Jump to content

meander and hourglass border stamps


Recommended Posts

  • Members
Posted

Kate that Tutoial should be pinned here for future folks it was excellent. I did not realize that tool was mean for 2 sides,making the serpentine!! I dont know much so its not suprising to most! Thank you for that.

And thank you Steve for posting your work!

Romey

Cowboy inc

highcountryknives

  • Ambassador
Posted

Steve, that looks like mighty fine work to me. Thanks for sharing your pics and your experience with this tool. I was curious about it myself...

Best, -Alex

  • Members
Posted

Steve, one addition to Kate's tutorial that I usually do is cut the border lines with my swivel knife, either with a single blade or a beader blade, then bevel toward the design.

Just my $.02

Marlon

Marlon

Posted

Marlon - do you bevel inwards towards the cented of the meander design or outwards?

I could see both effects being useful depending on the layout and design

steveb

  • Members
Posted

Steve b,

I bevel on the outside of the design where the toe of the beveler is next to the design facing the design. In other words I want to "raise" the meandering. If you face the toe of the beveler toward the outside, the heel of it could interfere with the design itself if you stamp heavily.

A beader blade is one that has two cutting surfaces, and a rounded top. The cross-section looks like the letter "U". when you cut, it cuts two parallel lines and leaves a "bead".

beader.jpg

post-3307-1192551289.jpg

Marlon

Posted

Great walk through Kate,

I'll be trying that on a motorcycle seat! I really like the look of it.

Again,

real nice job

Dave Theobald

  • Members
Posted

Kate,

I like the "calculated" measure you use for the border lines. I usually just let my stamp tell me how wide. What I do is scribe my first line near the edge of the material, 1/8 inch or 3/8 inch or so. I just eyeball it and cut it with my swivel knife, then I take the stamp and stamp one impression near the corner of the workpiece. next I set my dividers to whatever spacing I want and "walk" it down the scribe line making tick marks. At each mark I then stamp another impression. This guarantees even spacing. then I align the stamp in reverse in-between the first row of stamps (like you did in picture no. 10). I stamp the one impression, scribe my other line using the end of the impression to gage it, cut this line with my swivel knife, and eyeball the centering of the remainder impressions.

Marlon

Marlon

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

×
×
  • Create New...