lining with cotton (fraying) fabric

[MsEdna]

Hi everyone!

I would very much like to try to line some pieces with a cotton fabric (think a medium weight canvas) and am not sure if it is doable. This is a two part question.

1) How would I line a wallet gusset (not sure if this is the right term) so the glue does not penetrate the fabric and the fabric will not show on the edges when beveling.

2) Similar problem with the middle part of another wallet (the part holding the zipper compartment and the card slots together). Same problem with the edges.

this is the template for the middle part:

For the middle part, I was thinking of cutting an additional piece of stiffener (5mm smaller on sides and bottom), fold the fabric around it and stitch on the leather part. This would leave me with 5mm of plain leather on the sides and the bottom and the fabric will not be visible when beveling. But maybe there is a more elegant way to do it (I am counting on you @RockyAussie

For the gussets, I simply don't know. Glueing the fabric in on top before folding, but what to do with the sides or the bottom...

Any ideas would be greatly appreciated!

[RockyAussie]

21 hours ago, MsEdna said:

For the gussets, I simply don't know. Glueing the fabric in on top before folding, but what to do with the sides or the bottom...

Any ideas would be greatly appreciated!

@MsEdna My practice on gussets is to cut and attach the fabric so that it finishes about 2mm short of the edges on the sides and 1mm at the bottom. done carefully you would not need to have it fully glued and therefore not need to worry about any glue showing through. That said I buy a fabric which has been sealed on the back side that does not allow the glue to penetrate through. This Fabric is called a tessuto jacquard 100% polyester which we buy in from Italy from Tabru. Around 100 years ago if I remember correctly I used to spray a thinned down coating of pva wood glue onto some fabric to achieve a similar result. Waaay easier to just buy it and no more worries about fraying when you cut it out either.

 

 

21 hours ago, MsEdna said:

For the middle part, I was thinking of cutting an additional piece of stiffener (5mm smaller on sides and bottom), fold the fabric around it and stitch on the leather part. This would leave me with 5mm of plain leather on the sides and the bottom and the fabric will not be visible when beveling. But maybe there is a more elegant way to do it (I am counting on you @RockyAussie

That sounds good to me...... and the elegance of it is more I think in how well you do it. (Those inner curves may be easer to do with a leather piece attached)

This pic below shows the Tabru fabric cut out on our clicker press without fraying, note that the fabric in the credit card pocket does not need to go to the sides and this helps to keep the bulk down along the edge and makes for better stitching results when sewn on a sewing machine.

Hope this helps some

Brian

[MsEdna]

2 hours ago, RockyAussie said:

@MsEdna My practice on gussets is to cut and attach the fabric so that it finishes about 2mm short of the edges on the sides and 1mm at the bottom. done carefully you would not need to have it fully glued and therefore not need to worry about any glue showing through. That said I buy a fabric which has been sealed on the back side that does not allow the glue to penetrate through. This Fabric is called a tessuto jacquard 100% polyester which we buy in from Italy from Tabru. Around 100 years ago if I remember correctly I used to spray a thinned down coating of pva wood glue onto some fabric to achieve a similar result. Waaay easier to just buy it and no more worries about fraying when you cut it out either.

 

 

That sounds good to me...... and the elegance of it is more I think in how well you do it. (Those inner curves may be easer to do with a leather piece attached)

This pic below shows the Tabru fabric cut out on our clicker press without fraying, note that the fabric in the credit card pocket does not need to go to the sides and this helps to keep the bulk down along the edge and makes for better stitching results when sewn on a sewing machine.

Hope this helps some

Brian

Thank you for the detailed explanation, Brian! As I would like to use this specific fabric, I will need to come up with a solution for the fraying. The gussets I will try to make as you suggested, maybe it will be enough to fold the fabric on the bottom and glue/stitch. It's going to be a lot of work though. I remember from my sewing days that there is something called fray-stop. It is a liquid you can apply on the edges in order to stop the fraying. Maybe a 2mm coat of glue will do the same job. My seams are 3mm from the edge, so I figure I just need to cut the fabric 1 or 2mm short of the edges, like you suggest. This will be nightmare to finish  

Thank you so much for the input, I greatly appreciate it!

[mike02130]

13 hours ago, RockyAussie said:

Hope this helps some

Brian

Harry, are you Brian?  I guess Wild Harry sounds better than Wild Brian, huh?  It's Mike from IG.

[RockyAussie]

6 hours ago, mike02130 said:

Harry, are you Brian?  I guess Wild Harry sounds better than Wild Brian, huh?  It's Mike from IG.

Hi @mike02130 , yep ...I am Brian but my wife and I called the business "Wild Harry" after a wild dog we owned at the time called "Harry". My wife Mary does the IG stuff mostly and and knows you from there. She says Hi and if you see a little ginger dog in our stuff sometimes ......that'll be Wild Harry

[mike02130]

11 hours ago, RockyAussie said:

My wife Mary does the IG stuff mostly and and knows you from there. She says Hi

So you mean to say that I've been having a relationship with your wife, while all the time I thought you and I had a thing going?  

[RockyAussie]

9 hours ago, mike02130 said:

So you mean to say that I've been having a relationship with your wife, while all the time I thought you and I had a thing going?  

Yep and probably my daughter in law as well at times. That's alright though caus she knows more than me a lot of the time.