How do I use beeswax on my burnished edges?

[Leather20]

Over the last year or so I've been trying to perfect my burnished edges. I've read a lot of people who use beeswax after they burnish their edges but I can't seem to make it work for me. My process is, edge dye, let dry and gently buff,  light water burnish, burnish with Gum Trach, and seal. When trying to use beeswax I do it right after the burnish with Gum Trach and I've experimented with sealing or not. My problem is the wax doesn't seem to apply well and after it gets worked on it becomes a hard top coat that will crack and flake. I've tried just rubbing the wax on and also softening the wax before applying it. Any help would be appreciated!

[Hardrada]

I'm also interested in this, as I haven't been able to use/apply it successfully either.

Last time I tried, I rubbed some beeswax on a portion of a sling edge and burnished with canvas: 'twas the first time it seemed to apply well. Whenever I try burnishing wax with a slicker it just doesn't work.

Edited December 8, 2020 by Hardrada

[Leather20]

Agreed, I had a small amount of success using a hand-held dermal powered burnisher but a got a large amount of wax build-up on the burnishing tip. Cleaning that was a nightmare. I've tried using cloth but my buffing cloths are old cotton rags.

[mike02130]

Most  folks use a filleteuse machine and melt it on.  Rubbing hard wax is just rubbing hard wax gunk. build up.  Use a hot butter knife or the back of a spoon heated up.  Try paraffin rather than bee's wax.

[chiefjason]

I make my own paste that's about the consistency of new shoe polish, or maybe a touch firmer.  It's beeswax, parrafin, and neatsfoot oil.  Heat it all up, mix it, and cool it.  Check consistency.  I rub that softer wax on the edges to just fill in the small gaps burnishing does not get.  Friction from your finger will work it in.  Edge, wet sand (250 and 800), dye, burnish with tokonole, wax, finish.  

[Matt S]

Maybe beeswax is different on this side of the pond but I wouldn't call it hard at room temperature. You can push your thumbnail into it without much trouble.

Rub a little onto the edge (with the bar), then a vigorous rub with a rag to remove the excess. Heat from a paint gun or from a burnishing wheel improves penetration but isn't necessary if speed isn't an essential factor. Heat is the key.

@Leather20 it's not clear, are you using something after the gum trag to seal the edge? If you're using a resin like edge kote or tan kote that will prevent the wax from penetrating.

[Squilchuck]

I agree with Mike. I use it all the time. Edge, dye, burnish with water and bar saddle soap, dry, burnish with light coat beeswax rubbed on at room temp.  I use canvas to burnish but sometimes a hard burnisher at saddle soap stage. Use lots of rubbing to generate heat. I've used parafin too but beeswax is better. I think the gum trag seals up the edge and the beeswax doesn't set into the leather. Using a hard wood burnisher doesn't seem to work well - just gums up the burnisher. --John

[Leather20]

On 12/8/2020 at 6:10 AM, Matt S said:

Maybe beeswax is different on this side of the pond but I wouldn't call it hard at room temperature. You can push your thumbnail into it without much trouble.

@Leather20 it's not clear, are you using something after the gum trag to seal the edge? If you're using a resin like edge kote or tan kote that will prevent the wax from penetrating.

I don't think the beeswax is different, it isn't rock hard or anything at room temperature. You can still make indents or wax thread by pulling it over the wax. Although I do use wax from my dad's bees.

I also apologize for not being clear, if I use beeswax I don't seal the edge before applying the beeswax. If I don't use wax I seal the edge after the gum trag, normally something like a tan coat or edge coat.

On 12/8/2020 at 9:09 AM, Squilchuck said:

I agree with Mike. I use it all the time. Edge, dye, burnish with water and bar saddle soap, dry, burnish with light coat beeswax rubbed on at room temp.  I use canvas to burnish but sometimes a hard burnisher at saddle soap stage. Use lots of rubbing to generate heat. I've used parafin too but beeswax is better. I think the gum trag seals up the edge and the beeswax doesn't set into the leather. Using a hard wood burnisher doesn't seem to work well - just gums up the burnisher. --John

Thanks, I will find some canvas and using the wax after a light water burnish. I'm curious as to why people use saddle soap or glycerin to burnish?

[tsunkasapa]

I just rub it on the raw edge and rub it down with canvas. You want to melt it into the fibers. Doing anything else first keeps that from happening.

[Lobo]

Here is the method I used for many years (veg-tanned holsters, belts, accessories):

1. Burnishing was done after edges were dressed, beveled, all dying completed.

2. Burnishing tool was a hard felt wheel/polishing bob mounted in a drill press, turning at ~1700RPM

3. I used beeswax and paraffin (50-50 mix poured into muffin-size cakes), rubbed cold onto all edges, then burnished on the hard felt wheel. This creates heat by friction, melting the wax and forcing it into the exposed edge fibers of the leather, and polishing the edge to a gloss. The felt polishing bobs typically last for 50-100 items, and the cost was about $0.30 each (purchased in bulk quantities).

Most items (holsters, belts, etc) took about a minute to apply the wax and about 2-3 minutes to complete the burnishing. Approximately 20 pieces per hour. Short version: an excellent result with minimal time and effort.

After burnishing I applied the sealant and finish coatings.

The waxes provide a very good seal of the edges and resist abrasion and scratching in use. As I make this entry here I am wearing a belt and holster that were made over 10 years ago and have been used nearly every day since, and both still look very good.

43 years in the business, usually 1500-2000 products completed per year for delivery to customers in all 50 US states and 33 other countries. The only way of getting it done (30-40 items every week) was by learning to work smart instead of working hard!

[Rahere]

I think part of the problem's you're gilding the lily. Applying anything to something means it has to key on. Raw leather, no problems, plenty of grain pores. Burnished leather, you've started to compact things. I'd suggest you get whatever dressing in first. then burnish it. Most industrial coating wants to be the end of the story, and works by giving nowt for any dirt or anything else to get a grip on to. You'll need to abrade it for further layers.

[Hardrada]

What paraffin wax are you guys using? Is it the same kind that's used for candles?

I'm trying to find the right kind/brand in Canada.

[Northmount]

5 hours ago, Hardrada said:

What paraffin wax are you guys using? Is it the same kind that's used for candles?

I'm trying to find the right kind/brand in Canada.

Find it in canning, household and candle making supplies.  https://www.amazon.ca/s?k=paraffin+wax+for+candles&crid=TAH6TVIB5MOT&sprefix=parrafin%2Caps%2C305&ref=nb_sb_ss_sc_9_8

 

[Lobo]

Yes, basic paraffin wax. Basic beeswax. If you are going to be melting and blending waxes you must be aware of some dangers and precautions.

Waxes in melted form can result in flammable vapors which can be ignited by any exposed heat source,. This is not something to be done indoors!

A safer way of melting and mixing waxes is to place the waxes into heavy duty zip-lock plastic bags, immerse the bags into a large pot of boiling water until the waxes flow, then pour into molds (aluminum muffin pans work well).

The best method is to find a candle-maker with a wax melting machine to melt and blend your waxes for you. Quick, clean, easy, no flammable fumes. The lady I found used a machine with 10 lbs. capacity, took about 30 minutes start to finish. 5 lbs. paraffin and 5 lbs. beeswax made about 80 muffin-sized cakes of wax, each cake of wax would do 100 or more burnishing projects. Last batch she prepared for me was done after making vanilla-scented candle wax in her machine, so my finished wax had a pleasant scent (when polishing on the wheel the shop smelled like cookies baking).

When I retired and sold the business I think I sent along about 20 lbs. of burnishing wax in ready to use form, probably a 10-year supply.