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RobP

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  1. I think i can live with access from just one side. I'll add a full back and a shelf. Would 1/2" plywood be sufficient enough for a full back or should I go with 3/4" ? Thanks for the help guys. Rob
  2. The z clips hold and pinch the top pretty tight. The top is not free floating you can't budge it. But it will allow for expansion. Are you suggesting something like x braces between the top and bottom rails? I am contemplating running some planking across the bottom rails as I can always use some shelf space. That too would add to the rigidity. I appreciate your suggestions. More bracing can never be wrong. Like I said I'm not a carpenter. I was an ironworker for 30 yr. I built skyscrapers and bridges. Rob
  3. toxo please explain. all the lap joints are glued and screwed, Rob
  4. With the wife working from her home office full time now she has kicked me to the garage because of all the noise from my leather tooling. So now I needed a workbench. The prices of the nice woodworker benches are astronomical!. So i decided to build my own. Having limited wood working tools i built the base with just a circular saw a wood chisel and a screw gun. For the top I found a maple butcher block 2 inches thick x 96" x 26". It had been discarded because the planer had grabbed it and chewed some pretty deep gouges in it so i got it cheap, After 2 days with a palm sander i got it sanded down pretty acceptable. I used some z clip table fasteners to attach the top. Again I didn't have a biscuit cutter so I just plunge cut the slots with the circular saw.... slapped some Emmits Good Stuff on the top and some white paint on the base. Done. I'm pretty pleased with it. Rob
  5. Most of my holsters are for single action and are around 14oz total thickness the last 8-9 oz i ordered was more like a 7-8 oz. Same with the gun belt whether straight or buscadero style. I use much thinner leather for a deeply molded pancake style holster. Thats just the way Mr. Bianchi taught me and has worked for me so far. My last holster was.207. P.S. Nice tooling JLS
  6. If you show me the option of something made in black walnut i'll opt for the walnut almost every time. I was in need of a stitching pony and don't have the time to make one. So when I ran across this I bought it at first site. Now i know its only a stitching pony and its a tool. But I'll enjoy looking at it as I sew. Rob
  7. I have some nice 3 oz veg tan goat that i'd like to try and use as a liner for my holsters and gun belts. I usually use an 8-9 oz and line it with 6-7 oz leather. I'd probably use an 11 oz if I try and use the 3 oz goat skin for a liner. I'll use a french skiver and skive reliefs where the holster skirt bends and where the holster folds over to the welt side/main seam. I think the goat will make a nice elegant lining. What are your thoughts? Rob
  8. When sewing say for example the main seem on a holster with a welt. If you are going to change the thread color after assembly would a running or basting stitch work as a temporary stitch until the glue sets. What id like to do is glue the main seam and stitch, wet form the holster, then dye. After drying remove the main seam thread and then stitch the entire holster. So with a running stitch it would be a lot easier to remove the thread than a saddle stitch would be. But will the running/basting stitch be strong enough? Thanks, Robert
  9. I'm new here so I don't know if this topic ( or how many times )its been covered. I know a lot of people love Tiger thread which is a braided wax coated poly thread. I also know that a lot of traditionalist prefer linen thread and go so far as waxing and even dying their own threads. So my question is, has anyone tried a french thread fil au chinois thread? It is a linen cable waxed thread and comes in a lot of different colors. I have one of my grandfathers holsters that is over 100 years old and the thread still looks great and to me that"s a great testament for linen thread. Thanks, Rob P.S. if anyone is interested Rocky Mountain Leather Supply carries it
  10. Thanks guys, that makes perfect sense. Glue up the holster, locate your cut lines for the loop, flip the skirt liner out of the way then cut your slits for your loop. Flip the skirt back down and mark through your slits/ slots onto the inside of the skirt liner. then glue up to your marks. thanks again, Rob
  11. Hi Dwight. Me trying to copy a John Bianchi holster would be like me trying to copy the Mona Lisa. I may attempt to make something similar in a cross draw in the future. I'm still practicing my tooling and round knife skills. The more I practice the luckier I get. Rob
  12. I respectfully disagree. I can pull the toe away from the skirt enough to see the slot cut and the liner behind it. Yes this is one of John's holsters. Heres is a closer look. Rob
  13. but how do you keep from cutting through the liner if you cut the slots for the holster loop after the liner is glued. Notice the back of the skirt is not cut but the front of the skirt is for the holster to fit through. Maybe I'm missing something here. If I am I apologize for the dumb questions in advance. Rob
  14. Holster 3.emlHello, I'm new to the forum and I know this is an old thread. Im' a novice/ beginner leather crafter and these are some gorgeous holsters here. I have a couple questions about how the loop holsters are constructed. When making a lined holster do you cut the slots in the skirt after you have glued the lining on? Here is a couple of photos of my Bianchi holster. notice the back of the skirt is not cut. Now its obvious that the lining isn't cut so the loop in the skirt had to be cut before the lining went on correct? how would you accomplish this? Sorry for the dumb questions like i said, I'm a novice. Rob..p.s. i guess i don't know how to post pics Holster .eml Holster 3.eml
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