Members chrisash Posted July 31, 2021 Members Report Posted July 31, 2021 (edited) No doubt a silly question but are you keeping the button pushed down all the time you are adjusting the machine and not letting go once it engages into the slot, You need to keep it constantly engaged unit fully adjusted Edited July 31, 2021 by chrisash Quote Mi omputer is ot ood at speeling , it's not me
Members LanceR Posted July 31, 2021 Members Report Posted July 31, 2021 Yes, Belle, Constabulary hit it on the head. Although the 226R-1 has the same window as the Singer it's not used and while the adjustment on the 226R-1 is as shown in your last post but the idea is the same. I have the same machine and got it with the stitch length wheel mis-adjusted. I used needle punches into light card stock to be able to determine how many stitches per inch the machine was sewing, used the button to lock the shaft and then loosened the set screw you have indicated and aligned the correct setting on the adjusting wheel. Then a few lengths of stitches to confirm the setting was accurate showed that things were correctly set confirmed the setting. You'll need to hold the card stock (or fairly stiff paper) down as the needle withdraws so the needle drag doesn't move it but it's a lot easier to accurately measure holes in paper than some fabrics so hand turning the wheel may be best. Best regards to all. Lance Quote Current machines: Consew 226R-1, Consew 227, Necchi BU Mira in an industrial table with an antique Atlas clutch setup.
Members BelleH Posted July 31, 2021 Author Members Report Posted July 31, 2021 Chrisash - It never hurts to state the obvious. Sometimes it isn't obvious to others, or sometimes it is, but people get caught up in the details and don't look at the big picture. But in this case, I definitely was pushing down the button. LanceR - Thank you for confirming what I had to do (same concept as Constabulary outlined). I have success! For those that care about the details, here they are: Today I did a few tests. First I checked the number of stitches I was getting. It was 7.5. I then decided to start with turning the stitch length regulator as far as it would go. It again reached only "7". I checked the number of stitches I was getting, and it was 5. So I I then loosened the screw on the ring and rotated until "5" was lined up with the dot. I tested and was still getting 5 stitches per inch. I then did a number of stitch number changes and did tests after each. 7 produced 6, 10 produced 7.5, 20 produced 10. For the most part I wasn't getting matches with the number of stitches and the number on the dial. I continued with stitch selection until the dial wouldn't turn any more. This was near the screw, well beyond 24. At that point I was still getting only 12 stitches per inch. I then repeated the steps but now going in the opposite direction. I went back to 11 and I found I was getting 11 stitches per inch. At 8 I was getting 8. That's where I stopped since that is where I wanted to be. So it seems that the direction from which I set the stitch number matters. I've attached a picture of my tests (on light weight card stock). I also tested on heavy leather and I am still getting 8 stitches per inch. Also LanceR - I went back to check out your posts on this forum and I see that you had asked nearly the same question as I did back in May and there were a number of replies and a video on timing. I did a long search of this site before asking my question but that didn't come up. I guess it all is in the key words used. Plus I see that you weren't getting notifications of messages - I don't always get them either. Anyway, THANKS TO ALL. Quote
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