important. Checkered bevelers usually leave less tracks than smooth bevelers. It's probably going to just take practice to see what works best for you. Thanks Clay, I will have at it tomorrow and try some test stampings. -S Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Peter Ellis Report post Posted September 22, 2007 I've had the same problem, and if you look at many pictures on this forum, you can tell the difference between the people who are Really Good at carving and the ones who are working at it but not *there* yet in part by the appearance of those beveling marks. Clay mentioned the same teaching that I've had, a sort of bounce technique to move the bevel along in small steps. Oddly, I've found that I have my best success doing something almost the opposite. If I hold the tool down against the leather and as I tap with my maul I pull against the tool, sliding it along the leather rather than picking it up between strikes, this gives me better looking results. The leather has to be just right (moisture, surface texture) or the tool hangs up and then it winds up being pretty much back to lift and strike because it won't slide... Also, I use a pretty heavy maul and I let the head just bounce on the tool. If the leather is cased properly and of a good temper I don't generally need to hit the bevel, the weight of the maul dropping a couple of inches is enough. This makes for lots of small hits and small steps in the beveling. And no, I'm not *there* yet Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
CitizenKate Report post Posted September 22, 2007 That's exactly the way I found works best for me, as well. I try to move the tool just less than half the width of the tool between taps, but to really smooth it out, I also consider it well worth a second light, quick pass. Also, all bevelers are not created equal. Take a look at the photo I've attached... it shows my Craftool B702 beveler next to a Hidecrafter PB013. The Craftool bevelers have a flatter, less curved beveling surface, which creates impressions with very well defined side edges - not a good thing if you want smooth beveling. (You can work around it somewhat by taking multiple light passes over your beveled area, or I've sometimes gotten fairly good results by leaning the tool slightly in the direction I'm moving the beveler.) The Hidecrafter beveler has side edges that are more rounded, so impression has edges that fade out more gradually, which helps the tool "walk" more smoothly without creating track marks. But that said, there is no substitute for skill, as obtained by much practice! It's better (in my opinion, anyway) to pursue that before upgrading your tools. Kate I think that you have figured out your own answer. Most of the teachers will tell you to use the tool like a jack hammer. If you hold the tool slightly above the leather, when you hit it, it will pop back up slightly. You are supposed to continue hitting it quickly while moving the tool a little at a time. I find it kind of difficult to do. Usually I will hit the tool, move it a little, hit it again. Then when I finish the line of beveling I will go back and do it the other way, rapidly hitting and moving the tool to smooth it out. It takes more time than just doing it once, but it gives me the results I want. Proper moisture while beveling is also important. Checkered bevelers usually leave less tracks than smooth bevelers. It's probably going to just take practice to see what works best for you. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Mike Craw Report post Posted September 22, 2007 Hey Kate! As your photos show, changing brands of tools introduces variables just as changing sizes does. One thing I haven't seen mentioned in the other responses is that changing to a smaller size beveler will require a change in strike. You can strike the larger beveler relatively hard and move the 1/2 tool space and cover most of your tool marks. The force of your strike is spread over the width of the tool face. A smaller beveler will focus the same amount of force in a smaller area, causing a deeper impression and more noticable "edge" marks. Mike Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ClayB Report post Posted September 22, 2007 There is a lot of great advice here. Another place to look is on Bob Beard's website. He did a tutorial on bevelers, and another on matters and backgrounders. Lots of good info in these. http://robertbeardtools.com/bevelertutorial.html http://robertbeardtools.com/educational.html Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
CitizenKate Report post Posted September 22, 2007 (edited) Very true, Mike. I also use a smaller/lighter maul/mallet with my smaller beveling stamps. Just that variable alone created much smoother beveling with my smaller stamps. (Not to mention, less stress on my arm, just another plus of doing things more effectively.) BTW, I don't really use my Craftool bevelers much anymore. I just hang onto them in case I run into someone who wants to try some leather work. Kate As your photos show, changing brands of tools introduces variables just as changing sizes does. One thing I haven't seen mentioned in the other responses is that changing to a smaller size beveler will require a change in strike. You can strike the larger beveler relatively hard and move the 1/2 tool space and cover most of your tool marks. The force of your strike is spread over the width of the tool face. A smaller beveler will focus the same amount of force in a smaller area, causing a deeper impression and more noticable "edge" marks. Edited September 22, 2007 by CitizenKate Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
CitizenKate Report post Posted September 22, 2007 I just drool every time I look at Bob's bevelers. Maybe next year I can afford to get some. *sigh* Great articles... thanks for sharing! Definitely going to spend some quality time on those! Kate There is a lot of great advice here. Another place to look is on Bob Beard's website. He did a tutorial on bevelers, and another on matters and backgrounders. Lots of good info in these. http://robertbeardtools.com/bevelertutorial.html http://robertbeardtools.com/educational.html Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Roger Report post Posted September 22, 2007 i was told you should move the tool about 1/4 of the total width of the tool with each strike. a bevel is crowned at the center and that is what should be making the impression. i use the same weight maul for all my tooling (24oz) and just vary how hard i hit the tool depending on the size of the tool Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Roger Report post Posted September 22, 2007 I just drool every time I look at Bob's bevelers. Maybe next year I can afford to get some. *sigh*Great articles... thanks for sharing! Definitely going to spend some quality time on those! Kate i hear they are the best! my biggest problem is... if i have the money to buy a couple tools, i want them right away. i just don't want to wait for months to get a tool. i've been very happy with my barry king tools and intend to order a few more Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
