Punching oblongs is terrible

[Warhauk]

Does anybody have some tips on punching a straight oblong? I spend way too much time trying to line it up and reline and so on, then I go to punch, is about 1/3 of the time, it is still a bit crooked. Are there really people out there that can just set it down, punch, and good? I usually use a wing divider to get my 2 center points, draw a line between them, then try to line my stamp with it. Maybe I am just spatially challenged and cant tell how to line things up.

[chuck123wapati]

5 minutes ago, Warhauk said:

Does anybody have some tips on punching a straight oblong? I spend way too much time trying to line it up and reline and so on, then I go to punch, is about 1/3 of the time, it is still a bit crooked. Are there really people out there that can just set it down, punch, and good? I usually use a wing divider to get my 2 center points, draw a line between them, then try to line my stamp with it. Maybe I am just spatially challenged and cant tell how to line things up.

mark your punch on each end with a center line also.

[Spyros]

I put it down hard enough to leave a slight impression, then lift it to see if the impression looks right, then put it down again exactly on the impression and make small positioning adjustments if needs be.

I find the thing that throws my aim is directional light and resulting shadows, so I make sure to punch on my other bench that has even, diffused light.

 

[alpha2]

Warhauk, are you talking about on strap goods, like belts etc.?

[Warhauk]

14 minutes ago, alpha2 said:

Warhauk, are you talking about on strap goods, like belts etc.?

Yes, but not for the buckle side oblong, the ones I'm more concerned about are the ones I punch as notches for the collars I make that use a locking tongue buckle.

[alpha2]

I guess what I'm asking, is whether the oblong is aligned with the long axis if the piece. I'm going to take a couple of pics and post them with an idea for you. I've had the same issue that you are experiencing. Give a me a few minutes. 

[Warhauk]

39 minutes ago, chuck123wapati said:

mark your punch on each end with a center line also.

I did give that a try and it seemed to work, but after a couple of punches, it rubbed off. I was using sharpie then letting it dry first.

 

19 minutes ago, Spyros said:

I put it down hard enough to leave a slight impression, then lift it to see if the impression looks right, then put it down again exactly on the impression and make small positioning adjustments if needs be.

I find the thing that throws my aim is directional light and resulting shadows, so I make sure to punch on my other bench that has even, diffused light.

 

I've also started doing the slight impression and it is currently the method i've been using, to mixed success. And yeah I think part of my problem might also be directional lighting. I have 2 directional style desk lamps for my main lighting and the shadows definitely throw off what you would assume is the centerline of the punch.

1 minute ago, alpha2 said:

I guess what I'm asking, is whether the oblong is aligned with the long axis if the piece. I'm going to take a couple of pics and post them with an idea for you. I've had the same issue that you are experiencing. Give a me a few minutes. 

Yes they are parallel to the long axis.

[alpha2]

I scribed lines 1/8" apart to the edge of a Craftool template. (The printed lines didn't go all the way to the edge). 

Find the area you want the oblong to lie, place the punch there as close to proper alignment as you can by eye, align a line (or close, but parallel) on the template to the edge of the leather, rest the punch against the edge of the template, and go for it. You will need to check the ground surfaces on your punch to make sure the area that is resting against the template, is actually parallel to the cut opening! My cheap-ass Tandy punches are close, but one side is closer than the other. Let's just say I didn't find them to be "precision ground".

Scribing the lines at 1/8" spacing allows me to use a line that's close enough I can eyeball parallel between the lines.

 

[Warhauk]

9 minutes ago, alpha2 said:

I scribed lines 1/8" apart to the edge of a Craftool template. (The printed lines didn't go all the way to the edge). 

Find the area you want the oblong to lie, place the punch there as close to proper alignment as you can by eye, align a line (or close, but parallel) on the template to the edge of the leather, rest the punch against the edge of the template, and go for it. You will need to check the ground surfaces on your punch to make sure the area that is resting against the template, is actually parallel to the cut opening! My cheap-ass Tandy punches are close, but one side is closer than the other. Let's just say I didn't find them to be "precision ground".

Scribing the lines at 1/8" spacing allows me to use a line that's close enough I can eyeball parallel between the lines.

That is a pretty nice idea. I will have to use something like that. My wife actually already has those thick hard plastic rulers with all the marking lines on them for her quilting and sewing which I forgot all about until you showed that. I was to the point of considering building a full wood jig where i would slot the strap in and just place my punch into the cut out slot, but that feels like a pretty large endeavor to get perfect since I'm not big on woodworking, and will probably take several attempts to make properly. Still on the table if I get enough orders to make it feel worth it.

[alpha2]

Plan B, or A, your choice. With these, you only need to make one straight hole for each size of strap. After that, just set your punch in the template and mark the leather. 

 

[Dwight]

Actually . . .  I simply went up to the top of my punch . . . took a triangle file . . . and scribed a line that shows the direction the long part is.

Then I put the back of it on the dot I made for the back of the hole . . . line up the line on the top of my punch with the direction the belt is laying . . . tap it enough for an impression . . .  lift and look . . . if all looks well . . . put it back down . . . slam bam thank you maam . . . there's a hole there . . .  and it looks right.

That's just the way I do it . . . but that little line up on the top of my punch is truly THE secret of it for me.

May God bless,

Dwight

[jcuk]

On some of my larger Crew punches i put a mark in the centre of the punch on either side, easier to line up the where you have marked the leather for your crew punch hole. I use a permanent marker for this.

Hope this helps

JCUK

[TomE]

Use calipers to lightly scribe a tram line on either side of the mark for the hole.  The lines bracket the center of the strap and are 1-2 mm outboard of the width of the punch.  Roll the punch into position, lining up along the tram lines.  Tap lightly and check the impression.  Pound away!

[HaloJones]

One of these may help 

https://kemovancraft.com/products/leather-belt-punching-hole-positioning-ruler-assist-mark-hole-position-keep-all-the-holes-in-one-line

[Warhauk]

4 hours ago, HaloJones said:

One of these may help 

https://kemovancraft.com/products/leather-belt-punching-hole-positioning-ruler-assist-mark-hole-position-keep-all-the-holes-in-one-line

That is a pretty interesting tool.

[Handstitched]

A technique  that I have used, is mark out the oblong with the template, like what alpha2 has shown, and cut both ends of the oblong with a  rotary punch,say # 5 or 6  and either use the oblong punch or a  wide wood chisel to cut the remainder,  thats worked for me . 

HS

[RockyAussie]

17 hours ago, Warhauk said:

Does anybody have some tips on punching a straight oblong? I spend way too much time trying to line it up and reline and so on, then I go to punch, is about 1/3 of the time, it is still a bit crooked. Are there really people out there that can just set it down, punch, and good? I usually use a wing divider to get my 2 center points, draw a line between them, then try to line my stamp with it. Maybe I am just spatially challenged and cant tell how to line things up.

Yep ..been there and done that. If you are only doing this on the odd occasion then practice this on some strap scraps, Hold the punch away from you about 45 degrees and push down firmly once you have it in the middle then slowly roll it forward until you can see it looks level keep the pressure down and hit the punch. Practice a bit and it will come right pretty quick.

[Outfitr]

On 12/31/2021 at 9:21 PM, Handstitched said:

A technique  that I have used, is mark out the oblong with the template, like what alpha2 has shown, and cut both ends of the oblong with a  rotary punch,say # 5 or 6  and either use the oblong punch or a  wide wood chisel to cut the remainder,  thats worked for me . 

HS

This is what I usually do. I purchased a bunch of clear plastic templates a long time ago for all different widths of straps and they work great for centering. I just scribe the hole and use a punch for the ends and a sharpened wood chisel for the straight sides. Some day I'll buy some good quality oblong punches.