Members Sheilajeanne Posted April 1, 2022 Members Report Posted April 1, 2022 (edited) Mtl.Biker, I had a set of the black stitching chisels from Tandy, and my poundo board totally WRECKED them!! And these were Tandy Pro punches! https://tandyleather.ca/collections/tools/products/88043-535-pro-line-diamond-stitching-chisels Okay, if you are using your stitching horse, I can see using a cork, but I pre-punch my holes before stitching. Only thing I use my awl for is if I'm having trouble finding the hole, because it's sort of closed itself up! A way of preventing stitch holes stretching when you are using a punch is to use a pulling block when removing the punches. Got this tip from Nigel Armitage's book - get a small block of wood, and place it beside your chisel when pulling it out of the holes! Edited April 1, 2022 by Sheilajeanne Quote
MtlBiker Posted April 1, 2022 Author Report Posted April 1, 2022 49 minutes ago, Sheilajeanne said: Mtl.Biker, I had a set of the black stitching chisels from Tandy, and my poundo board totally WRECKED them!! And these were Tandy Pro punches! https://tandyleather.ca/collections/tools/products/88043-535-pro-line-diamond-stitching-chisels Okay, if you are using your stitching horse, I can see using a cork, but I pre-punch my holes before stitching. Only thing I use my awl for is if I'm having trouble finding the hole, because it's sort of closed itself up! A way of preventing stitch holes stretching when you are using a punch is to use a pulling block when removing the punches. Got this tip from Nigel Armitage's book - get a small block of wood, and place it beside your chisel when pulling it out of the holes! The first stitching chisels I bought were the ones you linked to. I didn't like them because when they say 3mm or 4mm, it's NOT the distance between the points, but rather the distance between the forks. I found that frustrating especially when I tried to add a different size spacing... I didn't get what I thought I was ordering. So I switched to these stainless steel ones from Tandy. With those the spacing specification is actually the distance between the points. And I find they actually punch through the leather better. But lately I'm using them more for marking the holes (or using a stitching wheel) and then using my awl to make the actual holes. I don't quite understand the use of that "pulling block" you describe... do you place it on the handle side of the chisel or the business end? And how does that help removing the chisel from the leather? I did have a lot of trouble removing the chisel from thicker assemblies, which is why I started using my awl a lot more. Especially since I learned how to sharpen it to my satisfaction. I keep practicing and practicing my hole marking, punching and stitching, but perfection seems to be an awfully long distance away for me. SIGH I am getting better though. Quote Current machines: Janome HD3000 and Skyline S5, Consew 206RB-5, Singer Profinish serger, Techsew 2750 PRO, Sailrite LSZ-1 Premium, Consew DCS-S4 Skiver
Contributing Member fredk Posted April 1, 2022 Contributing Member Report Posted April 1, 2022 53 minutes ago, Sheilajeanne said: . . . I had a set of the black punches from Tandy, and my poundo board totally WRECKED them!! And IIRC, these were Tandy Pro punches! oh dear, oh dear. I bought two sets of hole punches [different spacing], out of China thru ebay. Cost about £8.50 for a set of 3 of each [2, 4 & 6 hole punches] No problem with them. These are for making holes which take leather away I punch into a block of blocks of wood, end grain on. Sometimes I'll use a bit of scrap leather between my work piece and the blocks My block of blocks; I have a small off-cut of thick clear-ish acrylic plastic with a slot cut into it. I place the slot on each side of the hole punches, whatever the type, and hold the acrylic down hard whilst I pull the punches out Quote Al speling misteaks aer all mi own werk..
Members Sheilajeanne Posted April 1, 2022 Members Report Posted April 1, 2022 (edited) 21 minutes ago, MtlBiker said: I don't quite understand the use of that "pulling block" you describe... do you place it on the handle side of the chisel or the business end? And how does that help removing the chisel from the leather? I did have a lot of trouble removing the chisel from thicker assemblies, which is why I started using my awl a lot more. Especially since I learned how to sharpen it to my satisfaction. I keep practicing and practicing my hole marking, punching and stitching, but perfection seems to be an awfully long distance away for me. SIGH I am getting better though. MtlBiker, the block goes beside the business end of the chisel, so the leather doesn't cling to the chisel and get stretched as you pull the chisel out. Fred uses a piece of clear plastic with a slot in it instead - that sounds like a great idea, as it would help align your chisel, as well as providing pressure on BOTH sides of the chisel as you pull it out. The wood block method would just work for one side, unless you cut a slot in it. The leather I am currently working with is VERY stretchy, so the wood block really helps! Fred, we've had this discussion before, and as a result, I, too, bought some cheapo chisels from China, and so far, they are working just great! :D Edit: yeah, I keep saying 'punches' (which take a small piece of leather away) when I mean 'chisels'! Edited April 1, 2022 by Sheilajeanne Quote
MtlBiker Posted April 1, 2022 Author Report Posted April 1, 2022 9 minutes ago, Sheilajeanne said: MtlBiker, the block goes beside the business end of the chisel I still don't get it. I'm probably as dense as those wood blocks Fred is using. I define "business end" of the chisel as the pointy sharp end, which is usually poking a bit through on the underside of the leather that you've punched through. The handle end is the opposite side. I think I could see using a block of wood on the upper side of the leather, right alongside the chisel which would then hold the leather down flat as you work the chisel out of the leather. But having the wood on the business end? Quote Current machines: Janome HD3000 and Skyline S5, Consew 206RB-5, Singer Profinish serger, Techsew 2750 PRO, Sailrite LSZ-1 Premium, Consew DCS-S4 Skiver
Contributing Member fredk Posted April 1, 2022 Contributing Member Report Posted April 1, 2022 Like this; Quote Al speling misteaks aer all mi own werk..
Members Sheilajeanne Posted April 1, 2022 Members Report Posted April 1, 2022 (edited) No, not ON the business end, but BESIDE it, pressing down on the leather as you pull the chisel out. You only do this after you've made the holes. Fred also uses his 'block of blocks' underneath the leather, to protect the tines of his chisels. Edit: ah, I see Fred's picture explains it very well! Fred, do you have the plastic there when you're punching with the chisels? That would certainly speed things up! Where did you get the plastic? Edited April 1, 2022 by Sheilajeanne Quote
MtlBiker Posted April 1, 2022 Author Report Posted April 1, 2022 5 minutes ago, Sheilajeanne said: No, not ON the business end, but BESIDE it, pressing down on the leather as you pull the chisel out. You only do this after you've made the holes. Fred also uses his 'block of blocks' underneath the leather, to protect the tines of his chisels. Edit: ah, I see Fred's picture explains it very well! Fred, do you have the plastic there when you're punching with the chisels? That would certainly speed things up! Where did you get the plastic? I see now! It's used on the top (not the business end which pokes through on the other side). Okay. Got it. And Fred's picture helped also. Sorry for being so dense, but you threw with the way you said it (or the way I understood). This is a pretty good idea! Thank you for the patience to make sure I was understanding. I too would love to have one of those acrylic things Fred is using. Quote Current machines: Janome HD3000 and Skyline S5, Consew 206RB-5, Singer Profinish serger, Techsew 2750 PRO, Sailrite LSZ-1 Premium, Consew DCS-S4 Skiver
Contributing Member fredk Posted April 1, 2022 Contributing Member Report Posted April 1, 2022 I newked that picture off ebay. My acrylic one isn't as nice. I just made a couple of saw cuts in a scrap piece of acrylic I had handy and removed the bit between the cuts to give the slot. The one in the photo is one you can buy out of China for about £3 / $3.50-ish The way I tend to do my hole making, with either type of punch, is to hold the working end, the hole punching end, with my left hand, the side of my hand pressing on the leather and fingers holding the punch tight to the leather. Mallet in my right hand. The plastic thingy is under the side of my left hand, so I slide it forwards beside the punch as I pull the punch out of the leather with my left fingers, rotating my hand at the wrist, I can keep the plastic on the leather pressing down Kinda hard to explain. After doing it a few times it becomes easy and automatic. I can sort of walk the punch along a line quite quickly this way - punch, pull out, slide along using the plastic as a slider, punch, pull out, slide along and so on Quote Al speling misteaks aer all mi own werk..
MtlBiker Posted April 8, 2022 Author Report Posted April 8, 2022 @Fredk and @Sheilajeanne - I just found that Ivan Leathercraft sells that acrylic gizmo. I was ordering some punches from them and came across it. Acrylic Chisel Aid I just added one to my order. I'll believe it when I see it, but they said it would deliver in 2-7 days via expedited (FREE!) shipping. And that's from Hong Kong to Canada. Quote Current machines: Janome HD3000 and Skyline S5, Consew 206RB-5, Singer Profinish serger, Techsew 2750 PRO, Sailrite LSZ-1 Premium, Consew DCS-S4 Skiver
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