What do I need to start? New and looking to make some bags and wallets.

[Gui]

Hi Everyone,

I've been thinking about starting leather working as a new hobby since I'm home most of the time these days and wanted some pointers on what tools and materials I should get for making wallets and bags for my friends.

I took a took at a few post before this and see that there are some specific recommendations but would love some more insight on what you guys would recommend or if I should look for some second hand tools to get a feel for it.

At the moment I'm thinking of starting a project making an abrAsus small wallet I've seen online recently but due to shipping restrictions I'm unable to get my hands on one so I thought I'd knock out two birds with one stone.

Thank you in advance for your input.

 

Link: abrAsus Small Wallet

https://srcc.store/products/abrasus-small-wallet

[Tugadude]

Welcome to the forum!  If you look, you'll find some posts where folks have compiled lists of what they think are some good "starters".

Here's an example, there's dozens more...

My advice is to not go overboard and buy things which you'll end up not needing.  The list of basic tools for leatherwork can be very short in order to get by until you encounter specific needs.

You'll want a sharp knife (a cheap razor knife with snap-off blades is fine to begin with)

I assume you'll be sewing by hand?  Invest in some diamond stitching chisels and then go watch some videos from Nigel Armitage on youtube.  He'll show you the basics and if you pay close attention and practice, you'll be surprised at your results.

I recently bought these irons and I really like them.

https://www.springfieldleather.com/Craftmaster-3mm-Diamond-Point-Stitching-Chisel

Springfield also sells some nice thread called Rhino Thread at a very affordable price.  It will probably work better with the 4mm version of the irons I linked above.

For needles, John James Harness Needles are the type to get.  They come in various sizes to suit the size of hole and size of thread you'll be using.  The basic idea is to have a thread big enough to fill the hole but not so big that it looks "chunky".  Narrow thread in large holes looks just as bad.  So choose appropriately.

You'll want a cutting surface.  A cheap chopping block made from PTFE is a good start.  You can find cheap ones in department stores.  

A hand burnisher is important for creating attractive edges.  Some burnish with plain water, others like gum tragacanth, some prefer saddle soap and still others use Tokonole. 

If you are into carving and stamping, there are lots of threads here that discuss them.  

Look around the forum.  Like I said, there are dozens of threads pertaining to your question.  Might take a minute, but you'll learn a lot in the process.

[Gui]

Hi @Tugadude,

Are the difference between the 3mm and 4mm the size of the hole it creates and would it better to get the set?

I took a look at the list/link you provided for beginning tools but it seems to be a lot of different pieces so it's a bit overwhelming for me. Would it be recommended to get most of those or could I get by with just buying what I need to make a wallet first and build up my tools later on?

I currently have a few tools from building plastic models such as knives, files, and self healing cutting mats.

From what I see so far I'm think I would still need the following to make a wallet. But still not 100% confident nor know which brand I should be looking into for quality.

Diamond Chisel

Mallet

Stitching needles

Glue + Applicator

Clamp

Leather

Thanks for the input again!

[Tugadude]

Your list looks pretty good.  I will respond in greater detail tomorrow.

[chrisash]

You can spend $50 on a set of tools on Amazon which will do most things and also include some items you will never use, alternatively you can spend $50 on a top line tool that may last a lifetime especially if you decide never to continue with leather work

Buy a cheap kit off amazon and learn the basics on the understanding that over time you will replace a lot of the items when your skill levels improve

The old saying buy once etc can work out very expensive waste of money if you don't know what tools are better and or give up the new hobby after 3 months

[zuludog]

This sort of question crops up regularly on this forum, so before you buy anything do some homework -

Read old Threads in the Getting Started and Tools sections of this forum

There is a lot of information on YouTube. Search for videos on 'beginners tools for leather work' and 'how to make wallets' or bags, or anything else you fancy; you'll see the sort of things that other people use, and how they are used

The same techniques are used for most items of leatherwork, so look at videos on edge finishing/burnishing; saddle stitch, skiving, etc.

I also have some tools from model making. A modelling knife is a bit too light for anything other than thin leather, but a Stanley/utility/box cutter knife is good enough; watch Ian Atkinson videos, he does most of his work with a Stanley knife. Sandpaper or a  sanding stick can be used for edge finishing

Geordie Leather has 15? videos aimed at beginners

One thing you'll notice is that there are lots of variations in tools & methods, with each leatherworker coming up with similar, but slightly different variations. Watch, practice, and gradually you'll work out your own methods

Your list is OK, but here are some comments -

John James Saddlers Harness Needles, Item code L3912 are some of the best, and not that expensive, get them from Rocky Mountain Leather Supply 

Thread - linen is traditional, and some people prefer the way it feels/handles. Synthetic is stronger and can be finished off by heat sealing the ends. I would start off with synthetic 0,6mm for general work

Ritza 25 braided polyester is very popular. It has a picture of a tiger on the label, so it is often called Tiger Thread. The disadvantage is that it is normally only available in large reels, so it is expensive to buy into. However RMLS have rewound it into shorter lengths for hobby use

RMLS stock other thread, including the Chinese Yue Fung under their own 'Twist' label. 0,55mm & JJ 002 needles for general work, and 0,45mm & JJ 004  needles for finer work

But perhaps American members can recommend other suppliers

A steel ruler for measuring & cutting

A scratch/round awl for marking out patterns and temporarily enlarging stitching holes without damaging them or the thread; and various other poking & prodding jobs. A cheap one from Tandy is quite good enough

Beeswax for lubricating the prongs of stitching chisels and waxing thread

To answer your question, the size of a stitching chisel - 3mm, 4mm etc -  refers to the distance between the points, and within each make the size of the hole is about the same. An exception is Tandy Craftool with the black finish, they show the distance between the sides of the prongs, so the distance between the points is a bit more e.g. their 4mm is about 5,5 mm between the points

[Tugadude]

You've gotten some good advice in the last two posts.  I would add to the list a carpenter's square.  You can find small, metal squares in the hardware store cheap.  They are good for checking for squareness and also as a straight edge for cutting.

You may already own one and if so, bonus!  There are a number of basic tools that can be helpful in leatherwork.

[zuludog]

14 minutes ago, Tugadude said:

You've gotten some good advice in the last two posts.  I would add to the list a carpenter's square.  You can find small, metal squares in the hardware store cheap.  They are good for checking for squareness and also as a straight edge for cutting.

You may already own one and if so, bonus!  There are a number of basic tools that can be helpful in leatherwork.

Yes, a square is very useful, some would say essential. Nigel Armitage is an acknowledged expert, with many videos. You will notice that he pays a lot of attention to precise, methodical work and the preparation of patterns & templates. Even if you don't want to make one, watch his videos on making pouches, they are a masterclass

Jo from JH Leather is another expert, with clear, precise work and measuring, including using a square. She is a trained saddler, so uses the traditional method of sewing with pricking irons and an awl. It takes some practice to do this method, so you could follow her general advice, but make the holes with a stitching chisel - that's why they were invented.

When I have a wallet or a knife sheath, or most other items to make, I first make a mock - up from stiff card like cereal packets fixed with tape/glue/staples. This gives me an idea of what the finished item will look like; the amount of leather I'll need and it's alignment/arrangement on the large piece of leather; the sequence of construction & assembly. Yes it takes a bit longer to get there, but old cardboard is a lot cheaper than new leather!

[Grumpymann]

Strop (easy to make), polishing compound, good lighting, grid ruler, straight edge at least 2 wing dividers.

[zuludog]

15 minutes ago, Grumpymann said:

Strop (easy to make), polishing compound, good lighting, grid ruler, straight edge at least 2 wing dividers.

Yes, make a strop from oddments of wood & leather. It doesn't need to be precision carpentry, something about 3" X 15" is OK. 2mm veg tan leather would be my choice, but in practice almost anything will do. There are loads of videos on YouTube, and it's just about the easiest piece of leatherwork you can do. Get some proper stropping/honing compound; green chromium dioxide is as good as any, a small bar will last for ages, and it's not that expensive. Even new Stanley knife blades work better when they've been stropped

You will need something to mark a stitching line parallel to the edge of the leather. A stitching groover is often used, but that weakens the leather as it removes some of the best, top surface. Instead use dividers. They just mark a line by depressing the surface slightly. They should not have absolutely needle sharp points; the idea is to mark the surface of the leather but not to pierce or scratch it

[Gui]

Thanks for the input. I went to pick up some essential tools and some leather this morning at Tandyleather to get me started. I'll list what I got below.

I still need to pick up a Chisel, mallet, needles, and thread to have all the minimum tools. Other than that I think I'm about ready to get into it? I'm considering a clamp that can attach on to my table but I guess I can decide on that later on.

 

What I picked up at Tandyleather:

Scratch Awl

Saddlemaker's Groover

Edge Beveler

Multi-Size Slicker

Adhesive

Smooth Grain Leather

 

[Tugadude]

Regarding a mallet, you can get by with a cheap one to begin with from Harbor Freight or similar.  I purchased one of those hammers that features both rubber and plastic faces, it actually has two different striking surfaces and interchangeable heads.  Cost me under $10.00 and it is fine for most of what I do.

If you decide to begin stamping, then you'll want a real leatherworker's mallet for best results.

[Aven]

If you are looking for a maul.  Checkout wrising.com.  They have mauls that have cosmetic defects for about $30 for a 2lb maul.  They carry other items that might interest you.  I can only speak to the maul.  I got mine about 4 years ago and am still very happy with it.

[JLSleather]

Good to see the 'new guy' remembering to budget in LEATHER.  I'm not kidding -- TOO many times I've seen people (sometimes here) spend money on mallets, knives, "maker stamps", and such... and not have any money set back for LEATHER (tip: you can't work leather if you don't have leather).

I seem to be the dissenting opinion around here re: round knives and mauls.  I'm sure they are "good" and have their place, just convinced that not everybody has need of them.  Like a cantle pliers ... indispensable to the saddle maker, pretty much useless to the wallet guy.  Same principle - expecting fairly heavy snow today here.  The ugly old truck with the blade on the front is worth more today than the Mercedes.  Shiny is okay, IF AND ONLY IF it does the job at hand.

I like rawhide mallets.  Relatively cheap, very effective, and will last for years.  You can get mallets (or mauls) with replaceable heads, but I never have - doesn't seem worth the trouble to assume those will still be available in 10 years when I need new ones   Each his own, but I started with a Garland rawhide mallet because that's what somebody said I needed and I didn't know otherwise.  That mallet stood up to YEARS of tooling HOURS EVERY DAY... before I replaced it for under $30.

I agree that Harbor Freight is the leather man's friend.  Utility knife is like $4 - blades are 25¢ and don't need to spend time sharpening it.  Square, 6 foot straight edge, and angle marker are good price there too.

At some point, you might consider a drill press (harbor freight has a low-res version, or watch craigslist / local sales).  These are great for burnishing, MAKING your own burnishing tools, even punching stitch holes. Oh, speaking of stitch holes... you might want to add a

STITCH SPACE MARKER (sometimes called an "overstitch wheel") This one is off the tandy site, but anything similar works (note, you "could" mark your stitching with a set of dividers, but .... not optimal)

 https://tandyleather.com/collections/tools/products/craftool-spacer-set

[Tugadude]

I just remembered this video.  Ian Atkinson puts out some wonderful content.  Might be of some help.  There are also other people on youtube that list their suggestions.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VTfMRaVyCd4

 

 

Edited December 30, 2020 by Tugadude

[AndrewWR]

Recommended viewing on the subject:

 

https://www.ianatkinson.net/leather/videos.htm   He has excellent how-to videos including a couple that talk you through the basic tools.

 

https://www.youtube.com/c/HahnsAtelier/videos  Also excellent, but with less explaining and more emphasis on just watching him work. Check out his guide to 10 essential tools.

 

https://www.youtube.com/c/NigelArmitage/videos Lots of tool reviews plus excellent tutorials on stitching technique.

 

Spend a few hours learning how various craftsmen do it then think about what tools you want (need).

 

Its also as well to remember that a lot of the specialist tools of leatherwork are designed to speed up operations that can be accomplished more laboriously, but satisfactorily, with tools most people already have and can repurpose. For example, I haven't bought a cobbler's hammer because I already had a panel beating hammer which has worked out just fine so far. My first skiving knife was a well honed 1" butt chisel. My scratch awl was a metalworking scribe. For cutting I still favour a Stanley knife. I have 2 Stanley knives: a standard blade and a hooked blade which is great for curves (I use it wherever a pro would reach for a clicker knife). I've had a lifetime of practice being accurate with a Stanley knife and it's generally not a bad idea to stick with tools you're comfortable with. 

Wheel knives, sold for cutting fabric, are excellent too, and cheaper than a decent quality head knife. Unless you're already skilled at sharpening and honing blades, my advice is to stick to disposable sharps until you know you're going to stick with this hobby, then think about investing in 'proper' tools. 

Good luck with your new hobby.