Deebo Report post Posted February 3, 2021 (edited) Hallo allemaal, ik ben een stoffeerder van een studentenauto en ik heb een adler 467 gekocht om op te leren. Maar elke keer dat ik naaide, schiet de draad aan het einde uit de naald. Ik heb de handleiding en afbeeldingen online gecontroleerd, en de draad is op de juiste manier naar binnen en de spanning is goed ... From Google Translate: Hi everyone, I am a student car upholsterer and I bought an adler 467 to learn on. But every time I sew, the thread comes out of the needle at the end. I have checked the manual and pictures online and the thread is in the correct way and the tension is good. Edited February 3, 2021 by Northmount Added English Translation Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Northmount Report post Posted February 3, 2021 @Deebo Welcome aboard. Good to have you here. Please post in English. English is the language of choice for Leatherworker.net. As you are aware, it is a world wide forum. You may include Dutch as well if you wish to. You'll get more response likely with English as members won't have to translate to English. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Deebo Report post Posted February 4, 2021 Hello, i know, very strange, i posted it in english, but on my wife's tablet, she has her settings that when she visits a website it automatically translates to dutch but i didn't think it would translate my english text when i posted it I am from belgium btw, not holland Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
chrisash Report post Posted February 4, 2021 Are you holding both top and bottom thread tight for the first couple of stitches Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Uwe Report post Posted February 4, 2021 Since the thread comes out of the needle at the end of sewing, it may be a problem with your automatic thread cutter. Thread doesn’t come out of the needle at the end of sewing unless you cut it. Adjusting an automatic thread cutter is not simple. It seems nearly impossible remotely and with a language barrier. Aangezien de draad aan het einde van het naaien uit de naald komt, kan dit een probleem zijn met uw automatische draadafsnijder. De draad komt aan het einde van het naaien pas uit de naald als u deze afknipt. Het afstellen van een automatische draadafsnijder is niet eenvoudig. Het lijkt op afstand bijna onmogelijk en met een taalbarrière. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Uwe Report post Posted February 4, 2021 Here’s the page of the service manual that talks about the thread cutter: Hier is de pagina van de servicehandleiding die over de draadafsnijder gaat: https://www.manualslib.com/manual/464955/Duerkopp-Adler-467.html?page=16#manual Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Uwe Report post Posted February 4, 2021 (edited) Just for reference, here’s a demo video I made some time ago that shows how my Adler 467 works: Ter referentie, hier is een demovideo die ik enige tijd geleden heb gemaakt en die laat zien hoe mijn Adler 467 werkte: Edited February 4, 2021 by Uwe Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
shoepatcher Report post Posted February 4, 2021 If you are using #138 thread, you cannot run the thread thru the first tension assembly called a pre-tension assembly. Every time you cut the thread, it will come out of the needle. Bypass the tension discs on it and just thread thru the guide. Do not have to do this with #69 or #92 thread but #138 yes since it is considered a thick thread. I wokred and sewed on these for seven years. glenn Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Deebo Report post Posted February 4, 2021 2 hours ago, shoepatcher said: If you are using #138 thread, you cannot run the thread thru the first tension assembly called a pre-tension assembly. Every time you cut the thread, it will come out of the needle. Bypass the tension discs on it and just thread thru the guide. Do not have to do this with #69 or #92 thread but #138 yes since it is considered a thick thread. I wokred and sewed on these for seven years. glenn i use amann serafil 20, or what do you mean with #138? 3 hours ago, Uwe said: Just for reference, here’s a demo video I made some time ago that shows how my Adler 467 works: Ter referentie, hier is een demovideo die ik enige tijd geleden heb gemaakt en die laat zien hoe mijn Adler 467 werkte: Thanks Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Deebo Report post Posted February 4, 2021 8 hours ago, chrisash said: Are you holding both top and bottom thread tight for the first couple of stitches I cannot hold the bottom thread on this machine with automatic cutting, right? Or is this what i do wrong? And do i need to hold the top thread on this machine? All the movies i saw of these machines they just start to sew Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
shoepatcher Report post Posted February 4, 2021 ok with trimmers, the bobbin thread is cut and clamped when you heel back on the pedal. You cannot hold hold the bottom thread. What size and weight of thread are you using on your 467? Answer that first. then we can proceed on to the next phase. glenn Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Uwe Report post Posted February 4, 2021 (edited) Amann Serafil Ticket No. 20 is the same size as Tex No. 135 (138). Tex thread sizes are used in the USA https://www.amann.com/products/product/serafil/ We really need to see a video snippet of what is actually wrong. We’re all just guessing as to what’s really happening. Upload a video snippet to YouTube and the post the link here. Edited February 4, 2021 by Uwe Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Deebo Report post Posted February 4, 2021 2 minutes ago, shoepatcher said: ok with trimmers, the bobbin thread is cut and clamped when you heel back on the pedal. You cannot hold hold the bottom thread. What size and weight of thread are you using on your 467? Answer that first. then we can proceed on to the next phase. glenn Amann serafil 20 Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Deebo Report post Posted February 7, 2021 Solved, had a technician come by, turns out there was something loose somewhere that caused the needle to end in the wrong position, and never the same position i think, and indeed the tension of the first adjustment wheel was too high Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites