Leather binding stretching

[JeannieH]

Hi. I posted a topic before about finding a binder for the synchronized cylinder arm I bought.

so I have a binder installed..but my binding stretches after I sew. The opening of the attachment is 7mm...my tape is .6 mm..and the two lives of leather with the binding amount to a little over 4mm. So unless I don’t understand how they work..the attachment seems as though it should be big enough for my tape. The tape goes in easily. My scrap pieces also curve after sewing. Do I need to keep looking for another attachment or is something else the problem? The machine sees fine. I have a size 20 diamond point leather needle and the thread is serafil 20.

[Rahere]

If the issue's it not coming out flat, have a good look at the interlock of the threads. It may be that where they loop around each other in the hole isn't in the middle, but almost at the surface on one side. That's caused by a tension difference, with the curve pointing towards the side that's too tight.

[JeannieH]

1 hour ago, Rahere said:

If the issue's it not coming out flat, have a good look at the interlock of the threads. It may be that where they loop around each other in the hole isn't in the middle, but almost at the surface on one side. That's caused by a tension difference, with the curve pointing towards the side that's too tight.

Ok that could be an issue as well. I will take a look at it in the morning. I never adjust the bobbin tension..it’s been the same as it was when I bought it. I need to make sure I have the bobbin installed correctly too. First time having a side loading bobbin. 

[Constabulary]

Binders really can be tricky but you know that already . Here is my thought - You have a right angle binder so the binding material is bent by 90° when running through the binder and that causes friction between the leather and the binder. Meaning the binding material is pulled forward by the needle and foot and the friction is stretching the binding material and after the stitching the binding materials "relieves" and causes what you see in your 4th picture.

I´d make a longer strip of binding leather (I guess you make your own with a skiver) and pull it through the binder slowly (incl. the 90° bent) and see if it stretches / causes friction while pulling through. Just for testing Id try using  a bit of sewing machine oil on the leather surface and see if it reduces the friction but I do not know if oil affects for your fished product... so just testing.

Most economic thing I would try before ordering a custom made binder (f.i. from Atlanta Attachments) is either an inline binder or 45° degree binder. I think they will cause less friction but I do not know if they are suitable for your projects and your machine. Just a guess.

 

[Rahere]

As well...so the issue's that 6" of binding's stretching into 6.3" or something when sewn to 6" of substrate? I'd live with it and trim the excess once sewn. You'll find the same with fabric, it'll stretch more in one direction, which is why binding's cut on the bias.

[Rahere]

12 hours ago, JeannieH said:

Ok that could be an issue as well. I will take a look at it in the morning. I never adjust the bobbin tension..it’s been the same as it was when I bought it. I need to make sure I have the bobbin installed correctly too. First time having a side loading bobbin. 

You're not the only one! One of the reasons to do a test on some scrap of the materials.

[JeannieH]

I attached a picture of the tape before sewn and one after seen..didn’t stretch as much nor warp the scrap as much...go figure! It stretches a little bit normally it stretches more. The videos show me pulling the tape by hand and then sewing on the scrap..not sure why it did so well..guess because I was recording and the machine wanted me to look bad lol. 
 

Once you guys give me your thoughts on what you see still..I have one more problem lol..so the bag I want to make requires me to have the top part of the binding flush with the top of the bag..exposed. When I try starting with the body and binding tape flush..when I turn the wheel the binding moves toward me and down further from the top..so I’m not sure of the correct way to start and end in this case..probably simple but my brain is fried at this point. I attached a picture of the top of the bag so it makes more sense.

 

[Rahere]

Given you're pretty sure you're going to have spare on the binding, I'd suggest you go for overkill, with 1/4 " excess before you bring the bag in, and 1/4" or more on the tail. Unravel the thread in each tail, back to the bag by a stitch, and hold it well out of the way while you trim the excess binding flush. Then bury the excess thread by backsewing four or five stitches by hand, in saddle stitch. Cut flush and heat to lose the polyester stub back into the material.

[JeannieH]

29 minutes ago, Rahere said:

Given you're pretty sure you're going to have spare on the binding, I'd suggest you go for overkill, with 1/4 " excess before you bring the bag in, and 1/4" or more on the tail. Unravel the thread in each tail, back to the bag by a stitch, and hold it well out of the way while you trim the excess binding flush. Then bury the excess thread by backsewing four or five stitches by hand, in saddle stitch. Cut flush and heat to lose the polyester stub back into the material.

Ok I will give that a try! Thanks! 

[Constabulary]

So when the leather is stretching I´d use thinner binding tape (maybe you need a splitter or skiver) or find a binder that causes less friction or buy a custom made binder (I know prices hurt). But keep in mind that even custom made binders are usually made for just ONE specific operation. But you have to discuss that with the attachment makers. I think a small splitter for thinng the leather strips is probably the better idea (having future projects in mind) but thats up to you. There are many variants but these look nice and functional (random google finds)

https://www.leathercraftpattern.com/portable-leather-skiver-machine

 

 

 

 

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Leather-Paring-Peeling-Machine-Edge-Cut-Skiving-Shovel-Leather-Splitter-Tool/124112859905

 

 

 

Edited September 25, 2020 by Constabulary

[JeannieH]

10 hours ago, Constabulary said:

So when the leather is stretching I´d use thinner binding tape (maybe you need a splitter or skiver) or find a binder that causes less friction or buy a custom made binder (I know prices hurt). But keep in mind that even custom made binders are usually made for just ONE specific operation. But you have to discuss that with the attachment makers. I think a small splitter for thinng the leather strips is probably the better idea (having future projects in mind) but thats up to you. There are many variants but these look nice and functional (random google finds)

https://www.leathercraftpattern.com/portable-leather-skiver-machine

 

 

 

 

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Leather-Paring-Peeling-Machine-Edge-Cut-Skiving-Shovel-Leather-Splitter-Tool/124112859905

 

 

 

Thank you! I actually already have a skiving machine. A consew one.