I made some dies for a shoulder bag.

[toxo]

I made these die cutters to make this bag and decided to test it on thinner, smelly leather that I don't like.

The pattern was designed to be hand sewn but I wanted to see if I could machine it. Needs a couple tweaks but I'm quite chuffed with the result. Should come right on thicker leather. What's the verdict guys?

[RockyAussie]

Good effort on the knives mate. I would bore a few large holes in the wood though to enable a quick push out if needed especially if doing thicker leather. The lid flap I would add a second layer at the front most likely. The way I would suggest is to make a larger back panel/lid as a first cut and the same with the front lid flap piece and then second cut with the existing knife. I do a lot of patterning with second cutting in mind as it gets all the parts nice and lined up even which is not always easy by eye.What and where does the circle piece go? Some similar bags made by saddler's here stitch the front to the gusset so the seam is inside and that looks pretty good as well.

[toxo]

1 hour ago, RockyAussie said:

Good effort on the knives mate. I would bore a few large holes in the wood though to enable a quick push out if needed especially if doing thicker leather. The lid flap I would add a second layer at the front most likely. The way I would suggest is to make a larger back panel/lid as a first cut and the same with the front lid flap piece and then second cut with the existing knife. I do a lot of patterning with second cutting in mind as it gets all the parts nice and lined up even which is not always easy by eye.What and where does the circle piece go? Some similar bags made by saddler's here stitch the front to the gusset so the seam is inside and that looks pretty good as well.

Thanks Brian.

Here's a couple of early attempts showing the circle. On the first one I tried to design the strap for double duty as a bum bag via a keeper at the back or over the shoulder with the D rings. Not getting the first/second cut bit.

These were hand stitched. (As if you couldn't tell ha ha)

Edited October 31, 2021 by toxo

[RockyAussie]

2 hours ago, toxo said:

Not getting the first/second cut bit.

When you have clicker knives and a press available you have the advantage of doing any cutting way quicker. When you have to join pieces together the same size you can waste a lot of time trying to get every bit to line up as perfect as possible. My general practice is to make a first cut offset larger 2.5 to 3mm larger all the way around and then after all the bits are attached I then second cut to have a quick and easy perfect line up. Sometimes it can also be quicker to not even cut a piece to size like say if you were wanting to do coasters with a cork sheet backing. Do a first cut oversize for the top and glue in bulk down onto the sheet of cork getting the pieces in tight all over the cork. Then get the finished size knife and cut them all out thereby giving yourself a nice true edge to work with in a fraction of the time to line up otherwise. Where it works for me really well is when I have a lot of credit card pockets to go in a wallet. No need to get perfect first because the second cut does it for you.

[toxo]

9 hours ago, RockyAussie said:

When you have clicker knives and a press available you have the advantage of doing any cutting way quicker. When you have to join pieces together the same size you can waste a lot of time trying to get every bit to line up as perfect as possible. My general practice is to make a first cut offset larger 2.5 to 3mm larger all the way around and then after all the bits are attached I then second cut to have a quick and easy perfect line up. Sometimes it can also be quicker to not even cut a piece to size like say if you were wanting to do coasters with a cork sheet backing. Do a first cut oversize for the top and glue in bulk down onto the sheet of cork getting the pieces in tight all over the cork. Then get the finished size knife and cut them all out thereby giving yourself a nice true edge to work with in a fraction of the time to line up otherwise. Where it works for me really well is when I have a lot of credit card pockets to go in a wallet. No need to get perfect first because the second cut does it for you.

I get how that works for layers but I'm not getting what you meant with the front flap, unless you mean to bulk it up cos it's thin? This was always just a trial run to see how the pieces came together using leather that's been through the washing machine cos it's still got a chemical smell to it.

I wish I had a clicker press. My entire setup is in a small spare bedroom and my humble 1 ton arbor press pretends to be everything from a clicker press to a hot foil machine.

[chuck123wapati]

Nice work IMO. Where did you get the steel? what type?

[toxo]

18 minutes ago, chuck123wapati said:

Nice work IMO. Where did you get the steel? what type?

It's called Rule Steel. Think the name of the company over here is called Partwell. It comes in 1 meter lengths and I had to buy a box of 60. Make sure you get the 2 point rather than the 3 point which is thicker and much harder to bend. If you have a commercial die maker nearby they may sell you a few lengths.

They also sell the bender and the hole punch (not cheap) but the first few that I did was with two upright steel rods in a decent vice and a hammer and a pair of welders gauntlets.

I'll find some links if you're interested.

https://www.partwell.com/die-makers-steel-rules

Edited November 1, 2021 by toxo

[chuck123wapati]

12 minutes ago, toxo said:

It's called Rule Steel. Think the name of the company over here is called Partwell. It comes in 1 meter lengths and I had to buy a box of 60. Make sure you get the 2 point rather than the 3 point which is thicker and much harder to bend. If you have a commercial die maker nearby they may sell you a few lengths.

They also sell the bender and the hole punch (not cheap) but the first few that I did was with two upright steel rods in a decent vice and a hammer and a pair of welders gauntlets.

I'll find some links if you're interested.

https://www.partwell.com/die-makers-steel-rules

Thank you Toxo!   i will do the dirty work of searching so you can get on with your work. The info you posted was enough for me to get going..

[toxo]

3 minutes ago, chuck123wapati said:

Thank you Toxo!   i will do the dirty work of searching so you can get on with your work. The info you posted was enough for me to get going..

I like to help people.

These are what I use.

This beats drilling hands down but hard on old hands.

https://www.cromwell.co.uk/shop/hand-tools/punches/hand-operated-power-hole-punch-kit/p/KEN5607800K?gclid=EAIaIQobChMIifeJjrr38wIVIe_tCh03lQDGEAQYAiABEgJbFfD_BwE

Bending tool. Does the job but there are easier (and dearer) machines out there.

https://www.cooksongold.com/Jewellery-Tools/Durston-Metal-Bending-Set-prcode-999-7162?gclid=EAIaIQobChMIwsOG_Lj38wIVyO3tCh13QQXREAQYAiABEgIqovD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds

This well is built and does circles in a jiffy

https://vevor.co.uk/products/manual-ring-roller-bender-metal-sheet-roll-bending-rolling-machine-343mm-tool?gclid=EAIaIQobChMIwsOG_Lj38wIVyO3tCh13QQXREAQYByABEgLsAvD_BwE

You might want to check out Harry Rogers YouTube video on doing this. Watch the earlier one before he upgraded to a much more expensive bender.

[chuck123wapati]

57 minutes ago, toxo said:

I like to help people.

These are what I use.

This beats drilling hands down but hard on old hands.

https://www.cromwell.co.uk/shop/hand-tools/punches/hand-operated-power-hole-punch-kit/p/KEN5607800K?gclid=EAIaIQobChMIifeJjrr38wIVIe_tCh03lQDGEAQYAiABEgJbFfD_BwE

Bending tool. Does the job but there are easier (and dearer) machines out there.

https://www.cooksongold.com/Jewellery-Tools/Durston-Metal-Bending-Set-prcode-999-7162?gclid=EAIaIQobChMIwsOG_Lj38wIVyO3tCh13QQXREAQYAiABEgIqovD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds

This well is built and does circles in a jiffy

https://vevor.co.uk/products/manual-ring-roller-bender-metal-sheet-roll-bending-rolling-machine-343mm-tool?gclid=EAIaIQobChMIwsOG_Lj38wIVyO3tCh13QQXREAQYByABEgLsAvD_BwE

You might want to check out Harry Rogers YouTube video on doing this. Watch the earlier one before he upgraded to a much more expensive bender.

Awesome bunch of info! thank you once again.

[toxo]

I made this one last night. 

Watch this space for a patchwork tote.