Camouflage Stamps

[Chris623]

Yup, yet another newbie question.

I'm working on my first sheath.  Sure making a lot of mistakes.  Some I can ignore and just go on.............some have caused me to hang the item on the "wall of shame" and start over.  (more of those than I'd like to admit!)

Anyway, on a sheath there are some "less-than-90-degree" corners on my sheath and I can't get close enough to the corner with my background tool to come in with a camouflage tool and do the blending.  (like the point, for example)  Do I just ignore those spots on the sheath or is there someway to alleviate that problem?  Do you have picture examples of how you handle "less-than-90 degree" corners?

[Chris623]

Wow!  69 views and no-one has a suggestion????? 

Edited October 19, 2020 by Chris623

[maxdaddy]

You may only need a few touches with a stylus to get a couple of dimples in the narrow area. I'd give something like that a try in a small area.

[Chris623]

Hmmmmm.  That's a thought.  Thanks.

[fredk]

Pictures help

[Chris623]

Well, haven't started it yet, so a drawing (extremely rough drawing) will have to suffice.

As you can see, I've 7 inside "corners" to deal with.

[fredk]

Which camouflage stamps and which backgrounder have you? Which are you going to use? The numbers on the handles would do for info.

Is your plan to use the camo along the border above and below the 'makers' stamp area?

I'm just trying to get a picture (in my head) of your design.

 

[Chris623]

The "squigglies" in my rough drawing are a Tandy #E294.  The only camouflage tool I have is the Tandy #C433.  The area adjacent to the maker's mark is flat.........no texture.  Of course, the sewed area has no texture.  I'm thinking a Tandy #C366 "might" allow me some texture back in those corners just so they aren't blank.

On my way to a Doctor's appointment, so will be off-line for several hours.

[HondoMan]

Chris, start in those corners first.  You can overlap the camo stamps in corners.  Once your corners are done, work from one corner to the other.  As always, get some wee scrap pieces and practice before you start on the actual sheath.

As a suggestion, what might suit and be a wee easier for you.  Rather than have your mark between    ( mark )     try....      ) Mark (     You might find your camo stamps have a proper fit and look.

 

Edited October 19, 2020 by HondoMan

[Chris623]

Not sure I understand your suggestion,  HondoMan.

Here is what I ended up with.  Just finished the back of the sheath.   Think I like it better than the front, but it is what it is.  Can't complain.......after all, this is my first sheath.  Hope they get better from here.  Oh, and I purchased a Tandy #F910 to do the corner stamping.  Subtle, but did just what I wanted.

The dark spots on the front of the sheath are from a water application..........not stains.

 

[HondoMan]

Your Camo stamps are huge, but it's no bad for your first sheath.

Chris, Don Gonzales uploaded a video about serpentine borders.  Give it a wee watch and you'll see what I'm on about with starting at the corners and working towards each.

On the other matter, what I was on about and what would have given an easier go on the camo stamps in the corner.  Looking at the back of the sheath, your maker's mark is in the center with a 'half circle' down and up.  My suggestion was to switch them.  This would offer easier corners, perhaps. 

Another few suggestions. 

The front:   Your stitch line.... start at the corner and top and work towards the middle.  Seems you cut one hole in half (at the top).  Also, don't tool to the edge (top).  It's no asthetically pleasing.  That edge should have a border of some type.  

Do you have a welt between the front and back?

Next, this is a personal thing to me, but I do no put screw rivets or press snaps on top of the blade unless the sheath is to be lined.  It will scratch the blade and if the metal in that wee screw is poor quality, it could rust.

The back:

It appears you have top grain or the junction with corium.  See how the flesh side looks rough and loose?  Use some saddle soap to press those fibres down.  That or use oil dye to dye the entire thing and use a good top coat.   

Lastly, a wee trick on your tooling window:  If you bevel the edge to be tooled and then....use the camo stamp, it will look stunning.  More importantly, your camo stamps will be straighter and deeper.

Again, you did well for your first go.

[Chris623]

Stuck with the size of the camo stamp for now..............it's the only one I have.

 

2 hours ago, HondoMan said:

maker's mark is in the center with a 'half circle' down and up.  My suggestion was to switch them.

Oh, I understand now.  Thanks.

It looks as if I messed up on my stitching holes because I punched them before I did my stamp work and the sheath stretched.  Had to cut it off and unfortunately the holes had to end up where they ended up.  Newbie mistake.

There are several welts, in fact.  There is a piece of leather covering the back of the stud so the blade won't be scratched.

Don't know the definition of "corium", but I'm assuming you mean the part of the flesh that is exposed above the opening of the sheath.  Since that picture I have slicked it down with Tragacanto.

I beveled the edge on the back before using my camo stamp.  Guess it wasn't deep enough.

 

Okay, I've answered all your critiques.  Thanks for all of them.  I admitted I knew there were mistakes.  Just didn't realize how many.  I'll do better next time.

[HondoMan]

@Chris623

Tooling and stamping.  Get yourself some tape.  I use a double-sided carpet tape.  Tape the leather and fix it to a piece of cardboard.  This will stop the stretch.  You can leave it when dyeing the leather.  Dyeing can change the size of the leather as well and the tape stops the dye from showing on the flesh side, if one does no plan to dye the flesh side.   The cardboard will also allow one to hammer a wee harder to make a better imprint from the stamp, beveler, etc.  This is handy with thicker leathers.

Corium?  Google leather grains and corium.  It's a layer of the leather.  Corium is the looser fibres closer to the flesh.  When your budget allows, buy full grain only.

Good on protecting the blade.  Well done!

 

[Chris623]

I used the tape method when doing the back.  (learned my lesson on the front)  Took measurements both before and after and the tape stopped the stretching.

[Retswerb]

5 hours ago, Chris623 said:

I admitted I knew there were mistakes.  Just didn't realize how many.  I'll do better next time.

This is great though, and I hope you know we’re all cheering for you. There’s lots to learn and just think of what you know now about making a sheath that you had never had reason to think about until now. Plus I suspect even this first sheath is going to turn out great.

[Chris623]

I never mind constructive criticism.  It's how I learn.  I never fear asking questions..............in fact I'm prone to ask far too many sometimes.