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I'm confused about the purpose of some of these products


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Thanks for all the clarification, YinTx.

I'm just gathering things as I go.  Don't have any antique yet, but was planning on paste.

I was only saying I'd wipe the leather with rubbing alcohol just because that's what my friend at the shoe repair told me to do. He said if there was any oil on the leather, the dye wouldn't penetrate uniformly.  I had already dyed the leather when he gave the advice, so it was a moot point.  I won't do that in the future.

So I should add a thin coat of Neatsfoot Oil to the leather before my Resist?

Chris

"All things are difficult before they are easy." 

                                          (Fortune Cookie Proverb)

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1 hour ago, Chris623 said:


Thanks for all the clarification, YinTx.

I'm just gathering things as I go.  Don't have any antique yet, but was planning on paste.

I was only saying I'd wipe the leather with rubbing alcohol just because that's what my friend at the shoe repair told me to do. He said if there was any oil on the leather, the dye wouldn't penetrate uniformly.  I had already dyed the leather when he gave the advice, so it was a moot point.  I won't do that in the future.

So I should add a thin coat of Neatsfoot Oil to the leather before my Resist?

NP.  I have a lot of antique, and I have migrated towards highlighter or gel antique.  Alcohol can remove impurities that may cause uneven dye, yes.  I've oiled before dye before as well with good results.  Not very often that I would consider not adding oil to veg tan leather.  Look forward to seeing your results, and consider experimenting on sample bits before you go after your project.

YinTx

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I just oiled it with Light Olive Oil.  Will wait until tomorrow to apply the Fiebings Pro Resist.  I need to make a trip to Tandy's to get some antique.  I get so many opinions on antique it's funny.  You say you've migrated to Gel and others tell me they've migrated to paste.  Guess it's just a personal opinion thing.  On my furniture, I used a thinned artist's oil paint................and few of my fellow furniture makers used that method.  Personal opinions...........and what you get used to.

Chris

"All things are difficult before they are easy." 

                                          (Fortune Cookie Proverb)

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Patience is not one of my more well known virtues.  I oiled the sheath with light olive oil 3 hours ago.  I watched a video a couple of weeks ago that mentioned "you'll think you ruined the piece when you oil it"........................the presenter was right. He also said to be patient and it'll go back closer to the original color over night.  We'll see.   I had my sheath dyed a really nice looking Saddle Tan and it's far............far..................................far from it now.  I'll try and quit looking at it until in the morning, but right now it's a huge disappointment.

Chris

"All things are difficult before they are easy." 

                                          (Fortune Cookie Proverb)

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Everyone has a slightly different technique, and method of antiquing and use of other products. You have to do a little experimenting and find out what works for you, then stick with your process. I use gel antique for dye, have for years because it works for me. I also use resolene for a resist, and top coat, but others use different products. Whatever works for you is the proper method, and you won't find that process unless you mess around a bit. That is what that big pile of scrap leather is for, and if you don't have any, most leather shops sell small chunks of leather cheap.

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Thanks, Bigfoote.

Chris

"All things are difficult before they are easy." 

                                          (Fortune Cookie Proverb)

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8 hours ago, Chris623 said:

I get so many opinions on antique it's funny.

Yes.  That is why I have so many different types now.  Paste, highlighter, gel, etc.  It really does just depend on the look you want for the project you are on, and how comfortable you are using each type.

As far as oil, a little bit goes a long long way.  I've seen folks literally douse things in it, but I prefer a very light coat to keep it from getting to soft and soggy.  You can't take it out.  But it will distribute evenly over time, so if the leather is thick, then the color will lighten up as it permeates further into the piece.  You'll have a better idea in the morning!

YinTx

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Speaking of oil, how's it look today @Chris623? Even if its still a little dark today, give it until tomorrow.

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Well, battlemunky, I had to put on my bathrobe and go out to the shop to check it, but it's better than yesterday.  Almost where I'd like it to be.  Should I wait for it to lighten up to where I want before putting my Resist on it?

Chris

"All things are difficult before they are easy." 

                                          (Fortune Cookie Proverb)

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3 hours ago, Chris623 said:

Well, battlemunky, I had to put on my bathrobe and go out to the shop to check it, but it's better than yesterday.  Almost where I'd like it to be.  Should I wait for it to lighten up to where I want before putting my Resist on it?

Depending on how heavy it went on it may need some time to absorb/disperse but its probably good. If you are able to handle it and not have oil transfer onto your hands it should be ok to put on some resist.

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