Landis 1 test

[RemingtonSteel]

BigSiouxSaddlery, sorry, but I can't find an emoji that has egg on it's face so this one will have to do . You have my apologies and my respect.   Curious about the needle point though...  my guess of LL is based on the direction of the angled stitch, as my LL sample above matches the angle of Jacob's sample.

[BigSiouxSaddlery]

40 minutes ago, RemingtonSteel said:

BigSiouxSaddlery, sorry, but I can't find an emoji that has egg on it's face so this one will have to do . You have my apologies and my respect.   Curious about the needle point though...  my guess of LL is based on the direction of the angled stitch, as my LL sample above matches the angle of Jacob's sample.

It's possible that Schmetz made some 331 LL needles, but I've never seen them, and they aren't currently available new.  I do believe Singer made that needle in an S point, although I've never seen those either, and they would be very rare to find now.  Both the Bauer and the Pearson No. 6, took that same needle system.  There may have been other machines and applications that I don't know about.

[jacob1965]

Thank you for all the information 

I’m out of town will check serial numbers and needles. When I get back, came with a bunch of needles and feet.

thanks Jacob 

[jacob1965]

Quote

On the back the stitches are angled and look exactly like English style saddle stitching (not what you expected to see... expecting to see straight stitching like on top), which gives you the impression that the Landis is a saddle stitch machine even though you purchased what you thought was a lock stitch machine.

RemingtonSteel the stitch on the back being angled made me think something was wrong with the machine.  Thank you for the explanation 

The needle I'm using is a LR 

[jacob1965]

BigSiouxSaddlery I have two Landis 1 my neighbor was throwing one out and I grabbed it from the trash. It was not moving at all when I got it but after a lot of oil and cleaning it runs great but has some tension problems. The serial number on that one is 4578.

The Landis on the stand I just got has a serial number of 2576 

The wax pot has no makers mark on it or numbers so not sure if its original. 

 

 

 

 

[jacob1965]

Here are a few of the accessories that came with the Landis. What are the roller guides used for? The pressure foots have numbers on them is there a guide for when to use the different foots. It also came with several needles label #3. Hope to get some time next week to run some more test. 

[BigSiouxSaddlery]

2 hours ago, jacob1965 said:

Here are a few of the accessories that came with the Landis. What are the roller guides used for? The pressure foots have numbers on them is there a guide for when to use the different foots. It also came with several needles label #3. Hope to get some time next week to run some more test. 

The guides are used when the operator wishes to sew a long piece and remain a consistent distance from the edge.  There are two of them, a left and a right, because on a machine like the #1, they are most often used when stitching rounds or traces, especially if using a knife to sink the bottom stitches.  Both rounds and traces consist of multiple layers which like to twist and move around, making it much more difficult to stitch.

 

The manual has a general guide for the number of stitches per inch and which needle/thread combination to use on any given type of work.  The foot corresponds to the number of stitches per inch. So if you're sewing 5 spi, you use a number 5 foot.  You have to adjust the stitch length of the machine to match up to the marks the foot makes.  Again, the manual instructs how to do this.  

 

The closed toe foot with the knife in the bottom is for rounds.  It would typically be used in conjunction with a bottom knife, so that too and bottom stitches would be completely hidden from view in the finished round.  Bottom knives are almost impossible to find, but could probably be made by someone with a little knife making/metal working knowledge.

 

#3 needles are larger than you'll use for most work.  #4 is standard for average heavy work, probably equal to a modern day #230, although the original needles do not match up perfectly with the modern sizes.  The original needles are also of a much better design than the modern needles.

 

I'm glad you saved your neighbor's machine from the scrapyard. 

 

Both machines were made before 1910, judging by the serial numbers.

 

[RemingtonSteel]

3 hours ago, jacob1965 said:

The needle I'm using is a LR 

@BigSiouxSaddlery You were so right in your assessment that it was a LR point needle .  I just finished re-reading Schmetz's page on the LR and LL point needles, and it turns out that the direction of the loop (clockwise or counterclockwise) formed by the bobbin/lower thread can also impact the angle of the stitch.

3 hours ago, jacob1965 said:

BigSiouxSaddlery I have two Landis 1 my neighbor was throwing one out and I grabbed it from the trash.

Damn. Now that is what I call luck!

[jacob1965]

Quote

The foot corresponds to the number of stitches per inch. So if you're sewing 5 spi, you use a number 5 foot.  You have to adjust the stitch length of the machine to match up to the marks the foot makes.

Make sense, have to see what numbers foots I have. 

Thanks, Jacob 

[DrmCa]

Hoping I am not too late to the fight. Whenever one has tension issues at the start of the seam, make sure to hold the the tails of threads and gently pull on them when you begin to stitch. If you let them hang, the first stitches may be loose.