SINGER 153W 102 ADJUSTMENT

[FRANKPKNY]

I AM TRYING TO TIME THE THREAD TAKE UP  LEVER ON A CYLINDER SINGER MACHINE 153W 102. I DON'T SEE ANY WAY TO DO THIS ADJUSTMENT?  CAN ANYONE HELP ME?   

Edited December 14, 2020 by FRANKPKNY

[Constabulary]

Have you checked the manual for your machine? At the end there often is a section for mechanics and adjusters.

If you don´t have one I have attached it here:

Singer 153w 1 54w101.pdf

[FRANKPKNY]

Thank you the instruction book will be a big help !    I have been tied up working on a V* Flathead engine and have not been able to get back to this when I do I'll take some photos or a video .   Frank

[FRANKPKNY]

[FRANKPKNY]

That photo is of the thread I'm using with a 135x17  130/21 needle   which may be the incorrect needle class the book calls for a class135x7   I wonder what the difference is? 

[Wizcrafts]

The thread in your photo is V138. This calls for a minimum size 22 needle. I find that a #22 needle does the job in soft materials, but not veg-tan leather. For that I have to use a #23 needle to poke a big enough hole to pull the knots up without cranking the tension down almost all the way.

The needle system 135x17 is a round point for cloth, webbing, Velcro and vinyl. If you sew leather you should use System 135x16 - with a chisel, diamond, or tri-point shaped tip.

[FRANKPKNY]

Worked on the machine all day today!  I Tried different needles #23,  And a 135x 16 TRI  leather #24 with that same thread. Even tried a much lighter thread.  I started by going back and following every adjustment from the book. Started at the timing belt and went through every step as the book required.  All to no avail.  Tried convertable top material, light oil tanned leather I get the same reaction no matter what. I installed a new tensioner and tried adjusting it many different ways. As per the book, no good. The bottom loop is just to large, I don't know the difference it would make , the book calls for 135x7 class needles.   I'm using 135x17  21 and #23 and tried 135x16TRI #24. Am I just using the wrong needle?  I'm going to order some tomorrow. When I ordered the 135x16TRI I told them the machine I had and the thread I had that's what they sent me. (Miami sewing machine Co.)     The top side is almost good but the bottom is terrible.   I ran stiches by hand and watched the tensioner arm going up it just seems it's not pulling the thread hard enough,  but when I tighten the spring and the tension to almost the breaking point  it doesn't seem to help much , It looks to me that the bottom loop is way to big .   

[FRANKPKNY]

I even put the #21 135x17 needle and the 138 thread in my antique Singer Patcher and it ran fine. I don't know where to go from here? 

Edited December 21, 2020 by FRANKPKNY

[Wizcrafts]

Watch the check spring on the take-up stroke. If it shudders as the lever pulls the thread, then you hear a slight click in the bobbin area, the top thread may be getting hung up on the way past the bobbin case. To fix this you may have to adjust the lever that pulls back the bobbin case so it lets go sooner, and/or lower the hook in the hook saddle assembly. This is tricky, if even doable.

[FRANKPKNY]

What's your opinion on the needle size?   I found a chart and the 135x17 is definitely a much longer needle length to top of eye 38.9 verses a 135x7 being 33.9 I even tried shorting a needle to no avail.

  

[Wizcrafts]

7 hours ago, FRANKPKNY said:

What's your opinion on the needle size?   I found a chart and the 135x17 is definitely a much longer needle length to top of eye 38.9 verses a 135x7 being 33.9 I even tried shorting a needle to no avail.

  

The Singer 153 series uses the same needles and bobbins as the 111 series. They are the common walking foot System 135x16 and 135x17. The needle bar stroke depends on these lengthy needles to complete its downstroke without hitting the presser and vibrating foot. Substituting and lowering the needle bar height for a shorter needle system will cause the bottom of the needle bar to hit the feet when sewing at maximum thickness, or when the feet are lifted to remove the work and release the top thread tension. Use the correct needle system and time the hook as per the specs. If the needle's eye is too high at pickoff time, loosen and lower the needle bar to retime it.

[FRANKPKNY]

I realize this however the book Singer for the 153W 102 says use a 135x7 needle which is shorter when i set up the shorter needle I still get the same problem. The thread spring adjustment doesn't seem to make any difference where I set it ! I have tried more tension up and down with the stroke as well. The bobbin case is slightly high but its not adjustable, is it possible to have the bobbin case inserted 180 Degrees off?  the thread pull happens at the very top of the take up lever stroke which I believe to be correct. it seems that the needle when down leaves far to much thread st the loop than what is needed?

Edited December 21, 2020 by FRANKPKNY

[FRANKPKNY]

I can use the needle thread combination on my Singer Patcher and it works fine? 

[ljk]

I have been down that road on a 155w.  Follow the advice of the experts, make sure it is timed "right"

Now drentch hook with oil and put in #69 thread.  If it sews correctly than do the following.  Remove

hook "not carrier" those tiny jib screws have wings, check if there is any debris, inspect hook for any

burrs make sure everything is smooth! Now remove tension spring and make sure thread path is

clean and tension spring works properly.  I use super glue on jib screws/screw driver to assemble.

If that machine -doesn't work let me know I have another idea (crazy)

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

[Wizcrafts]

5 hours ago, FRANKPKNY said:

it seems that the needle when down leaves far to much thread st the loop than what is needed?

Cut out the excess slack via the check spring adjustments. The first adjustment is to set the lower travel via the movable curved bracket under the check assembly. The further down the spring moves, the lower the slack. Fine tune the action with the position of the curved slot by loosening the small set screw in the curved slot. Moving the disks clockwise tightens the thread. Moving them counterclockwise loosens the thread.

[FRANKPKNY]

Success at last,  I readjusted  everything  found play in the feed dog, corrected that and installed a new one as well as the complete tensioner , which was well worn and grooved. 

The hook timing was a major issue, as I was not setting the needle properly, on watched the video  on the Consew  225 and saw the error on my part.  I was not setting the timing properly.   the four center lines on the left photo is what I now have, the four center ones two front two back  side.   The photo on the bottom is what I started with. 

Edited December 22, 2020 by FRANKPKNY

[FRANKPKNY]

I would like to thank all for the help!     I can't sell any machine till I know it works properly.  What would be a fair price for the Machine and table l