LomaeArts Report post Posted August 7, 2021 I initially thought I hahe a timimg issue. But in researching me issue I cam across this post I can confirm my timing is identical to Constabory's phots there. What else should i look at? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Constabulary Report post Posted August 7, 2021 (edited) have you tried to move needle holder a bit closer to the hook? Needle holder may be tight in its position but generally you can move it a bit sideways. Edited August 7, 2021 by Constabulary Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Wizcrafts Report post Posted August 7, 2021 Failure to pick up the thread loop can be caused by using the wrong needle or by inserting it incorrectly. All Singer patchers used System 29 (x3 and x4) needles in the beginning. This later merged with System 332. Those systems are not plentiful nowadays, so we use System 135x16 or 135x17 walking foot needles instead. The needle must be all the way up in the bar and aligned with the rib on the left and scarf (if any) on the right. The original 29x3 and x4 had no scarf over the eye on the right. You cannot use longer or shorter needles than it was made for. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
LomaeArts Report post Posted August 8, 2021 I Have GB 29x3 needles and they are aligned correctly. The needles are fully seated in the needle bar. How ever I can't tell if the they too long. Nor do I know if the previous owner used the same needles. Ho do I check the length is correct? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
LomaeArts Report post Posted August 8, 2021 Here's a video of the needle Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Constabulary Report post Posted August 8, 2021 (edited) 6 seconds is not much to figure an issue Do you have a manual? To me it looks like you have to advance the shuttle driver. Edited August 8, 2021 by Constabulary Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Wizcrafts Report post Posted August 8, 2021 14 hours ago, LomaeArts said: I Have GB 29x3 needles and they are aligned correctly. The needles are fully seated in the needle bar. How ever I can't tell if the they too long. Nor do I know if the previous owner used the same needles. Ho do I check the length is correct? System 29x3 (round point) and 29x4 (leather point) needles are specifically made to fit Singer model 29 patchers. The needle must be fully inserted into its clamp. The clamp itself can be loosened by the top screw and removed, or even moved sideways to get it closer or farther away from the hook. The only way to time the machine is by advancing or retarding the hook. If this machine is new to you, remove the needle clamp and the needle and tap it on a hard surface to shake out any foreign material. I once found a small broken off piece of a needle shank inside a needle clamp. That 'splained why I couldn't get it to sew with series 29 needles! The stitch tightness and loop size can be altered by playing with the adjustments on top of the machine. For instance, if the barrel adjuster is backed all the way out so it has no effect on the take-up lever, The only adjustment for the thread will be the flat spring on top. It is secured with a standard coiled spring. The harder the spring tension is on that lever, the tighter the stitches will be. However, there is also a chance that this tension might cause a sub-par loop during the down/up/down jog. Early models of the 29 series machines had a fingertip adjuster on top of the flat spring to give it some free motion during those critical moments. Sometimes, one also had to spread out the coils in the spring to get reliable stitches. Since your machine has the additional barrel adjuster in the frame, you can engage it a little at a time to try to find a happy place where the loop forms reliably and the stitches aren't too loose or too tight. Lastly, there is a small paddle shaped spring in the needle bar, sitting in a cutout just above the needle mounting clamp. I refer to it as The Paddle Spring. I have other words I throw at these springs from time to time, but this is a publicly viewable forum. The paddle spring has one job: to hold the top thread in place as the needle bar makes its little job from BDC during the pickoff cycle. A fresh spring will hold the thread quiet tightly so it doesn't move until the hook picks it off. This ensures the best quality of the thread loop. However, over time, or after somebody gets the bright idea they can run heavy thread in a shoe patcher, the paddle spring gets stressed out and has less effect on the top thread during the pickoff cycle. If you find it damn near impossible to get the machine to pick off the thread loop reliably and keep getting skipped stitches, it might mean that the paddle spring needs to be tweaked or replaced. This is not a fun job and you may need to visit a shrink afterward. Just sayin'. I am kind of working on a tips article for adjusting shoe patchers. I hope to actually get it posted before I die or lose my mind. I hope this helps rather than confuses you. Uwe has a better way with technical words that I do. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
29k15engine Report post Posted August 9, 2021 (edited) After looking at the video that is a timing issue, have a look at my 29k15 timed correctly an now never missing a stitch, you are lucky you have an eccentric bush to adjust, i lengthened my rack a fraction on a new rack i bought from italy. https://1drv.ms/v/s!AoQ4CZYzE-ZEjinebhd-7y_c5KCi As constabulary stated you need overlap of the needle hole in it most anticlockwise movement, fix that and you will have a fighting chance Edited August 9, 2021 by 29k15engine Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
