Want my holsters more rigid

[10mm]

Hello all,

I have started making my own leather holsters and am quite happy with the results so far. While looking at professionally made holsters, I have noticed that even though the leather is the same thickness as the leather I use, the holster is much more rigid than my finished product. I have tried the hot water molding, and many other techniques (like adding alcohol or a drop of soap to the water), but I still cannot get my holsters as stiff as the professionals. Do they put on some kind of finish (chemical, coating, etc.) that stiffens up the finished product?

Any help would be greatly appreciated.

[electrathon]

Many of the high end holsters use horse hide. It is generally "stiffer" and more rigid.

[Jordan]

After moulding and drying completly, I dyed mine blue then black then applied acrylic clear, making sure leather was very dry in between coats so it sinks in real good, and the holster is very rigid stays open when wearing it in the waist band. I have read that the heavy application of dye tends to stiffen the leather and adding the clear acrylic stiffens it further. Maybe thats why some makers actually dip a holster in vats of dye and clear rather than painting it on? Hope this was a little helpful...Jordan

[gunfighter48]

One thing you will notice is that the top holster makers use the very best veg tanned leather. Many of them swear by Herman Oak leather. I made my first IWB with leather I bought from Tandy; while it molded fairly well, it didn't have the stiffness needed to keep it open for reholstering. While I haven't ordered Herman Oak, I now get the best leather that I can afford from other suppliers, it makes a difference.

[Studio-N]

You might try deglazing the leather. Works well on armor.

[skipj]

Do you line your holsters? That helps.

SkipJ

[10mm]

Wow, thanks for all the suggestions! I will try them. One question though, can someone please explain deglazing? I have heard the term but am not sure of the definition or the process.

Thanks again for the help.

[whinewine]

deglazing is a chemical process which strips all (or much of) the old finish to allow a new start for finishing. fiebings markets a deglazing solution that strips off old finishes. highly strong fumes. use outside! it does work, but the result is not like starting with a fresh, new piece of veg-tan. i consider it a last resort- if you gotta save it, no matter what, you may be able to with fiebings deglazier.

[sheathmaker]

Try this, it works for me.

After the holster is molded completely if that be the case, using a spray bottle with water get the whole holster fairly damp then "flash" dry it with a hair dryer. The result will be a much stiffer holster ready for oil and final finish. Also works well for knife sheaths.

Paul

[TKanaley]

Make yourself up a solution of 50% water and 50% acrylic finish. Dip for about 20 to 30 seconds, quickly wipe any excess solution off and hang till dry. Obviously you will want to dye the holster and buff edges beforehand. Also obvious is that making up the solution is only viable if you are doing more than just one holster and plan on making more in the future. Gets kinda rank if you don't use it and replenish it often. Angelus and Fiebings are the best choices for acrylic. Good luck!

T

[Go2Tex]

While making straps I discovered that sometimes the straps turned out nice and firm. Turns out I was actually compressing the fibers through the process of splitting the straps while slightly wet. Then I learned that this is a process that can be done with any piece. You wet the piece and allow it to dry a bit. As the color begins to return, you compress the fibers with a slicker, rubbing it down firmly.

So, part of the secret of firm leather is to buy it that way, usually strap leather is split down and comes out firmer or using a crank splitter yourself or by rubbing it down while slightly wet.

[Calleather]

10mm,

If the holster is lined, the lining and glue will stiffen it up. A lot of the professional holster makers are heat pressing the leather while wet around an aluminum mold with a hydraulic press. The dyed holsters are dipped, left to dry then sprayed with a finish. Oiled holsters are wiped with oil then hit with harness dressing. Hope this helps a little.

[MaxxEmpire]

I agree that Hermann Oak leather makes a huge difference. I use nothing but Hermann Oak for my masks which must be self supporting in their stiffness. I also coat the interior with a thinned tanners bond.

[Kevin]

The man that used to own Campbell Bosworth used an ammonia and water mixture for stiffening, but I don't remember the percentages. Kevin