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About LanceR

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  • Location
    Pinnacle, North Carolina
  • Interests
    Canoe triipping, backpacking, climbing, cooking, "artisan" bread baking and good BBQ and fine woodworking and welding.

LW Info

  • Leatherwork Specialty
    Just learning so.....who knows?
  • Interested in learning about
    Sewing in general, sewing heavy fabrics, sewing leather straps and pads for packs.
  • How did you find leatherworker.net?
    Internet searches
  1. Hi Don Sorry for the delay but for some reason I'm not getting notifications of new posts even though I just checked for the 5-6th time to ensure I should be getting them. It's very hit and miss. I think I've gotten, at most, two or three notifications so far to any thread. It has been instructive messing around setting the Consew up. I sit there with the parts manual and both the Consew and Singer instructions as neither is fully descriptive so that when a manual says to loosen the left side smoke shifter I can look to see what it looks like and where to find it. Kind of like learning to maintain M1 tank and Bradley Fighting Vehicle turrets in about 1981 or 1982 when they started to deliver them to us before we had our turret mechanics re-trained from M60s (but without the same consequences of screwing something up). I got the new motor mounted, got the correct length belt, adjusted the bobbin winder and then found out that the inner presser foot I was sent had far too small of a hole in it to go over the "vibrating" presser bar. And the machine also has a raised throat plate and needs a flush one. I'm trying to figure out which of the oil wicks need replaced and whether I can even get to them short of a total disassembly. No worries though. I'm not losing any money due to the delays and I have more projects that have their own projects than any one guy should have. Speaking of smokers I've built some custom smokers, have four smokers now and have five propane tanks sitting in the edge of our woods awaiting their turn to become trailer mounted wood burning smokers. The hold up for them now is that I ordered and paid for a new Hypertherm plasma cutter around 24 April and it looks like it's still going to be on back-order for several more weeks. Ahh well, the size 69, 92 and 138 thread has arrived along with an assortment of needles and some other assorted bits and pieces so at least that stuff is in hand. Best regards to all, Lance
  2. Wally, I've been working through a similar machine, a Consew 226R-2 and the knee lifter was clunky on it, too. The machine came from a correctional institution although it wasn't beat up and didn't have the kind of use that I'd have anticipated. The lifter was harder to operate than I would have expected and wasn't at all as smooth as one would wish. I'm not even sure it was reaching full height. When I looked at it closer, the lifter was off center by a good bit and was pushing diagonally on the lift rod throughout it's range of motion. A look under the table revealed so many oversized and stripped out screw holes around the lifter that it was no wonder they couldn't properly position it. As a last resort before drilling them out and gluing in plugs of dowel I used 1/4" lag screws to put the lifter where it needed to go. And the lift rod on the machine had a roller tip attached with a set screw that was clocked perpendicular to the travel of the oval pad on the lifter. After that got turned 90 degrees and in line with the lifting pads travel and the arm for the pad was properly adjusted the whole thing is much smoother and now it requires maybe 1/2 to 2/3 as much force as before to raise the foot. The lifter has an adjustable length rod to eliminate any over-travel of the knee lift and the rod is too short so the knee lift lever can be pushed too far and put a lot of force on the machine's lift mechanism even when that's at full travel already. I will be replacing that rod with a longer rod to prevent abusing the machine by the knee pad arm traveling too far. I'm very much learning as I go and for me a little time laying on my back under the machine was very rewarding in reducing the effort needed and reducing the chances of damaging the machine. Best regards to all, Lance
  3. Thanks, Don I had checked umpteen thread suppliers and done Google searches but although I have an account at Big Duck I hadn't thought to check there. The price seems high but the choices for 92 weight OD thread are few and for 138 bonded poly OD thread they seem pretty much non-existant so I ordered some bonded nylon. I just picked up a belt for the new motor, have needles and thread inbound and have some 10oz and 15oz duck in the dryer after pre-washing it to reduce shrinkage later so I hope to be tinkering with the Consew this weekend. I have basting tape for both canvas and smoother fabrics and it has come in handy before, especially for felled seams and such. I notice Frost River claims their packs are 18oz waxed canvas while Duluth uses 15oz plain canvas (duck?). I wonder if the 18oz from Frost River was 15oz before treatment or if it was 18oz which would likely make its 18-20oz now? Looking at the Frost River, Cooke Custom Sewing and the Duluth packs as points of reference offers enough of a menu of ideas to keep me busy for a while just making some practice sub-assemblies and tinkering with nuances of layouts. I need a pack the rides lower than usual in order to be able to carry a canoe so shoulder straps need to be higher on the pack body than usual. Which argues for a deeper or wider pack than a taller pack so it sits low in the canoe to keep the center of gravity low. And, for my purposes, plain duck would probably be better than waxed as the pack is going to be sitting in whatever water is in the canoe and the contents will be in waterproof bags as needed so a pack that will dry out faster is needed and I suspect that a waxed canvas pack, like coated packcloth will hold water inside it longer. And the ideas keep coming. At some point the good idea train will have to leave the station so I can make a few packs.... When are you coming to the OBX and are you going to do anything useful while you're here like crabbing or fishing? Best regards to all, Lance
  4. Yes, it's for welting/piping. For now it will come off and go in the tool chest that has my extra sewing things in it. Best regards, Lance
  5. Thanks, Don To date, I've been buying my canvas and duck from Canvas Etc in Auburn, Georgia. I've used their 10oz duck and #10/15oz duck on a few things. They have #10/15oz duck in colors on sale at $9 a yard (59" wide) and #8/18oz duck in colors at only $8.75. The #8 is available in olive drab and the #10 isn't and, at least for the first couple of projects, I wanted OD so that's what I'll order. Yesterday I pretty much decided to run with 92 or 138 bonded polyester in the 226R. And with the #8/18oz duck I'd rather use the heavier 138 thread anyway. If I can find OD thread..... I found bonded nylon but so far at least, I'm striking out on polyester. The new servo motor and feet bought from Cowboy Bob for the Consew are supposedly out for delivery in a UPS truck so I'll be hoping to be sewing on it by the weekend. And I haven't taken off and checked the tension disks so I'll do that this AM. Now to order some rivets, burrs, setters, roller buckles etc...... Best regards, Lance
  6. Thanks. I have a1950s Necchi BU Mira in an industrial table that has handled size 69 thread and 4 layers of 10 oz canvas pretty well and which sews 2 layers of 1" tubular nylon just fine. I haven't yet had a reason to try anything heavier with it. As I understand it, the Consew 226R will handle up to 138 thread. The smaller leather backing pads can likely be sewn with 69 thread as the only thing on the exterior is stitching and the structure is due to the rivet through the strap and backing pad. and there's a good chance the only need for 92 or 138 thread will be for cosmetics on the large leather pads where the shoulder straps attach to the upper body and perhaps on a thicker built up shoulder strap Duluth uses 15 oz canvas on their packs. As they use the ounce designation that normally indicates plain weave canvas and not the # designation that would normally indicate duck I'm unsure if they use plain weave canvas or if they use duck and they are just avoiding confusing customers. I guess a call to them would answer the question. I need to order a few items from them anyway. I have #10/15 oz duck on hand and plan to see how the Necchi does with increasing layers of that with a jeans needle and bonded thread. Duluth advertises that unfinished fabric edges on the interior of their packs is normal but I'd much prefer finished edges So if I use the Mire on those I may up the seam allowance so I can finish the edges with bias tape after sewing the seams. The BU Mira has a reputation of punching well above its weight on heavy fabric so we'll see how it does. After testing I may only want to make one or two packs with it but in any case I will also be keeping my eyes open for something a bit more powerful, too. I will be ordering some of the Springfield Leather remnant and scrap leather and maybe a couple of the $25 or $35 sides to tinker with. Between the leather and the duck I have now I can see how the machines do and make some test/practice sub assemblies. But another concern and part of what drove this thread is hoping to avoid buying too many #1 spools of thread that I won't be needing for these projects. At over $20 a spool that could strand a fair bit of $$ so the better an educated guess on thread I can make the less chance I'll buy something unnecessary. Best regards, Lance
  7. Good call. It comes back as a "Pre-made cord welt folder guide. http://www.tennattachment.com/741 Pre-Made Cord Welt Folder.html Here's a picture of the feed dog area. The machine came without any feet. I bought it from the North Carolina state surplus site and it came from the NC Department of Corrections. Thanks for the reply and best regards, Lance
  8. Hello All I have a Consew 226R-2 and need advice on starting points for needle/thread choices for sewing Duluth canoe pack style canoe packs in 15-18 ounce canvas and for attaching straps and backing pads to them. I'm looking to use similar construction techniques to the Duluth canoe pack shown here. And using backing pads like these: Any help with recommended thread/needle combinations for the canvas seams and the leather pads would be appreciated. I suspect the leather for the shoulder straps wants to be in the 8-9 oz range but any thoughts on that weight and the weight for the closure straps would also be helpful. Thanks and best regards to all, Lance
  9. Hello, All I'm new to sewing and I bought this Consew 226R-2 at auction a bout 10 days ago. It came with this swing away edge guide and If someone can tell me just what it's for I'd be grateful. Thanks Lance
  10. A quick look at the Winston-Salem CL pages for sewing machines and including nearby (within two hours) shows Brother CB3-B917-1 button machine FOR $800, Brother DB20736-3 FOR $625,Brother DB2-B714-3 $575, three Singer 20U33s from $375 to $750, a Juki 562 and Consew 226R-1 from the same seller for $1K each, a Wilcox & Gibbs serger for $350 and a pair of Reliables for $450 each (model unknown). All are in tables and under power...... As you would expect, I've seen darn few post bed or cylinder arm machines and most of those go far to high for me as any use I'd have for them would be more aspirational that real. That $375 20u33 is really clean and if I didn't already have a nice smaller machine I'd go look at it. It's less than an hour away. For the Outer Banks you would do well to look at the Eastern NC CL page, Wilmington, NC, Norfolk or Virginia Beach, VA ect depending on where you'll be. We're a half hour north of where I40 passes through Winston-Salem and an hour south of the intersection of I81 and I77 in VA. If you're out this way give me a shout. Best regards, Lance
  11. Hey, Don Here in Pinnacle, North Carolina (a half hour north of Winston-Salem) there are literally a few hundred former mills and furniture factories withing 100 miles most of which a now idle. And there are still a bunch working, too. There are an awful lot of industrial machines in the region and 1-1/2 to 2 years ago it was common to see 5-10 on the various Craigslist site in the region. For the last year there have been darn few and although more are showing up it still hasn't gotten back to where it was and most prices are still up. Best regards, Lance
  12. Thanks, Don Those are some very well done videos. Both presser feet are missing so I'll whistle up those and maybe a few others while I'm at it. Checking the stitch length without them is tough. The stitch length adjustment had me baffled as the machine has an index wheel that sits inboard of the handwheel and it was out of index as the picture below shows when it was, in fact at the longest stitch length adjustment. I engaged the adjustment pin and confirmed the setting of the stitch at its longest length and indexed the wheel and tighten the set screw. Using a piece of card stock and trying to hold it down as the needle retracted I came up a little short of an inch with five stitch intervals and the stitch length set at a nominal 5 stitches per inch. It will have to wait for presser feet to do any final adjustments of the forward and reverse stitches. The timing seems perfect and it's been cleaned and lubed so there's not much left to do until I get a new motor and presser feet. Again, thanks and best regards, Lance
  13. Whatever the guide is for, it swings away. The underside and inside of the machine is pretty clean but dry as it seems to have been sitting for a while before the auction. At least it had a fabric dust cover over it..... I took the three phase motor off, removed the bobbin case and cleaned and lubed under it and put the case back in and started cleaning and lubing the rest of it. Upon further research, the Consew 226R-2 seems to be more like the Singer 111W156 than the 111W155 as the 226R and the 111W156 have reverse. The Consew seems to have a 5-24 stitch per inch range. The only manuals I've been able to find are Singer PDFs with blurry pictures that are pretty tough to see any detail in. If anyone has a link to something better, I'd really appreciate it and I'd love to have a shop manual for it. Can anyone tell me how the stitch length adjusts? I get that the left of the two spring loaded buttons on the base locks the shaft collar but what do I turn then, just the handwheel of the numbered ring on the onboard side of the handwheel and what is the index mark or point? And what presser feet should I be getting to start out with? Thanks and best regards, Lance
  14. Thanks for the info, Folks. Don, having a good relationship with the riggers was always a good thing for being able to better outfit your vehicle with custom stowage, padding, carry bags and covers. One or two dozen doughnuts could go a long way in the rigger's shed. Best regards, Lance
  15. Greetings to all I'm pretty new to sewing in general. My initial interest was for sewing canoe spray covers, portage packs, climbing rope bags etc. Some of those, especially the packs, get into several layers of canvas or duck, particularly where seams cross and the packs include leather straps, backing pads etc. I have a 1950s Necchi BU Mira in an industrial style table for middle and light weight stuff but want to move up to heavier fabrics and leather so I brought home a Consew 226R-2 yesterday from an auction (that came with a Pegasus EXT 3216-03 serger in the same lot). I'm into both machines for less than $200 right now. Both have three phase clutch motors and I'm darned if I want to run my 5-HP rotary phase converter for sewing so I'm in the market for a motor for the Consew. And although I found the parts manual online for the 226R-2 I can't seem to find a model specific operator's manual or a shop manual for it. Any help in pointing me in the correct direction would be greatly appreciated. It's made in Japan and the serial number is WBA0212590. The Consew came with an attached guide and any insight into just whether it's worth keeping would be appreciated. It sure doesn't look to be something that can be quickly removed (unless it's some sort of swing away guide?). So, although I don't yet have plans to sew any heavy leather, what kind of leather should I expect to be able to sew and since that answer may be tied to the motor choice I guess that's the place to start. I'm leaning towards a variable speed servo motor but remain open to suggestions. I'd like to keep the cost to $200-250 or so but if that's not reasonable I can go higher. High speed is definitely not needed. Lower speed, especially if more torque consistent with not breaking things is available is a plus. And suggestions as to what accessories I should be looking for would be very much appreciated. In the next few days I'll be removing the clutch motor, cleaning and lubricating everything and checking the timing, feed dog height etc so I may be back with more questions. Thanks and best regards to all, Lance
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