Hand stitching threads

[RobP]

I'm new here so I don't know if this topic ( or how many times )its been covered. I know a lot of people love Tiger thread which is a braided wax coated poly thread. I also know that a lot of traditionalist prefer linen thread and go so far as waxing and even dying their own threads. So my question is, has anyone tried a french thread fil au chinois thread? It is a linen cable waxed thread and comes in a lot of different colors. I have one of my grandfathers holsters that is over 100 years old and the thread still looks great and to me that"s a great testament for linen thread.  Thanks, Rob P.S. if anyone is interested Rocky Mountain Leather Supply carries it

Edited January 19, 2021 by RobP

[CastleLeatherWorks]

6 minutes ago, RobP said:

I'm new here so I don't know if this topic ( or how many times )its been covered. I know a lot of people love Tiger thread which is a braided wax coated poly thread. I also know that a lot of traditionalist prefer linen thread and go so far as waxing and even dying their own threads. So my question is, has anyone tried a french thread fil au chinois thread? It is a linen cable waxed thread and comes in a lot of different colors. I have one of my grandfathers holsters that is over 100 years old and the thread still looks great and to me that"s a great testament for linen thread.  Thanks, Rob P.S. if anyone is interested Rocky Mountain Leather Supply carries it

thanks rob i do believe most makers are familiar with fil au chinois. while i have never used it because of the price tag...i prefer to use twist brand or meisi waxed linen but i am thinking of switching to the poly version to test longevity.

[zuludog]

Here's a brief history lesson -- In the early 19th century the French Sanjou company developed a way of making linen thread with a tighter twist, which meant it was smoother and stronger. At the time anything Chinese or Oriental was fashionable, so they called it Chinese Thread = Fil au Chinois, even though it was, and still is, made in France. It is excellent thread

Synthetic thread is stronger than linen, and doesn't rot, but the point is that for many purposes linen is strong enough, and some people use linen as it is traditional, and also they prefer the way it feels/handles. Yer pays yer money and yer takes yer choice.

Yes, RMLS sell both Ritza 25/Tiger thread and Fil au Chinois. They also sell Yue Fung thread under their own Twist brand, and that is very good too. In fact I prefer Yue Fung linen to FauC

I hear Meisi is good but I haven't used it myself

There's only one way to find out what you like; I think that if you Search RMLS website, or speak to them, they will make up sample lengths for you

Remember that whatever thread you get, even if it is sold as ready waxed, you can give it a rub yourself

When I make knife sheaths I use synthetic for the belt loop and usually linen for the body of the sheath, which gets less stress and movement

[DJole]

I recently re-stitched an old leather sword case for a Masonic sword a family member owns. The case dates to the early 20th century, and the leather is in great condition, but the stitching had all rotted out. I suspect that it was cotton thread, rather than linen. I matched the color in Ritza/ Tiger thread (thank you, RMLS for your help!), and then saddle stitched the case, and lightly conditioned the leather. I suspect that this time the thread will last longer than 100 years. 
I know I have one spool of Twist thread, some of which I used a few months back. It was really nice to sew with. 
I haven't used the Fil Au Chinois thread.
I do have some colored waxed linen (7 ply, I believe), for making "period" pieces (like medieval pouches, for example) where a degree of authenticity is appreciated. (If we REALLY wanted authenticity, we wouldn't be using modern veg tan leather from a factory! :heh:)  And if I REALLY wanted to be period, I would make up my own thread, rolling it with hand made code and stitching with hog bristle. But I never felt like working that hard yet. ;-)

[Brigg]

I am new to leather crafting and I have tried the following threads:

Fil Au Chinois 832 and 632.

Twist 0.45mm waxed linen

Twist Polybraid 0.45mm

Ritza Tiger 0.6mm

A couple of observations. Fil Au Chinois 832 is cheaper per meter than Twist 0.45mm linen...the Twist in my opinion is easier to work with than the Fil Au Chinois which is the most difficult. Ritza is the easiest to work with but aesthetically I don't like it.

A couple of questions is the Fil Au Chinois a higher quality brand than Twist or is it more of a heritage thing? Can people tell the difference between it and the Twist linen by looking at the thread? How does Barbour thread compare?

[zuludog]

The usual diameter of thread for general leatherwork is about 0,6mm so I wonder if some of your thread is a bit thin? Consider changing to something around 0,5 to 0,7mm or 432. Still, if you're happy enough with the thinner threads just carry on.

Fil au Chinois is very good thread; traditionally it is used for top class work and for a long time it was the market leader but recently newer makes are giving it serious competition - Meisi, Amy Roke, Yue Fung, which is sold by RMLS as their Twist brand. Twist is a bit smoother than FauC but you'd have to be pretty obsessive to notice any difference when it's sewn up

Ritza is very popular, but like you I'm not keen on it. Oddly enough, though you say you found it the easiest to work with, I find it rather difficult - all part of the fun!

For a synthetic thread I use Yue Fung and Amy Roke, but I also like Tandy Waxed Nylon Thread SKU 1227 - 01; I think it's underrated. 25 yards is $2-99, cheap enough to try. Once you recognise the small reels you'll find it on other suppliers websites. It is twisted, unlike most other synthetic threads which are braided

Barbour is a reputable make, though I haven't used it myself

In fact all these makes we've mentioned are good quality, and there is nothing actually wrong with them, it just comes down to personal preference. Gradually you will try different things and settle on what suits you

There are a few YouTube videos on choice of thread for leatherwork, by Ian Atkinson, J H Leather, and others. 

Reading between the lines of your last question, I wonder....... Perhaps you've seen FauC recommended as the best thread but have seen that there are other cheaper linen threads available, and you're wondering whether to use them or not? Well, I've used FauC and Yue Fung/Twist, but in future I'm only going to buy YF -- enough said?

If you are going to try various linen threads, buy them from a bona fide leathercraft supplier, and not anonymous makes off Amazon as some of it isn't very good

Edited January 21, 2021 by zuludog

[Brigg]

Thanks for your reply zuludog!

I use Blanchard #10 irons (2.7mm) and I find that the .45mm and 832 look the best to my eye. As I start making bigger projects like bags I am sure I will want different irons and thicker thread.

I will take give MeiSi Superfine Linen threads a try.