Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Hey all,

I've been doing some research on round and head knives. At first I thought that I would go with the Tandy brands just because they're close to me and reasonably cheap, but I've since reconsidered after reading some reviews. I've decided to save up and wait for a good quality one.

However, I'd kind of like a 'stop-gap' knife for cutting curved pieces and patterns. Right now all I have is a utility knife that doesn't do a good job on curves. I've looked at the Tandy Industrial Knife and I'm wondering if it would fit the bill.

Anyone ever used one? Pros and cons? Alternatives?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

You may find the blade to be too thin. I tried some of the curved blades like that for exacto knives and they had a little too much lateral play for clean lines. However, the thin blade is not a problem when it's properly supported. For most of my cuts, even curves, I use a little olfa knife...the type that you can snap off the end to expose a fresh tip.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Strop your utility knife blade and you will be amazed at the difference. They seem sharp when new but they are really not that sharp. Ross

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Is there a trick, other than sharpness, to get a utility knife to cut curves smoothly?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

If you are cutting on the outside of the curve, cut in several stages, each cut being straight. Each subsequent cut removes a corner. Once you are pretty close the sanding, bevelling and burnishing should finish it off.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

The only thing I would call a 'trick' is knowing your own abilities. Work within your skill level, and as you work with the tools, your skill level will increase. If the curve is too tight for the blade you're using, cut it in several passes, using only the tip. There's no rule saying that you have to complete a cut in one pass.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Thanks for the tips guys! What I'm gathering from this is that I just need to put in the effort to learn to cut curves with a regular utility knife. I'll try stropping the blades and see if I can get them sharper.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Cut the first pass on the curve with your swivel knife because it is easier to control and then cut it with your utility knife or whatever you use. For straight cuts I use a rotary knife with a straight edge. For gentle curves the rotary freehand or scissors. For sharp complex curves swivel knife followed by exacto knife. Just remember on all of them let the knife do the work, don't force it. The leather will stretch and not be what you want. Experiment and find what works for you the best. Good luck

David

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Not sure if this will help, in the uk we can get a single head knife slightly cheaper than a double head knife will be much more than a stop gap knife.

As for cutting curves get as much scrap leather as you can draw odd shapes and just practice as much as you can hopefully you will get a feel for your

knife strop and sharp and please mind fingers.

http://www.josephdixon.co.uk/products/Single_Head_Knife.html

( not sure if this available in the U.S.)

Hope this helps,

JCUK

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Sorry one more thing as for quality, a head knife/round knife are a tool you will more or less use it everyday so get the best you can afford even if it means wait a while to save it will be better in the long run.

JCUK

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

JCUK, I can get an Al Stohlman brand head knife from Tandy for about 50 to 60 dollars - probably equivalent to the price you've listed- but I've heard poor reviews on their edge retention and steel quality. I'd like to save and get something like the Knipschield round knife or the Leather Wranglers.

The reason I'm asking about the industrial knife is they were on sale recently, and the curved, replaceable blade seemed to me to be a good way for cutting curves. Now the sale seems to be over and at a regular price of about $40.00 I think I'll just try working with what I have.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I've been using a George Barnsley single head knife for a lil while now. Not bad for £13+VAT from JT Bachelors (no online shop but phone should be fine).

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Hi Jake, can't comment on Al Stohlman brand head knife from Tandy for about 50 to 60 dollars - they have over here on offer not sure if they have same offer there.What I can say is I use a Osborne round knife and would not be without it, just looked at their site for a few dollars more (yes I know theres a film title in there!) you can get one of them I know which way I would go... Others here may have a different view on this. Have heard there quality has waned a bit don't know about that hope not, had my Osborne tools a while. One more thing, the reason I chose Osborne over Dixon - just the way it felt in my hand.That might be something you may want to consider.

https://www.osborneleathertools.com/category.php?cid=5

On this link above look at the sheaths and knives...

Hope this all helps,

JCUK

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I would shop for a good used head knife or round knife. Usually when a C.S. Osborne is listed in eBay, they go for $75.00 and up for an old one. The old ones are the best. The Tandy knife, in my opinion, isn't worth the effort to try to keep it sharp, or more correctly, to get it sharp in the first place. I have one I'll sell you cheap if that tells you anything. It helps when cutting curves to make sure you have something under the leather that won't grab the tip of the knife. I like a large piece of plate glass. Always remember to keep your free hand from in front of the blade!. I've also had very good luck with a curved electrician type knife, if it has an old blade of high carbon steel. I use a tri stone to keep my blades sharp, and the a strop rubbed with jeweler's rouge for the final polish. Good luck.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Thanks for all the replies guys. I'll look into the options.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.


×
×
  • Create New...