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Leather20

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Everything posted by Leather20

  1. I'm selling my never used, still in original packaging Springfield Leather Co. leather safety beveler. I'm looking to get about $12 + Shipping USD for it, although I'm willing to consider your best offer.
  2. I'm selling a brand new (once opened never used) Springfield Leather Co. Safety Beveler. Please private message me for details if you're interested.
  3. Wow this is amazing!!! I do have a question, I notice you used a cinder block to roll the lace on, can you use any hard surface or is a slightly rough surface nessacary?
  4. Yeah, I was planning to use the watch after covering it with plastic and using a fairly lightweight leather. I'm not certain the weights but probably a 3-4oz. Thanks for the tips I'll be sure to post some pics when I'm done. Also, @Hardrada I love your videos! I'm subbed to you on youtube ^.^
  5. This is the only section I can really help you with. For starting using water works fine although edges burnished with water don't tend to weather use quite as well. I use gum trag and I'm trying to learn to use beeswax although that is a work in progress. I'm also attempting to use an edge coat which will give more of the professional rubbery edge you find on high end bags and wallets. Gum trag is cheap and a good place to begin
  6. Hello! I'm attempting to make a pouch for a new pocket watch I found and I'd like to try to wet-form the leather around the pocket watch. Does anyone have any tips?
  7. I think I'm going to go with the Fenice Diamond Waterstain that Springfield is selling. I saw their video on it and being able to dye something black in a single coat and his it stay colorfast when water was dumped on it (just buffed, no seal) sold me on it.
  8. I don't think the beeswax is different, it isn't rock hard or anything at room temperature. You can still make indents or wax thread by pulling it over the wax. Although I do use wax from my dad's bees. I also apologize for not being clear, if I use beeswax I don't seal the edge before applying the beeswax. If I don't use wax I seal the edge after the gum trag, normally something like a tan coat or edge coat. Thanks, I will find some canvas and using the wax after a light water burnish. I'm curious as to why people use saddle soap or glycerin to burnish?
  9. Has anyone used the Fenice Diamond Waterstain that SpringField is selling? I'm considering buying some but I'm not familiar with the brand.
  10. VOC dyes, like oil dyes, need to be used in a well ventilated area. Unfortunately, the times that I do the most work is winter time and dying outside or by a window isn't really an option. My space isn't ventilated very well. Thank you, this very very informative!
  11. Agreed, I had a small amount of success using a hand-held dermal powered burnisher but a got a large amount of wax build-up on the burnishing tip. Cleaning that was a nightmare. I've tried using cloth but my buffing cloths are old cotton rags.
  12. Over the last year or so I've been trying to perfect my burnished edges. I've read a lot of people who use beeswax after they burnish their edges but I can't seem to make it work for me. My process is, edge dye, let dry and gently buff, light water burnish, burnish with Gum Trach, and seal. When trying to use beeswax I do it right after the burnish with Gum Trach and I've experimented with sealing or not. My problem is the wax doesn't seem to apply well and after it gets worked on it becomes a hard top coat that will crack and flake. I've tried just rubbing the wax on and also softening the wax before applying it. Any help would be appreciated!
  13. So since I started leather crafting two years ago or so I've been hesitant to invest in good dye; I got the absolute essentials: black, dark brown, and light brown. For other colors I've used liquid food coloring (yes, it really does work and surprisingly well too). At this point I'm starting to consider buying real dyes for my other colors but I'm getting turned off by the price. Since food coloring works, should I stick with that for now or should I invest in dye?? Also, I'm not set up to work with a high VOC dye so I'd go with water-based dye if anyone can recommend a good one. Has anyone used the Fenice Diamond Waterstain that SpringField is selling? I'd tried using Fiebing's but I get very bad rub off (to the extent that the color streaks and fades out so that black becomes light grey) even when I'm doing everything right (everything right meaning applying two coats of dye with an hour dry time in-between applying the coats, allowing the final coat 24 hours to dry, buffing the piece, and adding a seal. I've also tried almost everything in-between).
  14. So this is just a ptototype that I've been working on. I know that the tooling and dying isn't 100% I was focused more on the pattern and seeing if these will working in the long run. The clip on the back is a repurposed paperclip (which will probably be replaced with spring steel if these works out). This piece was made completely from split leather because I didn't want to waste my good and more expensive leather on a prototype. I'm fairly happy with the result. Any feedback is welcome especially in regard to the pattern itself.
  15. This is awesome and I will try it next time i tool! Do you case the leather before or after taping?
  16. I'm sure this has been asked before, but how do you keep leather from stretching when you tool it? I've heard some say to put tape on the back of the leather, do you do this before or after casing and does it work?
  17. I've waited up to 24 hours before applying the finish. The absolute minumum I'll wait is 1 hour. I normally do at least 2 coats of dye to ensure I have an even dye although with my black I will almost always do 3-4 coats. For applying the finish I will use a small slightly damp sponge. I've tried painting the finish on with a soft paint brush and that will sometimes reduce the streaking. I've also tried spraying the finish on, but that doesn't seem to work very well (maybe if i could use a delivery system similer to an air brush it would work better but that is out of my budget right now). I'm not sure how heavily I apply the finish, I try not to over load the sponge because I know that makes the finish streak. Normally i apply a layer of finish, let it dry for a little bit, buff, and then apply another coat of finish.
  18. So I've done a couple projects that really could have used some skiving done on the edges, but I don't have a skiver and I don't do those projects a lot right now so i'm not sure i want to by a skiver. Is there any way to skiver leather using just a knife or other common tool?
  19. When I use black water-based dye and then put a seal on it (no matter if I've buffed before the seal or not) it always fades out and gets streaky (like some parts fade out so badly it looks light gray) and then rubs off on anything around it. I'm using Fiebing's Black dye (water based) and I normally seal with either Resolene or Fiebing's Leather Finish, and once in a while I use Fiebing's Leather Balm With Atom Wax. Any tips? Would going to an oil dye help this?
  20. Sorry it has taken so long to post the pics.. I've been super busy (sadly no time for anything leather, besides wearing my leather jacket XD)
  21. It would help if you placed the pics directly in the post instead of linking out to them.
  22. I'll snap a couple pics and post them here so people know what i mean
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