New to Leatherwork

[Loudcherokee]

Hello all! Been lurking here for awhile and finally decided to join up. 

I've been interested in leatherworking for a few months, and just recently decided to buy some supplies to get my foot in the door and try some things. It started with Googling "how to make a leather holster" and after watching one video I was already hooked. I would like to learn to make holsters, sheaths, belts, wallets, messenger bags/laptop bags, journal covers, etc. After literal hours and hours of watching YouTube and lurking here, making lists and notes, tool and supply shopping lists, I think I'm ready to start. I do have a few questions though that I didn't get clear notes on or was confused about. 

 

Stitching and thread selection - so far I'm going with John James needles, and I have size 004 with .6mm thread for wallets, journal covers, smaller items, and a size 002 with 1mm thread for holsters and belts. I have 3mm pricking irons for the .6mm thread, and 4mm pricking irons for the 1mm thread. Does this sound right? 

 

Edge burnishing - out of all the burnishing agents, gum trag, tokonole, saddle soap, 50/50 beeswax/parafin, when do you use which item? Like, what material or situation calls for one over the other? I've seen the same makers use different ones, with no explanation as to why, other than one video stated that using saddle soap allows dye penetration on the edges after burnishing where as gum trag will not. 

Belt hole spacing- ive read alot about this, and have decided on spacing for the belt holes, but what I cant seem to find is the measurement for the spacing of the holes at the buckle end. How far apart should the screw holes be, and how long is the slot for the buckle notch supposed to be, and how far away from the screw holes to start the slot? I know there are available templates, but I would like to create my own but can't find these measurements. 

 

Latches - I'm able to locate buckles and such, but there is a latch i have in mind for a project but I don't know what its called and my searches aren't finding what I'm looking for. Its a latch that would go on the end of a strap, and often is spear head shaped, with a small spring loaded button on top of the latch. This slides into the receiving part of the latch and the button pops up to latch it under a bar. I cant figure out what this is called. 

Makers mark - while I don't immediately plan to go into business, if I find that I enjoy this craft and want to start selling things, how do I make a stamp for my logo or makers mark? I already have some things in mind for this actually so if I start giving my projects away as gifts or whatever, I would still like to have a mark on it showing that I made it. 

 

Looking forward to learning alot and sharing my experiences along the way! 

 

LC

[JLSleather]

'Sup LC

Kaint really help with the thread you mention - we use machines so when we hand stitch (which we do) we use the same (machine) thread. $20 get you about a mile - seriously.  As for weight, your belts and holsters will be fine with 277 or 207, which IF I remember rightly is a 4-cord and a 5-cord.  Some say 207 breaks too easily for holsters, but to that I say "show me" (I'll send you some 207, you show us how you break it, and I'll buy you the heavier thread).

1 hour ago, Loudcherokee said:

aren't finding what I'm looking for. Its a latch that would go on the end of a strap, and often is spear head shaped, with a small spring loaded button on top of the latch.

sound like you mean TUCK-TITE clasp ?

https://www.google.com/search?q=tuck-tite&rlz=1C1GGRV_enUS763US763&tbm=isch&source=iu&ictx=1&fir=VxhRxufDc12TQM%2CG4U6OHy5uqbmoM%2C_&vet=1&usg=AI4_-kTc9HiZcNm1-fbZ1__akbjr9tKbbQ&sa=X&ved=2ahUKEwjd8qWT-vXtAhVDZ80KHfVsBQ4Q9QF6BAgJEAE#imgrc=VxhRxufDc12TQM

1 hour ago, Loudcherokee said:

how do I make a stamp for my logo or makers mark?

I had them made.  You could make your own out of about anything you want to use depending on how durable you want it to be, but I just sent the design to https://am-leathercraft.com/

He's across the water, so shipping isn't over night, but you don't care about that anyway.  I've seen LOTS of "maker marks" and this guy is as good as any and better than most. Alex made this one ... less than 1" across but highly detailed.

1 hour ago, Loudcherokee said:

Edge burnishing - out of all the burnishing agents

Uh, have you tried water?  Seriously, some these social media / u-tube / instagram babies will stand there telling you to get a good edge you have to do it on Tuesday while standing on your left foot facing south -- if that gets you to stay on their "channel" a bit longer.  Those videos ... are ADVERTISEMENTS (duh).

Saddle soap is what it sounds like.. SOAP.  When you cut leather, the EDGE absorbs (wicks) better than the surface.  This is why when we dye solid colors, we cut the piece over-sized, dye the whole thing, THEN cut out the shape, so we don't have darker dye on the edge than the rest of the project.  If you're working ONLY in black and brown shades - as some do - then it likely doesn't matter.  Course, the "custom" they go on about is very limited, too .... so each his own.

 

1 hour ago, Loudcherokee said:

Belt hole spacing- ive read alot about this, and have decided on spacing for the belt holes, but what I cant seem to find is the measurement for the spacing of the holes at the buckle end.

You're doing better than me - I've been doing this quite a while and STILL sometimes think about switching up the spacing  

Sometimes it helps to see what you DONT like. I do not like holes a full inch apart (some do).  Some of that is determined by the size of the strap and the buckle (small, light buckles get spaced a little closer).

As for the other end, I took a page (literally) from an old Stohlman book when I started out.  Again, there's some cases where it gets altered a bit, but as a rule, I still use that same basic layout.

More on belts, holsters, stuff, at https://www.jlsleather.com/information/ if you care to check that out.  Free, but we offer a full refund to anybody who wasn't happy with the info
 

Edited December 30, 2020 by JLSleather

[Leather20]

2 hours ago, Loudcherokee said:

Edge burnishing - out of all the burnishing agents, gum trag, tokonole, saddle soap, 50/50 beeswax/parafin, when do you use which item? Like, what material or situation calls for one over the other? I've seen the same makers use different ones, with no explanation as to why, other than one video stated that using saddle soap allows dye penetration on the edges after burnishing where as gum trag will not. 

This is the only section I can really help you with. For starting using water works fine although edges burnished with water don't tend to weather use quite as well. I use gum trag and I'm trying to learn to use beeswax although that is a work in progress. I'm also attempting to use an edge coat which will give more of the professional rubbery edge you find on high end bags and wallets. Gum trag is cheap and a good place to begin

[Loudcherokee]

2 hours ago, JLSleather said:

'Sup LC

Kaint really help with the thread you mention - we use machines so when we hand stitch (which we do) we use the same (machine) thread. $20 get you about a mile - seriously.  As for weight, your belts and holsters will be fine with 277 or 207, which IF I remember rightly is a 4-cord and a 5-cord.  Some say 207 breaks too easily for holsters, but to that I say "show me" (I'll send you some 207, you show us how you break it, and I'll buy you the heavier thread).

sound like you mean TUCK-TITE clasp ?

https://www.google.com/search?q=tuck-tite&rlz=1C1GGRV_enUS763US763&tbm=isch&source=iu&ictx=1&fir=VxhRxufDc12TQM%2CG4U6OHy5uqbmoM%2C_&vet=1&usg=AI4_-kTc9HiZcNm1-fbZ1__akbjr9tKbbQ&sa=X&ved=2ahUKEwjd8qWT-vXtAhVDZ80KHfVsBQ4Q9QF6BAgJEAE#imgrc=VxhRxufDc12TQM

I had them made.  You could make your own out of about anything you want to use depending on how durable you want it to be, but I just sent the design to https://am-leathercraft.com/

He's across the water, so shipping isn't over night, but you don't care about that anyway.  I've seen LOTS of "maker marks" and this guy is as good as any and better than most. Alex made this one ... less than 1" across but highly detailed.

Uh, have you tried water?  Seriously, some these social media / u-tube / instagram babies will stand there telling you to get a good edge you have to do it on Tuesday while standing on your left foot facing south -- if that gets you to stay on their "channel" a bit longer.  Those videos ... are ADVERTISEMENTS (duh).

Saddle soap is what it sounds like.. SOAP.  When you cut leather, the EDGE absorbs (wicks) better than the surface.  This is why when we dye solid colors, we cut the piece over-sized, dye the whole thing, THEN cut out the shape, so we don't have darker dye on the edge than the rest of the project.  If you're working ONLY in black and brown shades - as some do - then it likely doesn't matter.  Course, the "custom" they go on about is very limited, too .... so each his own.

 

You're doing better than me - I've been doing this quite a while and STILL sometimes think about switching up the spacing  

Sometimes it helps to see what you DONT like. I do not like holes a full inch apart (some do).  Some of that is determined by the size of the strap and the buckle (small, light buckles get spaced a little closer).

As for the other end, I took a page (literally) from an old Stohlman book when I started out.  Again, there's some cases where it gets altered a bit, but as a rule, I still use that same basic layout.

More on belts, holsters, stuff, at https://www.jlsleather.com/information/ if you care to check that out.  Free, but we offer a full refund to anybody who wasn't happy with the info
 

Yes! Those are the right clasps. Thank you for that. I couldn't find anything like it on Amazon. 

That is another thing that confuses me, is the size designations between different manufactures. Where one thread company will have a numerical size like you listed, and another will have a size in mm. Same with other tools, like a #2 punch but the punches i got have measurements in inches, ie 5/8th, 1/4, etc. 

The thread i ordered for the holsters is ritza tiger 1.0mm. Im not sure how this measures against the 207 you mentioned. Im also seeing sizes of 150d or something like that. 

 

I got a stitching pony and harness needles, and plan on hand stitching for a LONG time. No way I can justify a sewing machine, not even that little manual shoe cobblers machine that seems to be so popular. 

LC

[Loudcherokee]

1 hour ago, Leather20 said:

This is the only section I can really help you with. For starting using water works fine although edges burnished with water don't tend to weather use quite as well. I use gum trag and I'm trying to learn to use beeswax although that is a work in progress. I'm also attempting to use an edge coat which will give more of the professional rubbery edge you find on high end bags and wallets. Gum trag is cheap and a good place to begin

I did order some gum trag, saddle soap,  and the two waxes to start off with. The tokonole is pricey and I've only seen one guy using it. Ive also looked into edge coat but didn't order any this time around. 

LC

[fredk]

3 hours ago, Loudcherokee said:

Edge burnishing - out of all the burnishing agents, gum trag, tokonole, saddle soap, 50/50 beeswax/parafin, when do you use which item? Like, what material or situation calls for one over the other? I've seen the same makers use different ones, with no explanation as to why, other than one video stated that using saddle soap allows dye penetration on the edges after burnishing where as gum trag will not. 

I only use a beeswax/carnauba wax/nfo mix for edges. It seals the edges well, slicks the edges nicely, easy to apply and easy to buff smooth. I make sure the edge is well dyed before slicking but the odd time I've not and dye has been able to get to the leather despite the wax.

3 hours ago, Loudcherokee said:

Latches - I'm able to locate buckles and such, but there is a latch i have in mind for a project but I don't know what its called and my searches aren't finding what I'm looking for. Its a latch that would go on the end of a strap, and often is spear head shaped, with a small spring loaded button on top of the latch. This slides into the receiving part of the latch and the button pops up to latch it under a bar. I cant figure out what this is called. 

What you are looking for sounds like a 'tucktite' lock. Usually used on lightweight brief cases and such. Example below. There are variations of this

http://www.leprevo.co.uk/photos/tucktite.html

You can use it without the main lock section and just a bar

3 hours ago, Loudcherokee said:

Makers mark - while I don't immediately plan to go into business, if I find that I enjoy this craft and want to start selling things, how do I make a stamp for my logo or makers mark? I already have some things in mind for this actually so if I start giving my projects away as gifts or whatever, I would still like to have a mark on it showing that I made it. 

A makers mark is always good to have and use.

You don't say where you are located - please add this to your 'profile' so we can help you better. This is an international forum with members all over the world

I get brass stamps made by guys in China. I currently use two different makers. Both are quick and cheap. I alternate as they take long holidays!

My makers stamp, in brass, cost about £15. It 3cm across by 2 cm high. The maker took about 10 days total, from me sending the image until it dropped thru my letterbox. Post is a bit slower now, latest stamp took 18 days total

  

I believe we have a dedicated thread about makers stamps, where to get them made, prices et cetera

You can pay a lot or not for a stamp. Search out carefully.

 

 

 

[JLSleather]

Stamp_Maker.pdf

In no particular order or preference, here are some who have been recommended by members here.

[zuludog]

Welcome to the forum, and to the fun!. And nice to see you have done some homework on YouTube, that helps a lot

I can't help you with holsters, we don't do many of those in Britain; I expect American members will be the best for that. But something you will probably have found out by now is that the same techniques are used on many different items, and edge burnishing, for example is pretty much the same for all of them.

Speaking of edge burnishing, as you've seen, there are many variations, and i'm afraid it's just a question of choosing something to start with, and then working out your own preference. I started with gum trag, but now I use Tokonole

Your thread choice is OK, if perhaps a bit on the thick side. You could try dropping it down a bit, so you use JJ 004 needles with 0,4 or 0,45mm thread for thinner leather like wallets and JJ 002 needles with 0,6mm thread for general use. 0,8 & 1,0mm threads are usually only used with thicker leather, say 4mm, for items like heavy knife sheaths and axe covers. Still, it's not that urgent; see how you go on, and only change if you think you need to

Have you done any sewing yet? You might find threading JJ needles with 1,0mm thread a bit difficult, in which case you could use Tandy Needles #1195. In fact these are sometimes called Tandy Big Eye Needles

A scratch awl aka round awl is useful when sewing, especially when backstitching, for temporarily enlarging the hole without damaging it or the thread. It is also used for marking out a pattern and generally poking & prodding. A cheap one like Tandy #3217 is good enough 

Generally speaking you use stitching chisels with narrower gaps for thinner leather & smaller items. Stay with the 3 & 4mm and see how you get on

Doing the buckle end of a belt is tricky. I definitely suggest that you practice and make some mock ups from card, vinyl or cheap leather before making the real thing. Trying to 'think backwards' to get the pattern of holes & gaps for the fold - over part of a belt is confusing; practice and a template makes it much easier 

For most buckles on 1" to 1 1/2" belts a 35 to 38mm slot is about right, but practice on scrap. A slot/oblong/crew punch is expensive but you can manage at first by making a couple of holes with a punch then joining them

You will need to thin down - skive - the flesh side of the buckle turnover. Doing all that length freehand would be difficult, and a bench top skiver is expensive, so use a skiving knife with a disposable blade, or Search Google for a razor plane.

[Loudcherokee]

Thanks for the replies so far everybody. I updated my profile, im in Tennessee, USA. 

I'll give a list of the stuff I've accumulated: 

Scratch awl

Diamond awl

French skiving knife

Round knife

Mallets- one round, one mallet shaped

Burnishiers - rosewood kit that came with a standard size, a small tiny one, and a square block which i don't know what is for.

Stitching irons 3mm, 4mm

Bone folders

Hole punch kit

Exacto set

Stitching pony

Edge beveler - sizes 2 - 5

Stitching groover 

Tracing stylus

Swivel knife

20pc stamping tools

Poundo board

Thread zapper

Strap cutter

Green stropping compound

7 piece cocobolo burnisher bit for dremel

Divider wing compass

Wool daubers, foam brushes, acid brushes, portion cups, fiebings pro dyes chocolate and black, john james needles size 004 and 002, ritza tiger thread size .6mm and 1mm, gum trag, weldwood contact cement, saddle soap, resololene, neatsfoot oil

Self healing cutting mat

Plastic cutting/stamping board

Various rulers and measuring tools

6 square foot craftsman grade springfield veg tanned leather 7-9 ounce

Approx 5 sq ft 4oz pull up leather in bourbon brown

2 72" long 8/9 ounce 1.5" strips

Various snaps, rivets, Chicago screws, buckles, etc 

 

That about covers it for what I have either on hand or in transit. 

 

LC

 

[Loudcherokee]

12 hours ago, JLSleather said:

'Sup LC

Kaint really help with the thread you mention - we use machines so when we hand stitch (which we do) we use the same (machine) thread. $20 get you about a mile - seriously.  As for weight, your belts and holsters will be fine with 277 or 207, which IF I remember rightly is a 4-cord and a 5-cord.  Some say 207 breaks too easily for holsters, but to that I say "show me" (I'll send you some 207, you show us how you break it, and I'll buy you the heavier thread).

sound like you mean TUCK-TITE clasp ?

https://www.google.com/search?q=tuck-tite&rlz=1C1GGRV_enUS763US763&tbm=isch&source=iu&ictx=1&fir=VxhRxufDc12TQM%2CG4U6OHy5uqbmoM%2C_&vet=1&usg=AI4_-kTc9HiZcNm1-fbZ1__akbjr9tKbbQ&sa=X&ved=2ahUKEwjd8qWT-vXtAhVDZ80KHfVsBQ4Q9QF6BAgJEAE#imgrc=VxhRxufDc12TQM

I had them made.  You could make your own out of about anything you want to use depending on how durable you want it to be, but I just sent the design to https://am-leathercraft.com/

He's across the water, so shipping isn't over night, but you don't care about that anyway.  I've seen LOTS of "maker marks" and this guy is as good as any and better than most. Alex made this one ... less than 1" across but highly detailed.

Uh, have you tried water?  Seriously, some these social media / u-tube / instagram babies will stand there telling you to get a good edge you have to do it on Tuesday while standing on your left foot facing south -- if that gets you to stay on their "channel" a bit longer.  Those videos ... are ADVERTISEMENTS (duh).

Saddle soap is what it sounds like.. SOAP.  When you cut leather, the EDGE absorbs (wicks) better than the surface.  This is why when we dye solid colors, we cut the piece over-sized, dye the whole thing, THEN cut out the shape, so we don't have darker dye on the edge than the rest of the project.  If you're working ONLY in black and brown shades - as some do - then it likely doesn't matter.  Course, the "custom" they go on about is very limited, too .... so each his own.

 

You're doing better than me - I've been doing this quite a while and STILL sometimes think about switching up the spacing  

Sometimes it helps to see what you DONT like. I do not like holes a full inch apart (some do).  Some of that is determined by the size of the strap and the buckle (small, light buckles get spaced a little closer).

As for the other end, I took a page (literally) from an old Stohlman book when I started out.  Again, there's some cases where it gets altered a bit, but as a rule, I still use that same basic layout.

More on belts, holsters, stuff, at https://www.jlsleather.com/information/ if you care to check that out.  Free, but we offer a full refund to anybody who wasn't happy with the info
 

I just ordered 800 yards of 207 bonded nylon thread per your suggestion. I think the roll of ritza i ordered was only 80 feet or so. 

I also found a decent priced belt template from Makers? Threw one of those on my order as well. 

LC

[JLSleather]

38 minutes ago, Loudcherokee said:

I also found a decent priced belt template

I don't know if there's such a thing as a decent priced template.  If you make 10 belts a month, a paper pattern will gitter done.  If you make 10 belts a week, just have the die made to cut the ends for you