Punching oblongs is terrible

[Warhauk]

Does anybody have some tips on punching a straight oblong? I spend way too much time trying to line it up and reline and so on, then I go to punch, is about 1/3 of the time, it is still a bit crooked. Are there really people out there that can just set it down, punch, and good? I usually use a wing divider to get my 2 center points, draw a line between them, then try to line my stamp with it. Maybe I am just spatially challenged and cant tell how to line things up.

[chuck123wapati]

5 minutes ago, Warhauk said:

Does anybody have some tips on punching a straight oblong? I spend way too much time trying to line it up and reline and so on, then I go to punch, is about 1/3 of the time, it is still a bit crooked. Are there really people out there that can just set it down, punch, and good? I usually use a wing divider to get my 2 center points, draw a line between them, then try to line my stamp with it. Maybe I am just spatially challenged and cant tell how to line things up.

mark your punch on each end with a center line also.

[Spyros]

I put it down hard enough to leave a slight impression, then lift it to see if the impression looks right, then put it down again exactly on the impression and make small positioning adjustments if needs be.

I find the thing that throws my aim is directional light and resulting shadows, so I make sure to punch on my other bench that has even, diffused light.

 

[alpha2]

Warhauk, are you talking about on strap goods, like belts etc.?

[Warhauk]

14 minutes ago, alpha2 said:

Warhauk, are you talking about on strap goods, like belts etc.?

Yes, but not for the buckle side oblong, the ones I'm more concerned about are the ones I punch as notches for the collars I make that use a locking tongue buckle.

[alpha2]

I guess what I'm asking, is whether the oblong is aligned with the long axis if the piece. I'm going to take a couple of pics and post them with an idea for you. I've had the same issue that you are experiencing. Give a me a few minutes. 

[Warhauk]

39 minutes ago, chuck123wapati said:

mark your punch on each end with a center line also.

I did give that a try and it seemed to work, but after a couple of punches, it rubbed off. I was using sharpie then letting it dry first.

 

19 minutes ago, Spyros said:

I put it down hard enough to leave a slight impression, then lift it to see if the impression looks right, then put it down again exactly on the impression and make small positioning adjustments if needs be.

I find the thing that throws my aim is directional light and resulting shadows, so I make sure to punch on my other bench that has even, diffused light.

 

I've also started doing the slight impression and it is currently the method i've been using, to mixed success. And yeah I think part of my problem might also be directional lighting. I have 2 directional style desk lamps for my main lighting and the shadows definitely throw off what you would assume is the centerline of the punch.

1 minute ago, alpha2 said:

I guess what I'm asking, is whether the oblong is aligned with the long axis if the piece. I'm going to take a couple of pics and post them with an idea for you. I've had the same issue that you are experiencing. Give a me a few minutes. 

Yes they are parallel to the long axis.

[alpha2]

I scribed lines 1/8" apart to the edge of a Craftool template. (The printed lines didn't go all the way to the edge). 

Find the area you want the oblong to lie, place the punch there as close to proper alignment as you can by eye, align a line (or close, but parallel) on the template to the edge of the leather, rest the punch against the edge of the template, and go for it. You will need to check the ground surfaces on your punch to make sure the area that is resting against the template, is actually parallel to the cut opening! My cheap-ass Tandy punches are close, but one side is closer than the other. Let's just say I didn't find them to be "precision ground".

Scribing the lines at 1/8" spacing allows me to use a line that's close enough I can eyeball parallel between the lines.

 

[Warhauk]

9 minutes ago, alpha2 said:

I scribed lines 1/8" apart to the edge of a Craftool template. (The printed lines didn't go all the way to the edge). 

Find the area you want the oblong to lie, place the punch there as close to proper alignment as you can by eye, align a line (or close, but parallel) on the template to the edge of the leather, rest the punch against the edge of the template, and go for it. You will need to check the ground surfaces on your punch to make sure the area that is resting against the template, is actually parallel to the cut opening! My cheap-ass Tandy punches are close, but one side is closer than the other. Let's just say I didn't find them to be "precision ground".

Scribing the lines at 1/8" spacing allows me to use a line that's close enough I can eyeball parallel between the lines.

That is a pretty nice idea. I will have to use something like that. My wife actually already has those thick hard plastic rulers with all the marking lines on them for her quilting and sewing which I forgot all about until you showed that. I was to the point of considering building a full wood jig where i would slot the strap in and just place my punch into the cut out slot, but that feels like a pretty large endeavor to get perfect since I'm not big on woodworking, and will probably take several attempts to make properly. Still on the table if I get enough orders to make it feel worth it.

[alpha2]

Plan B, or A, your choice. With these, you only need to make one straight hole for each size of strap. After that, just set your punch in the template and mark the leather.