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Everything posted by JeannieH

  1. Hi. I purchased these pricking irons when I first started leather working. I have used them no more than 10 times. They are in like new condition. I just don’t use them. I was doing a project where I wanted my hand stitching to look straight like my machine stitch. I believe the reverse are used for pricking the underside of thick leather also. The set is a 2 tooth and 8 tooth. I also have another wuta reverse 8 tooth I will include. Wuta sent me a replacement 8 tooth because the first one wasn’t sharp enough to my liking. I’m sure it could be honed or something or work just fine for someone else. $80 free shipping for the 2 tooth and two 8 tooth pricking irons. I would send a business PayPal invoice for payment.
  2. Ok those are good things for me to try. I have a sewing room outside (shares a door with a bigger workshop/tool shed) and it’s an insulated room with two windows...about 500 sqft. Maybe I can rearrange things to have my glue station in front of the window and open it when glueing..maybe a table can to blow out may help. I will look for a mask for the fumes as well. The water based glue is not good at all for glueing reinforcement to the base. Thanks for your suggestions and I will give them a try. Yes you are more than likely right. I will just have to work with what’s available here then.
  3. Ok yes I didn’t think about that. Well what would you guys suggest as next best? Right now I use Renia aquilim for holding parts together on the body of my bags..and weld wood contact cement for flying the base..it’s so stinky and I’m trying to replace it because I want to breathe freely while gluing and not getting high!
  4. Thank you. I did come across their website and emailed but never got a response. I will try again and update of I hear back from someone.
  5. Hi! I’ve been hunting for this Korean glue that I see used overseas. It isn’t sold online. Are there any Korean leather workers on here that can help me out? Or anyone else that knows the product! its called star bond 950(yellow one) and star bond b5(beige one). it looks so easy to spread from what I’ve sent and the consistency is very nice looking.
  6. Yes but I haven’t sewed the lining in yet. See..I have to have enough clearance from the outer foot when I sew the top of the bag for the lining..so if I stitch the holder onto the outside of the bag..I won’t be able to move the holder out the way of the outer foot when I come around to that part.
  7. The piece is already saddle stitched onto the bag. I’m just trying to close up the opening some so that you can’t see the reinforcement I have in the middle. So there is only one hole..I wouldn’t be able to back stitch it. I will attach better pics of what I’m trying to do. so I didn’t go all the way up with the saddle stitch to the area I’m Ryun to close up. The first pic shows what I’m trying to do..but with just the stitch on the ring holder and not going through the holder and the bag... I use vinymo #5 MBT thread for stitching
  8. I’m not sure what terms to use to explain but how do I stitch a single hole to reinforce sides of my ring holder? Do I use one needle or two? I’ve tried both but I’m still able to unravel thread so I’m not stitching it so that thread is knotting or locking right.
  9. Ok just saw your response! I will try that in the morning! Thank you for taking the time to explain it differently to me!
  10. Looks like this will do it for me. Thanks for you guys helping me. Looks like I need to add lacing on my learning list because there are so many beautiful decorative techniques out there.
  11. Ok. I understand what you are saying but I still don’t understand how to do it lol! I understand that in the picture of the bag I attached..they used one lace instead of halving the lace and using two ends...and that the part shown is actually the backside of the type of lacing technique...right? now..I need to figure out your instructions for doing it because I’m not completely understanding your wording for some reason.
  12. Ok! I will have to read what you typed a few times because right now it’s not clicking lol. If you find a video of someone doing what you are saying shoot me the link! Ok I will test it out.
  13. Here is a better picture. The bag has the name whip stitch in it. I don’t have the bag it’s an image off the Internet. Thanks. That does look similar! I will take a better look so I can try it.
  14. I want to do this type of lacing on my bag. But I cannot find a video with this specific look. Anyone out there can help me? I can’t tell if they used straight cuts or punched holes for this.
  15. Ok nice! I love the untreated leather!
  16. What leather did you use for the handle? Is it Vachetta?
  17. Ok thanks for the pictures. I don’t know how to draft my patterns on the computer..so I have to do everything on paper with a ruler. I’m not sure if I want to thread it down since it’s nice to be able to pull the lining out for cleaning...I guess..not sure if the processionals donut that way. I don’t have any expensive brand bags lol.
  18. I’m not sure I understand. I forgot to mention I’m talking about a drop in lining. Can you explain what you mean a little more?
  19. Does anyone on here have any tips for drafting the lining size for the bags? I want the lining to fit perfectly without that bunched up look..which looks low end to me. I normally do the lining pattern 1/16 inch smaller in height and take 1/16 off either side seam. But this doesn’t always work out how I want. Any suggestions?
  20. Thank you! I actually already have a skiving machine. A consew one.
  21. I attached a picture of the tape before sewn and one after seen..didn’t stretch as much nor warp the scrap as much...go figure! It stretches a little bit normally it stretches more. The videos show me pulling the tape by hand and then sewing on the scrap..not sure why it did so well..guess because I was recording and the machine wanted me to look bad lol. Once you guys give me your thoughts on what you see still..I have one more problem lol..so the bag I want to make requires me to have the top part of the binding flush with the top of the bag..exposed. When I try starting with the body and binding tape flush..when I turn the wheel the binding moves toward me and down further from the top..so I’m not sure of the correct way to start and end in this case..probably simple but my brain is fried at this point. I attached a picture of the top of the bag so it makes more sense.
  22. Ok that could be an issue as well. I will take a look at it in the morning. I never adjust the bobbin tension..it’s been the same as it was when I bought it. I need to make sure I have the bobbin installed correctly too. First time having a side loading bobbin.
  23. Hi. I posted a topic before about finding a binder for the synchronized cylinder arm I bought. so I have a binder installed..but my binding stretches after I sew. The opening of the attachment is 7mm...my tape is .6 mm..and the two lives of leather with the binding amount to a little over 4mm. So unless I don’t understand how they work..the attachment seems as though it should be big enough for my tape. The tape goes in easily. My scrap pieces also curve after sewing. Do I need to keep looking for another attachment or is something else the problem? The machine sees fine. I have a size 20 diamond point leather needle and the thread is serafil 20.
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