Singer 211G Upper Stuck Presser Bar Bushing - Looks backwards??

[DonInReno]

Here’s a link for restoring screw heads that are boogered up

 

[chrisash]

1 hour ago, DonInReno said:

To be honest I was worried at first that you were jumping into the deep end of the pool, but if you put as much effort and thought into reassembly this project will work out just fine.   

Here’s a fun catalog - it gives you an idea of what a sewing shop can order that we can’t get online.
 

https://supsew.cld.bz/Superior-Sewing-Digital-Master-Catalog

Have a look at the tread list it gives the Dia and Thread per inch for most machines screws, lots for Singer machines

[BdB]

Love the screw refurb video thanks DonInReno!     So far getting them out -- to be refurbed -- is the toughest challenge I've faced.   

Thanks MK10 or letting me know that the bushing is not upside down.  This was driving me nuts   The parts diagram shows it inverted for some reason.

I did try a full map gas torch on it to see if that would help and it did not unfortunately.   At this point I'll likely proceed to cutting it per earlier input from Constabulary.   All of the tinkering with it may have knocked it out of true.   As a backup I may drill or  cut & chisel it out of the mounting hole and mount a new 111W bushing -- secured with a set screw this time!

[DonInReno]

31 minutes ago, BdB said:

 

Love the screw refurb video thanks DonInReno!     So far getting them out -- to be refurbed -- is the toughest challenge I've faced.

One trick to getting these screws out is to use the best fitting 1/4” drive hex shank bit, grind it if you have to so there is good contact in the bottom and sides of the slot, then with bit in a 6” bit holder/extension to give it a sharp smacks with a hammer.  We don’t want to bend anything, just jar the screw a bit.  If that doesn’t work, add heat and try again.  If that doesn’t work Ive held the bit tight to the part with a c clamp (the type without a swiveling pad on the screw ).  Turning the screw bit with an end wrench while hammering the screw of the clamp will either break the bit, or break half the head off the screw, but it won’t cam out.   If the part can be held in a drill press vice, chucking a drill bit holder/extension in the chuck and using the feed lever to apply pressure while turning the chuck by hand is sometimes the least work.  
 

As with anything, developing a sense of feel for how hard you can twist things without making it worse takes practice.

 

Personally, I clean a lot with wd40 and don’t have problems with heat treated parts if  they are heated hot enough for the wd40 to smoke.   This is probably in the 300 degree range.  This is also in the safe range for not affecting the temper of the part but it’s quite easy to over heat, so I don’t recommend it to anyone.  Any screw or part heated enough to change color is essentially ruined.  

The picture shows some tempering colors - essentially any color change should be avoided, but short of that we’re well out of the heat range that would affect the part. 

[BdB]

Well thank you to all who have provided great input and knowledge today.  Coming off a total success for the issues I was facing.   I went with Constabulary's recommendation to go ahead and cut the upper presser bushing and I have broken through the bottleneck and am back on track.   Today's steps:

- I was able to cut down the length the stuck upper presser bushing successfully and create room for the crank to pass and  finally pull out the upper arm shaft so I could move on

- checked for fit/free movement for my presser rod - still OK!! No damage after the "haircut" and all that banging and blow torching 

-  finally got the arm shaft out and its attached components off including the stuck presser eccentric dial and flange

- and FINALLY to the root issue behind all of this - get the presser eccentric dial separated from the flange to free up the eccentric mechanism.   SUCCESS!  

In the process I have discovered that the needle crank friction/thrust washer cracked and needs to be replaced.   Hard to find apparently - wondering of there is a suitable substitute with a modern material like a sturdy oil resistant nylon washer or something like that.   Input is welcome and needed !!.

Also I discovered that the primary issue with the stuck eccentric dial was not really dried oil - at least in the end.   The flange's split collar that the dial sits on seems to have expanded and the fit was so tight it flat out would not move.   I will update my previous post requesting help with this with those observations.

Thanks again to all who are helping me out .   I took pics t give back - hopefully they can help another person in the future.

 

Ready to cut the bushing - trying to keep metal shavings rom getting into the machine.

 

After the cut - filed the burrs down later.  Crank and shaft coming out and just squeaks by the freshly cut upper presser bushing 

 

Here's a look with the crank and shaft removed.

 

Shaft out showing the components    The eccentric dial is still stuck hard to that flange...

 

Checked the fit and free movement of the presser bar -- Looks great.

 

An FINALLY got that  %$^#!!*& eccentric dial freed and separated after another hour of effort.  More work here before reassembly.

Edited November 25, 2020 by BdB