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Posted
2 hours ago, Jhunter13 said:

I am curious, why the 92 on the bobbin vs 138?

There are few reasons that I know of:

i) Sometimes people just like the look of the larger thread on the top side where the addition strength of the top thread wasn't necessary.

ii) The machine wasn't designed for V138 top and in the bobbin sewing but you can cheat sometimes if you use a smaller bobbin thread as it is easier to haul up the smaller V92 thread through the larger size hole created by the larger needle required for V138.

iii) Their is misinformation out on the web that you should use one size smaller thread in the bobbin then that of the top thread.

v) You can get more thread on the bobbin to reduce bobbin changes.

vi) Worn or damaged parts that create tension issues.

kgg

Juki DNU - 1541S, Juki DU - 1181N, Singer 29K - 71(1949), Chinese Patcher (Tinkers Delight), Warlock TSC-441, Techsew 2750 Pro, Consew DCS-S4 Skiver

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Posted
9 hours ago, Wizcrafts said:

Unless somebody has custom fitted a Juki hook and milled out the chamber it resides in, your bobbins are M style, not U.

Hi Wiz, appreciate your input!!!

Since I don't want to hijack Sojourner's thread, I'll just create a new thread in the near future for Big Barb, with detailed photos of everything and you guys can identify what the heck Big Barb is made of. LOL. I'd love for you to really look her over and share your thoughts. I got so busy yesterday with this Auto Upholstery job I am on that I could barely even think of taking pics. The photo I attached is just the one the Seller used for the Ad.

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Posted (edited)
3 hours ago, Jhunter13 said:

Suzelle -nice machine.  I am curious, why the 92 on the bobbin vs 138?  (Sorry if there is an obviois reason...still new the industrials).  

Hello JHunter, thanks! Glad you like her! Good question aboout the thread weights used!  The newly acquired machine (Big Barb) is my machine, but I have set her up at at a Friend's shop to help him get caught up with a sudden flood of work. He's got his machines set up with this thread combo, and since I know that is what he prefers to set up his own machines, I set mine up that way in his shop.

Yes, I have my own shop too. At my own shop, I have used #92 bonded, and #69 bonded pretty regularly. #92 top and bottom for Aircraft covers and Banners. #69 top and bottom for lighter stuff.

Any Auto Upholsterers here? Please chime in and answer that one for JHunter if you have the same thread arrangement used in your shop (#138 top and #92 bottom). I'm pretty new at Auto Upholstery too! Have done a little Aircraft Seat Upholstery too, but using #92 top and bottom.

Thanks JHunter for your question!

Edited by suzelle
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Posted
44 minutes ago, kgg said:

There are few reasons that I know of:

i) Sometimes people just like the look of the larger thread on the top side where the addition strength of the top thread wasn't necessary.

ii) The machine wasn't designed for V138 top and in the bobbin sewing but you can cheat sometimes if you use a smaller bobbin thread as it is easier to haul up the smaller V92 thread through the larger size hole created by the larger needle required for V138.

iii) Their is misinformation out on the web that you should use one size smaller thread in the bobbin then that of the top thread.

v) You can get more thread on the bobbin to reduce bobbin changes.

vi) Worn or damaged parts that create tension issues.

kgg

kgg - all good points! I think you are right that the reason is they like the look of the larger thread on the top. I think you are also right that they like the idea of getting more thread on the bobbin to reduce having to change the bobbin. I was told that they felt they didn't need the exta stength of the thicker thread in the bobbin, that #92 was strong enough.

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Posted
2 hours ago, suzelle said:

Any Auto Upholsterers here? Please chime in and answer that one for JHunter if you have the same thread arrangement used in your shop (#138 top and #92 bottom).

What you described is the method used on lockstitch sewing machines when one wants a bold top thread appearance, but there is insufficient thickness to hide the knots if the same size thread is used in the bobbin. A thinner bobbin thread bends tighter and won't cause noticeable bumps along the folded down and topstitched seams.

I sometimes use this technique when a customer asks to have a belt edge stitched for appearance, but the leather is too thin to hide the knots formed by #138 or #207 thread. Using a thinner bobbin thread lets the knots stay low down, but not sticking out the bottom.

Know that anytime you use a thinner bobbin thread, the strength of each stitch is that of the weaker thread.

Posted IMHO, by Wiz

My current crop of sewing machines:

Cowboy CB4500, Singer 107w3, Singer 139w109, Singer 168G101, Singer 29k71, Singer 31-15, Singer 111w103, Singer 211G156, Adler 30-7 on power stand, Techsew 2700, Fortuna power skiver and a Pfaff 4 thread 2 needle serger.

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Posted
10 hours ago, Wizcrafts said:

What you described is the method used on lockstitch sewing machines when one wants a bold top thread appearance, but there is insufficient thickness to hide the knots if the same size thread is used in the bobbin. A thinner bobbin thread bends tighter and won't cause noticeable bumps along the folded down and topstitched seams.

I sometimes use this technique when a customer asks to have a belt edge stitched for appearance, but the leather is too thin to hide the knots formed by #138 or #207 thread. Using a thinner bobbin thread lets the knots stay low down, but not sticking out the bottom.

Know that anytime you use a thinner bobbin thread, the strength of each stitch is that of the weaker thread.

Thanks for explaining Wiz! Glad to know!

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Posted (edited)

New question on the same topic of oiling.

Many of the oiling ports, the red paint has partially wore off.  I would like to touch up those areas with some type of red paint.  Does anyone have recommendations on what paint to use and the procedure for painting those oil ports?  Or a reason why I should not do that OR an alternative to red paint?
 

thx!

Edited by sojourner999
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Posted
5 hours ago, sojourner999 said:

New question on the same topic of oiling.

Many of the oiling ports, the red paint has partially wore off.  I would like to touch up those areas with some type of red paint.  Does anyone have recommendations on what paint to use and the procedure for painting those oil ports?  Or a reason why I should not do that OR an alternative to red paint?
 

thx!

Red nail polish using the little brush in the bottle.

Posted IMHO, by Wiz

My current crop of sewing machines:

Cowboy CB4500, Singer 107w3, Singer 139w109, Singer 168G101, Singer 29k71, Singer 31-15, Singer 111w103, Singer 211G156, Adler 30-7 on power stand, Techsew 2700, Fortuna power skiver and a Pfaff 4 thread 2 needle serger.

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Posted
9 minutes ago, Wizcrafts said:

Red nail polish using the little brush in the bottle.

Thanks Wizcrafts!  I never even thought if that.  Now to ask my wife for some red nail polish.

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Posted

I started the work on the 206RB-4.  I took the upper tension assembly apart for cleaning.  I found both tension discs has deep grooves where the thread goes through.  I figure I would order the discs and a spring too.

i went to sewingpartsonline.com, they had discs and a spring, but are on back order.  I did a search and could not find individual tension discs.  I did find units on Amazon, but the bad reviews made me leery of ordering a complete unit.

Any recommendations on a vendor that has quality parts like tension discs and tension spring?  Or is this something where I may have to order an entire unit?  If so, where to get as close to OEM quality as possible?

Much appreciated.

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