Leatherworking first steps and tools-

[zuludog]

The holes used for sewing leather are in fact slits or slots, the idea is that after you have finished sewing they close up around the thread and seal the hole. They also make the distinctive zig zag or sawtooth pattern to the stitching, which many people find attractive. You can use two types of awls for this -

A diamond cross section <> , so the awl blade is like a very small dagger. It makes a slit that is wider in the middle, which gives room for the needle, then closes up

A flat awl makes a slit that has flat sides, like a very small rectangle and some people think this gives a neater result than a diamond awl, but there's not much difference. But I suggest you start with a diamond awl, as it is slightly easier to use. You can round the edges of a flat awl so the edges are much thinner, like this () instead of []  and it is a compromise between the two; you can just try different ideas and see what you like

Yes, it is much easier to have separate fixed blade awls than swapping between them. From your list choose a round awl blade and a diamond or flat awl blade. There's not much to choose between 2,0 and 2,5 mm; it depends on what sort of leather you will use mainly - a smaller awl for thinner leather

Unfortunately, and probably for woodwork as well as leather tools, the only way to find out what you like is to buy & try!

Beware! You often see a 4-in-1 awl listed by suppliers - do not get it as it is not very good quality, and is expensive - you can buy the two separate awls for about the same price, and they are easier than constantly swapping the blades around. 

A round awl is often used to enlarge the stitching holes for sewing, they will close up afterwards

I haven't used Kemovan tools, but I hear they are good. I already have enough leatherworking tools, otherwise I would consider their edge beveller New Ver 3. Their diamond stitching chisels look good too, but I haven't heard anything about them

Edited February 7, 2022 by zuludog

[tibi]

20 minutes ago, zuludog said:

The holes used for sewing leather are in fact slits or slots, the idea is that after you have finished sewing they close up around the thread and seal the hole. They also make the distinctive zig zag or sawtooth pattern to the stitching, which many people find attractive. You can use two types of awls for this -

A diamond cross section <> , so the awl blade is like a very small dagger. It makes a slit that is wider in the middle, which gives room for the needle, then closes up

A so - called flat cross section, which is more like an ellipse or a flattened circle () Again, it is wider in the middle. Either of these types can be used for stitching, and as you sharpen and polish a diamond awl it becomes more flat anyway. Some people think a flat awl gives a neater result than a diamond awl, but there's not much difference. But I suggest you start with a diamond awl, as it is slightly easier to use

Yes, it is much easier to have separate fixed blade awls than swapping between them. From your list choose a round awl blade and a diamond or flat awl blade. There's not much to choose between 2,0 and 2,5 mm; it depends on what sort of leather you will use mainly - a smaller awl for thinner leather

Unfortunately, and probably for woodwork as well as leather tools, the only way to find out what you like is to buy & try!

Beware! You often see a 4-in-1 awl listed by suppliers - do not get it as it is not very good, and expensive - you can buy the two separate awls for about the same price, and they are easier than constantly swapping the blades around. 

A round awl is often used to enlarge the stitching holes for sewing, they will close up afterwards

I haven't used Kemovan tools, but I hear they are good. I already have enough leatherworking tools, otherwise I would consider their edge beveller New Ver 3

Thank you very much for the awl explanation. I have also seen 4-1 edge beveler, groover, creaser, hamburger maker, etc...., but it did not get very good reviews, so I would probably buy them as seperate tools.

Is there any table that will tell me what leather thickness is suitable for what products? Because, I do not think that wallets should be built from 4 mm leather. Or such a wallet will look terrible in a back pocket of the jeans.

[zuludog]

You're right, we should select leather type & thickness for various items and projects. Search around on Google and YouTube for things like -

Choosing leather thickness; choosing leather for projects; choosing leather for wallets;  leather thickness and uses; and so on. I know that Corter Leather; Ian Atkinson ( who has a YT channel called Leodis Leather) and many others have videos on choosing leather. I have found this, but there will be others

Unfortunately most of these guides are American and measure the thickness in ounces, but search around and you might find one that also uses millimetres, otherwise you'll just have to find a conversion chart between ounces & millimetres 

A Handy Guide to Leather Thickness & Weight - With a Chart (libertyleathergoods.com)

I have found this which should help, but most of the video channels I listed earlier should have a video guide on leather thickness and use 

Leathercraft Guide - Leodis Leather (ianatkinson.net) 

And also this - as I mentioned, keep searching on Google and YouTube as there are several guides, and you might just find something that is what you want

 Leather Education — Tandy Leather, Inc.

If you ask a leather supplier they might send you a selection of small samples their types & thicknesses of leather, known as swatches 

 

Edited February 7, 2022 by zuludog

[fredk]

These are general guides. just to start with. As you progress you'll find your own way with thickness, type and its use

[tibi]

10 minutes ago, fredk said:

These are general guides. just to start with. As you progress you'll find your own way with thickness, type and its use

Thank you very much. That chart will help me a lot.

[zuludog]

Thanks FREDK. I thought there was a chart of leather uses on Tandy but I couldn't seem to find it, only the weight/thickness guide

And TIBI, Fred's right, once you start you soon get used to what does what

Edited February 7, 2022 by zuludog

[Spyros]

4 hours ago, tibi said:

Yes, woodworkers suffer from this. They either have too many tools on their shelves gathering dust or they have the top-tier brand loyalty, i.e. all the tools must be Lie-Nielsen/Veritas (it is like Apple only household for those who do not know woodworking brands). And they build those beautiful wall cabinets with all matching tools inside. Such a cabinet worth of tools can cost you up to 10 000 USD. Leatherworking tools are cheap compared to that, if you do not count leather working machines.If I would start talking about woodworking machines, quality stuff costs a fortune.

I know, I've been telling everybody here that leatherworking is extremely cheap, they don't believe me 

[chuck123wapati]

5 minutes ago, Spyros said:

I know, I've been telling everybody here that leatherworking is extremely cheap, they don't believe me 

 

A hammer, hand saw and pocket knife can make alot of wood projects. same as wood working you can buy cheap or you can buy expensive. You can do by hand or buy a dozen machines. The loose term woodworking or leather working covers a big area. Tool junkies just don't hide in wood shops lol. But historically I think we got the urge from the trades, back in the day most wood workers , blacksmiths, leather workers, etc made the majority of their tools during their apprenticeship, So naturally they became very proud of their tools.

[Spyros]

12 minutes ago, chuck123wapati said:

 

A hammer, hand saw and pocket knife can make alot of wood projects.

Sure, I don't disagree.  But a hammer, handsaw and pocket knife can also NOT make about 90% of common woodworking projects, at least not to any kind of quality and finishing.  Unless you want to spend a month carving out a chair with a pocket knife.

In leatherworking however with a drawer worth of tools you can literally make 90% of common leather projects (except shoes).  And you can make them to absolute perfection and within a very reasonable timeframe.

That's the difference, and the appeal.  In leatherworking you get a lot of "finished project" satisfaction for very little initial outlay. 

Edited February 7, 2022 by Spyros

[chuck123wapati]

9 minutes ago, Spyros said:

Sure, I don't disagree.  But a hammer, handsaw and pocket knife can also NOT make about 90% of common woodworking projects, at least not to any kind of quality and finishing.  Unless you want to spend a month carving out a chair with a pocket knife.

In leatherworking however with a drawer worth of tools you can literally make 90% of common leather projects (except shoes).  And you can make them to absolute perfection and within a very reasonable timeframe.

That's the difference, and the appeal.  In leatherworking you get a lot of "finished project" satisfaction for very little initial outlay. 

 How long would it take to make a saddle with just three leather tools and would it be perfect? .My comment was directed more toward the vagueness of the two  terms we throw around and our human need to collect tools lol. But way off topic! Sorry friend.