Wayupnorth Report post Posted July 9, 2021 (edited) Hi everyone, starting build for the first time. I'm going over the tree and there are some fairly craterey holes from the nails in the rawhide around the base of the forks and a few other places. I was going to start laying some leather strips in to smooth out the areas but I was wondering if I could put a filler in the deepest holes first. I feels a little sacrilegious to use bondo but I saw someone using it on here before. Also found plenty of proud nails in the seat I need to hammer down too. Thanks! Edited July 9, 2021 by Wayupnorth Pics Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
EdOdgers Report post Posted July 9, 2021 No need to fill the depressions. They will be buried as work progresses and will have not impact on the final product. What's the bandage wrapped on the bar? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Wayupnorth Report post Posted July 9, 2021 Thanks for the response. The bandage....the rawhide on the back edge of the stirrup cut out pulled up around the nails and a stirrup leather wouldn't fit in clean like the other side. I lightly wetted the area down and used the rubber tourniquet to suck the rawhide down into the back edge. I think the stirrup leather would have rode forward compared to the other side. Could be over thinking things but that's my superpower. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
EdOdgers Report post Posted July 9, 2021 No, you weren't over thinking the stirrup leather issue. That's a critical place in a tree. Based on your description of the bubble in the rawhide and the puckered rawhide around the nails, looks to me like the tree maker didn't pay enough attention to the dry-down of the rawhide. Better quality trees are tended to during the drying process and each day the seams are pounded or rubbed down, along with wrapping the horn neck and any areas that aren't flat and smooth. To effectively reinforce the tree, rawhide needs to be smooth and tight to the wood. Rawhide trees should have a protective coat of varnish or other coating to prevent absorption of moisture and the damp-dry cycling that will lead to cracking. So, once the area you moistened and flattened has dried, coat it with a couple of layers of spar varnish or urethane. It might be a good idea to paint the entire tree with spar varnish as it doesn't appear to have a thick protective layer. On second thought, to ensure that another coat will adhere well, consider asking the tree maker what they used and coat it with the same product. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Ken Nelson Report post Posted July 9, 2021 I think you tree looks like a substandard tree. I would not consider using it to build a saddle on. You cannot build a serviceable saddle on a substandard tree. I do not believe it is possible to improve the quality of that tree no matter how much you "tinker" with it. You cannot "build a silk purse out of a hogs ear"! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Wayupnorth Report post Posted July 9, 2021 (edited) Ken Nelson sadly I would have to agree with you, that's not the only issue I found. One stirrup cutout is 1/4 - 3/8 inch farther forward than the other, among other less lethal defects. But hell or high water I'm building on it and not stressed if it becomes an ornament. Being in Canada I'm just glad I can get things shipped to me sometimes. I was debating buying a top notch handmade tree for my first go and now I see I should have. This one isn't from the cheapest outfit either. I have a can of varnish that I'll put 2 coats on the entire tree after this bubble dissappears. I'm going to have to get on the waiting list of a good tree maker. I have one in mind, I hope he's in a good mood. Edited July 9, 2021 by Wayupnorth Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
EdOdgers Report post Posted July 11, 2021 It's true that you'll never build a saddle better than the tree, so don't settle for poor quality. Also, once you build on it you won't be able to control where it goes and what it does for it's lifespan, yet your name will be forever attached to it. Given the expanding list of problems with this tree, like Ken, I now suggest you not to build on it. The asymmetry you mention is a fatal flaw and is not likely to be the only one. I suggest you return it. Based on the asymmetry alone, they should honor your request for a refund. Where did you get this tree (I have my suspensions) and from whom might you buy your next? We might be able to offer critiques or suggestions. You don't need to buy at the very top of the price range to get a functional, durable, symmetrical tree. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Wayupnorth Report post Posted July 11, 2021 (edited) 3 hours ago, EdOdgers said: It's true that you'll never build a saddle better than the tree, so don't settle for poor quality. Also, once you build on it you won't be able to control where it goes and what it does for it's lifespan, yet your name will be forever attached to it. Given the expanding list of problems with this tree, like Ken, I now suggest you not to build on it. The asymmetry you mention is a fatal flaw and is not likely to be the only one. I suggest you return it. Based on the asymmetry alone, they should honor your request for a refund. Where did you get this tree (I have my suspensions) and from whom might you buy your next? We might be able to offer critiques or suggestions. You don't need to buy at the very top of the price range to get a functional, durable, symmetrical tree. Is there a private messager on here? Edited July 11, 2021 by Wayupnorth Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Goldshot Ron Report post Posted July 11, 2021 PM: click on person's name you want to message. Their profile appears and in the upper header you will see an envelope that says message. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
