Members MsDragonfly Posted January 11, 2009 Members Report Posted January 11, 2009 I have been using the Acrylic Resolene Finish and find that it is inconsistent in its application. At times it finishes fine on my holsters and other times it leaves water marks and uneven color tones and I can not figure out why this is happening. I apply the finish with a wool remenant in a consistant manner. Could the type of applicator that you use cause this inconsistency or is the Resolene just an inconsistant finish? I have attached a picture of the end of a game call holster that I make which shows the markings that the Resolene makes. You can see the streaks that it puts in the leather as well as at the end of the holster you can see the water marks that it made. I am looking for a finish that provides a water resistant, durable finish for outdoor products but also provides a smooth and even professional look. I was thinking of discontinuing the use of the Resolene and going with either the Leather Balm with atom wax or Super Sheen/Satin Sheen. Any suggestions? Also, is it possble to use the Weaver's Tuff Kote in conjunction with either the Leather Balm with atom wax or Super Sheen/Satin Sheen? Any and all help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks. ***Lisa Quote
hidepounder Posted January 11, 2009 Report Posted January 11, 2009 I tried Resolene a couple of times and had a similar experience. Using a wet piece of woolskin made a big difference in getting a clean application for me, however, I like the finish Neat-Lac gives me better and went back to it. Bob Quote
Members Rock76 Posted January 11, 2009 Members Report Posted January 11, 2009 MsDragonfly said: I have been using the Acrylic Resolene Finish and find that it is inconsistent in its application. At times it finishes fine on my holsters and other times it leaves water marks and uneven color tones and I can not figure out why this is happening. I apply the finish with a wool remenant in a consistant manner. Could the type of applicator that you use cause this inconsistency or is the Resolene just an inconsistant finish? I have attached a picture of the end of a game call holster that I make which shows the markings that the Resolene makes. You can see the streaks that it puts in the leather as well as at the end of the holster you can see the water marks that it made.I am looking for a finish that provides a water resistant, durable finish for outdoor products but also provides a smooth and even professional look. I was thinking of discontinuing the use of the Resolene and going with either the Leather Balm with atom wax or Super Sheen/Satin Sheen. Any suggestions? I was using Super sheen on my holsters but found that any type of flexing of the leather caused the finish to crack. It's a shame because I really like the high gloss finish that the super sheen provides. I was going to try resolene but was hesitant because of the mixed reviews I've read. I would also be very interested to hear what you guy and girls use for holster finishes. Quote
esantoro Posted January 11, 2009 Report Posted January 11, 2009 Tuff Kote is certainly worth trying. It could in conjunction with Atom Wax or Aussie Wax, but I don't think you need to use it in conjunction with any other shiny finish. Tuff Kote puts down a semi-gloss satiny finish. For a high-gloss finish try Leather Kote from Weaver by way of LCI, though I have not tried Leather Kote because I prefer less of a gloss. In trying to figure out just what Weaver is marketing in Tuff Kote, the latest I've come up with from LCI is that it is Poly Kote. From LCI's website: POLY KOTE * An excellent waterproof top coat finish and protective coating. Poly Kote is formulated from a blend of very tough, yet flexible acrylic resins that achieve a high gloss and excellent durable wear. Excellent scuff resistance. Widely used on factory tanned leathers--smooth and exotics. Spray as is, do not thin. Accompanying my order from Weaver was a Materials Sheet labeled "Poly Kote". Another sheet was labeled "Spray Kote" , which I believe corresponds with the black pigmented version that Weaver also sells as Tuff Kote, which I will use occasionally for a black edge finish. This clear Tuff Kote/Poly Kote is definitely worth consideration and seems to be underneath the leatherworking radar. Ed Quote
Bree Posted January 12, 2009 Report Posted January 12, 2009 esantoro said: Tuff Kote is certainly worth trying. It could in conjunction with Atom Wax or Aussie Wax, but I don't think you need to use it in conjunction with any other shiny finish.Tuff Kote puts down a semi-gloss satiny finish. For a high-gloss finish try Leather Kote from Weaver by way of LCI, though I have not tried Leather Kote because I prefer less of a gloss. In trying to figure out just what Weaver is marketing in Tuff Kote, the latest I've come up with from LCI is that it is Poly Kote. From LCI's website: POLY KOTE * An excellent waterproof top coat finish and protective coating. Poly Kote is formulated from a blend of very tough, yet flexible acrylic resins that achieve a high gloss and excellent durable wear. Excellent scuff resistance. Widely used on factory tanned leathers--smooth and exotics. Spray as is, do not thin. Accompanying my order from Weaver was a Materials Sheet labeled "Poly Kote". Another sheet was labeled "Spray Kote" , which I believe corresponds with the black pigmented version that Weaver also sells as Tuff Kote, which I will use occasionally for a black edge finish. This clear Tuff Kote/Poly Kote is definitely worth consideration and seems to be underneath the leatherworking radar. Ed I am using Tuff Kote. It's great stuff so long as you have a solvent base coat. It's a pain in the butt if you are using a water-soluable base coat because it ends up dissolving some of the base coat and running if you put too much on. I was using some Fiebing Edge Coat which is water-base with the Tuff Kote so I had to be very careful today. Next time I fool with this combination I'm going to airbrush the Tuff Kote on ever so lightly in several layers to avoid these problems. Today I was using a block of felt on the edges. Quote
Members K-Man Posted January 12, 2009 Members Report Posted January 12, 2009 (edited) I use the acrylic finish by Angelus Shoe & Polish. It's available direct from them or at Springfield Leather. I dip whatever the item is in a bucket full of the finish. Take a paper towel and wick off the excess. These are the results I get: Edited January 12, 2009 by K-Man Quote
Members MsDragonfly Posted January 12, 2009 Author Members Report Posted January 12, 2009 Thanks for the replys. Its much appreciated. K-man, In researching, I did have the Springfield Leather site saved but wasn't sure about their products. I will give them a try. Thanks. However, I was also going through my research material and found this website http://www.obenaufs.com/product_info.php?products_id=12 has anyone heard of or used any of their products . Also, what are your opinions on the Atom Wax and can you use the edge kote with this finish? Is it best before or after the finish? Thanks. *** Lisa Quote
Members Greybeard Posted January 12, 2009 Members Report Posted January 12, 2009 I just finished a Holster and used the leather balm with atom wax Here's the thread P3AT holster Quote
Members Shorts Posted January 14, 2009 Members Report Posted January 14, 2009 With Resolene, you'll get the best results by dipping or spraying (spray gets a high gloss finish, fine tune it with the nozzle setting). It does specify use for a flexible water-repellent coat. I spray my regular items going out and dip smaller pieces. sprayed: I'm glad Kevin posted the pic of the Angelus finish. I'm eager to get some ordered as I've been wanting to try it for comparison Quote
esantoro Posted January 18, 2009 Report Posted January 18, 2009 Bree said: I am using Tuff Kote. It's great stuff so long as you have a solvent base coat. It's a pain in the butt if you are using a water-soluable base coat because it ends up dissolving some of the base coat and running if you put too much on. I was using some Fiebing Edge Coat which is water-base with the Tuff Kote so I had to be very careful today. Next time I fool with this combination I'm going to airbrush the Tuff Kote on ever so lightly in several layers to avoid these problems. Today I was using a block of felt on the edges. Bree, Are you saying that Tuff Cote will remove Edge Coat that has already been applied and dried? I've noticed that LCI's site states that TC should be sprayed on, yet the DYO site states spray or manual. I prefer wiping on with a sponge but am wondering if a regular water spray bottle would be sufficient for spraying on or if a special aerosol sprayer would be needed. Ed Quote
Members Dwight Posted January 28, 2009 Members Report Posted January 28, 2009 MsDragonfly said: I have been using the Acrylic Resolene Finish and find that it is inconsistent in its application. At times it finishes fine on my holsters and other times it leaves water marks and uneven color tones and I can not figure out why this is happening. I apply the finish with a wool remenant in a consistant manner. Could the type of applicator that you use cause this inconsistency or is the Resolene just an inconsistant finish? I have attached a picture of the end of a game call holster that I make which shows the markings that the Resolene makes. You can see the streaks that it puts in the leather as well as at the end of the holster you can see the water marks that it made.I am looking for a finish that provides a water resistant, durable finish for outdoor products but also provides a smooth and even professional look. I was thinking of discontinuing the use of the Resolene and going with either the Leather Balm with atom wax or Super Sheen/Satin Sheen. Any suggestions? Also, is it possble to use the Weaver's Tuff Kote in conjunction with either the Leather Balm with atom wax or Super Sheen/Satin Sheen? Any and all help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks. ***Lisa Lisa, . . . for several reasons, . . . I do not spray anything in by leatherwork. I daub or dunk my dyes, . . . and brush on my Resolene. I cut the Resolene 50/50 with tap water, . . . shake it well, . . . and with a camel hair, one inch (cheapie) brush, . . . I begin brushing the object. At first it is kind of slopped on, . . . but then I keep brushing and it will kind of foam up, . . . and just keep brushing, . . . the bubbles will all break and you will be finally brushing a polished surface. Hang it up to dry, . . . a little (emphasis on LITTLE ) heat will help. The double rig was done that way, . . . all three pieces probably took 45 minutes total. May God bless, Dwight Quote
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