Hand crank splitter blade

[Doug61]

Hey guys,

Looking for some info on a blade for an Esto 8ins hand crank splitter. The machine looks the same as an American model A. I've been told that these were made in Australia after WW2 by an Estonian migrant, but other than this I can't find any more info. I'm a knife maker so making the blade is no problem, I am just trying to find the dimensions. The blade will be 8 ins long and 3ins wide (the same width as the American unit), but I'm not sure of the thickness of the blade or the height of the bevel. Also, for those of you have experience with these type of machines, would the blade be better flat or hollow ground? Main use will be thinner leathers.

Does anyone know of a manual for the American model A?

Cheers, Doug

Edited January 20, 2021 by Doug61

[Rogueshoemaking]

I’ve just purchased one of these, 

I was wondering if you found out any information on it. Or may have found a manual. Thanks

1 minute ago, Rogueshoemaking said:

I’ve just purchased one of these, 

I was wondering if you found out any information on it. Or may have found a manual. Thanks

 

[Tastech]

Ok ,Here's the lowdown . Better late than never .

 I have an American ST Louis model A . My blade is 152mm wide 6" . 75mm deep 3" . 6.35 mm thick 1/4 inch.

My blade is straight cut at an angle  of 17deg off 180deg . From tip to where the angle starts is 20mm.

I notice your machine has 2 screws on the blade mount plate which would correspond to 2 slots in your blade . My machine has only 1 slot .  When i look a bit harder i see the ESTO has a slight outward curve to the handle while the American has a straight one .Apart from that all parts look interchangeable between the 2 

 Last week i got the urge to strip my machine down to bare bones and give it some love . Inspired by a youtube video i watched . ( video link below ) As of today it is down to bare metal and all the fittings mirror polished . My dilemma is what color should i paint it  . Original color was black .When i got it 30 years ago it was painted ESTO green . Which frankly speaking has always been an eyesore  . I am thinking powder coating it hammer-tone black with silver dimples  or perhaps the bronze version .

BTW  Doug61 . Who chose your color scheme ? Did you channel your inner liberace ? lol . It looks very "festive " for lack of a more appropriate word 

Photo of work in progress below 

Restoration video link    

 

Edited November 2, 2022 by Tastech

[Tastech]

Once again , Better late than never . I forgot i posted this original photo and i owe you guys an update 

I finished the splitter not long after i posted the previous post 

 Here is the finished job along with its little brother . The both are very sharp and work smoothly and effortlessly and quite pleasant on the eye if i say so myself .

[chuck123wapati]

Those are fantastic looking! 

[TomE]

Very pretty machines.  They look like museum pieces.   What is the blue finish? 

[Tastech]

Thanks , when i restore i like them to look like a museum piece so it was intentional. The color is an engine enamel in spray can form . In Australia its called ford blue . Pre 1980's ford Australia pained their motors blue . I sometimes also refer to it as royal blue  but that is incorrect . I like the engine enamels because they look good but they are also very tough and impervious to oils . I have quite a few restored machines from skivers to sewing machines . In another post i have some photos of restored singer 31K48 machines . search 31K48 and you will find them . My real love is restoring singer 29K patchers . If i find a thread on here i will post some photos or i might even start a new thread .

Cheers TomE

[Tastech]

Eh while i am here . a couple of photos of a Viln pederson skiver and trimmer .circa 1950

 The round blade on the top was done and also no longer available. A Landis blade was the right diameter but had a different thread so would not work . The easiest solution was to machine a new shaft with the Landis thread. The thread is a left hand thread . The skiving blade is a stanley hand plane blade that i ground and sharpened to suit  . It works like new and i use it everyday for shoe repairs 

[Tastech]

Here is another one which needed more work as the base was cracked , so i made a new base and did the same trick with the shaft machining. Lucky i made a spare when i did the previous one . 

I pull everything down to the bare bones the clean and paint strip the parts . I soak every thig in an acid bath to remove the rust . I use a 20-1 water and phosphoric acid solution which only reacts with the rust . I leave it in the solution for 12-24 hours . Next is a wash and a wire wheel on the grinder to stop oxidization. I mechanically polish all the gears ,shafts and scews  while i am waiting for the paint to dry . Whole process can take about 20 hours but i have got my system down to about 12 . I love doing them and gives me great satisfaction seeing what i started with and what i finished with . The aim is to get a write off and resurrect it so if works for another 70 or so years.   

[SteveOz]

@Tastech G'day Tastech, I couldn't help but notice your beautiful work here. Do you sell reconditioned machines at all? Cheers, Stevo