Members BdB Posted November 24, 2020 Members Report Posted November 24, 2020 Good evening - Im on a refurbing journey a 211G165 and continue to hit some issues - perhaps some earlier modifications by previous owners. Another challenge every day! Thank goodness for the expertise in this forum --- I need it again! I am trying to remove the upper arm shaft to address the stuck presser eccentric - may have to replace it. I have everything along the shaft loose and the shaft is moving OK and ready to slide out the face. I assume that the shaft must come out the face (left) of the machine (instead of handwheel side) because I can't access the set screw on the front bushing. Can someone verify this for me? Unfortunately the crank & shaft is blocked from coming out the face side by the upper presser bar bushing (see pic) -- and I cannot get the upper presser bushing (508246 on the diagram) out. See pics - versus the parts diagram it appears to be installed upside down. Can some one provide perspective? There is no set screw keeping it in (it's gone), yet it flat out won't budge. I've tapped it hard with a brass hammer but already have caused a little peening from hitting it and don't want to ruin it. Can someone verify for me that it's upside down? I'm at the point that I may cut it and pound it out so I can get the crank and shaft out. Advice is needed!! Thanks! Bruce Quote
Members Constabulary Posted November 24, 2020 Members Report Posted November 24, 2020 (edited) Why are you ripping your machine apart? Just for cleaning? Not necessary. Generally such a long bushing is not necessary so when there is no technical reason other than limiting the foot lift I would cut it down or leave it and continue w/o removing the upper shaft. Ripping a vintage machine apart can cause trouble such as damaging parts which are (probably) no longer available. So be careful. My 2 cents. Edited November 24, 2020 by Constabulary Quote ~ Keep "OLD CAST IRON" alive - it´s worth it ~ Machines in use: - Singer 111G156 - Singer 307G2 - Singer 29K71 - Singer 212G141 - Singer 45D91 - Singer 132K6 - Singer 108W20 - Singer 51WSV2 - Singer 143W2
Members BdB Posted November 24, 2020 Author Members Report Posted November 24, 2020 Thanks Constabulary -- I'm working to get the upper shaft out to remove the presser eccentric to free the ring from its flange -- which is also flat out stuck (covered in another post a couple days back) -- which is making it impossible to adjust the outer presser foot lift. I agree with you and I'm being as careful as I can and this is what's behind my questions to the forum. So far PB Blaster soaks, acetone, mineral spirits, tapping, and torch heat have had limited effect for me on this machine for some reason. If I can find a suitable upper presser bushing replacement I will consider something more aggressive - cut it or sacrifice it and get it out. But no -- I certainly prefer not to take this path. Do these upper bushings typically slide out more easily once the set screw is removed? I suspect this one was put back in (upside down?) and press fit somehow. Does anyone know if the needle bar is the same diameter in the 111/211 family (or clones) which might give me some options for an upper bushing replacement? I am challenged but enjoying the journey! Thanks all and please help with your perspective and knowledge! Quote
Members Constabulary Posted November 24, 2020 Members Report Posted November 24, 2020 (edited) But you know how to adjust the presser foot height on a 211, right? You need a screwdriver... The foot bar is the same diameter as on the 111 series. What I figured is that some Singer 211 (as well as some Dürkopps) have an extremely long brass presser foot bushing. IMO that's is just for limiting the foot lift (don't ask my why they did this) so even a 3/4" long bushing on top will be sufficient. If I were you I´d cut it down. Edited November 24, 2020 by Constabulary Quote ~ Keep "OLD CAST IRON" alive - it´s worth it ~ Machines in use: - Singer 111G156 - Singer 307G2 - Singer 29K71 - Singer 212G141 - Singer 45D91 - Singer 132K6 - Singer 108W20 - Singer 51WSV2 - Singer 143W2
Members BdB Posted November 24, 2020 Author Members Report Posted November 24, 2020 OK that's where I'm leaning. I'll keep the group posted. If it fails, I'll get it out the brute force way, and replace it with a 111W upper presser bushing. I have seen them online (but not the 211G bushing for whatever reason). Anyone know a good source for the 211G bushing? I'd rather stay original if possible. Also, here is the procedure from the 211G165 service manual that I've been using that led me to the frozen presser eccentric disk. Let me know if I'm missing something. Thanks again for your response and input! Quote
Members Constabulary Posted November 24, 2020 Members Report Posted November 24, 2020 (edited) right - just wanted to make sure... I guess the 211 brass bushing has wider outer diameter (not sure though). The bushing on the 111 is steel. I´l post a picture in a minute... EDIT: it has 13mm outer diameter - hope this helps. Edited November 24, 2020 by Constabulary Quote ~ Keep "OLD CAST IRON" alive - it´s worth it ~ Machines in use: - Singer 111G156 - Singer 307G2 - Singer 29K71 - Singer 212G141 - Singer 45D91 - Singer 132K6 - Singer 108W20 - Singer 51WSV2 - Singer 143W2
DonInReno Posted November 24, 2020 Report Posted November 24, 2020 Most things stuck together with old dried oil can be freed up with heat. Even loctite will soften well before the boiling temp of water. Heating until a drop of water just starts to boil is easy, safe on any heat treating, and usually hot enough. Point and shoot thermometers are relatively cheap if you do this a lot. In industrial settings, bearings are often heated to this temp as standard installation procedure. There is a lot of mass in that area that acts as a heat sink so it will take more heat than most people think. There is no need to heat back behind the big spinny bit - just heat the face until the backside comes up to temp. If you lived locally I’d bet lunch that this would free it up! I suggest looking at a few pictures or diagrams showing how pressed in bushings are removed...it’s usually quite simple to rig up - a piece of threaded rod, appropriately sized tubing and a small washer on one end and a large washer on the other. 89D440BE-A8AE-4127-836F-A9FF833080BC.webp Quote
Members BdB Posted November 24, 2020 Author Members Report Posted November 24, 2020 Wow I could try that. Thanks for the detailed suggestion! I'm surprised that it's pressed in. There's no set screw there...so... I agree on the heat but unfortunately I've had no luck with it on the eccentric disk or the main crank set screws. I've been using a small butane pencil torch to keep the flame focused and localized. There's a ton of oil and PB blaster I'm afraid will catch on fire. -- but I guess I can take it outside and bring out the big dog and use a map gas torch. Constabulary I am also measuring just under 13mm (12.58mm) on the upper presser bushing - .495" (1/2 inch -- I'd hope that would be a nice standard value to use). The presser rod measures .340 in or 7/32" (8.63mm). Quote
DonInReno Posted November 24, 2020 Report Posted November 24, 2020 To be honest I was worried at first that you were jumping into the deep end of the pool, but if you put as much effort and thought into reassembly this project will work out just fine. Here’s a fun catalog - it gives you an idea of what a sewing shop can order that we can’t get online. https://supsew.cld.bz/Superior-Sewing-Digital-Master-Catalog Quote
Members mk10 Posted November 24, 2020 Members Report Posted November 24, 2020 Your upper presser bar bushing is NOT upside down. I looked at my 211U and the bushing is oriented just like in your photo (cutout in lower portion). Quote
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