Wizcrafts

If there really are washers under the hook, removing them will advance the hook timing.

Either the latch opener arm is bent down too far or the hook is sitting too high up.

They're a brick and mortar business that's been in the same location for 28 years now. They have more parts than you can shake a stick at! Plus, it's a family run business.

Perhaps if you increase the search area to a wider radius you might see some desirable sewing machines on Marketplace. I found a lot more at 100 miles, and even more when I expanded to 200 miles radius.

@J Kellar There is another class of heavy duty sewing machine that can handle thick and dense leather, large thread and big needles. I refer to these machines as the 45 Class because they are based on the ancient Singer model 45. That machine was available with a fixed flat foot and with a flip up roller foot and had bottom feed only. I had one for a while when I first got into sewing heavy leather. It could handle #346 bonded thread with a #26 needle The maximum thickness was about 3/8 inch, although it could sew 7/16 in less dense leather. The modern equivalent would be the Cowboy CB2500, shown on this web page. You can read the full description there. It is a less expensive option if you don't expect to sew stacks of leather over 7/16 inch, or if tooth marks on the bottom and foot tracks on the top won't be a problem. Those marks can be pounded or rubbed out to a large extent. The main difference between a 45 class and a 441 class machine is that the 441s have triple feed that can walk up and down different layers without difficulty. The flat or roller foot would need you to lift the foot with the foot or hand lifter to climb up onto new layers. It would certainly handle knife sheathes and pancake holsters that only have two pieces being sewn together. Having had a Singer 45 and now having a Cowboy CB4500 gives me a good reference about the differences between these classes of machine. The only way I'd acquire another 45 machine was if I was going to be sewing tow straps or something else made of heavy webbing. You also asked about the best thread size for securing two layers of 10-11 ounce skirting. You'll definitely want to use #277 on the top and bottom. This calls for a #25 leather point needle and a lot of foot pressure.

Here is a thread and needle matching chart that I had a hand in creating. Where two sizes of needle are shown, use the smaller size in thin or soft material and the larger in thick or denser material. When it comes to the accuracy of the thread sizes, trust the name brands over no-name spools. Name brands have some degree of quality control. Avoid the cheapest thread (e.g., off-brands on eBay or online Marketplaces). The thread chart includes the strength of each thread size. This is its breaking strength. That can be used to determine the best thread for a particular job. For instance, if you are going to seam a cover that will be pulled tight over an object, or otherwise subjected to stress along the seams, use one size larger that the smallest thread. It might be a little harder to totally hide the knots on the backside, but the stitches may hold up better. I usually use the largest thread that allows me to bury the knots. There will also be different compositions of thread available to you. Choose the type of thread that fits the material. If you're sewing denim, you can buy a type of thread called Denim Thread. It's washable and stable when washed and dried. If you're sewing indoor upholstery, buy bonded nylon. If the job is for outdoor use, like a porch chair, or an awning, outside banner, or a cushion on a boat, use bonded polyester thread that's UV resistant.

That is an American Straight Needle harness stitcher. The machine is from the early 20th Century and has a needle and awl. They were made to use waxed linen thread. It was made to sew along the edges of harness and saddle straps. If you remove the edge guide, it has a depth of about 4 inches from the needle to the body. Here is a video explaining how to thread it and operate it: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vgt0AUp3emU

Start by using a Schmetz Serv 7 system 135x17 needle. I don't recommend #69 thread for this thick seam job. Move up to either #92 or #138 thread, top and bottom (or maybe 138 top and 92 bottom). If you go with #92 thread, use a #19 needle for a tight stitch, or a #20 needle for a bigger hole and easier knot pull-up. If you go with #138 thread on both sides, use a #23 needle. For 138/92, use a #22 needle. No matter which thread and needle you choose, crank down the presser foot screw to squish the material and get any wrinkles or fluff smoothed out. You might have to lengthen the stroke of the check spring and add some more slack thread via the check spring adjuster. Finally, the timing my be borderline for this thickness and density.It's a good idea to open the bobbin cover plate and watch where the hook is in relation to the top of the needle's eye on the upstroke. Also, look at the loop and make sure it isn't dissolving before the hook can pick it off.. Normally, the point of the hook intersects the needle in the scarf about 1/8 inch above the eye. It should have a big enough loop to easily grab it and carry it around the bobbin and shuttle. Maybe your timing is retarded and advancing it will both resolve the skipped stitches and any snapping sound as the top thread goes around the bobbin case/shuttle.

You'll need a walking foot machine for this job. It could be a portable walking foot machine made by Sailrite. Or, it could be an industrial machine head mounted on a 20x48 inch table with a clutch or servo motor under the table.

Either the safety clutch has tripped due to a thread jam (most likely), or the driving gears have loosened on the drive shafts.

This translates into English as the following: Good day. I got a machine, since I turned it on, the machine has become very hot and as if it is stopping. The belt is rubbing against the table and I can't see how to adjust the motor. Any advice? What is the make and model of the machine? Can you post a picture? In the picture, show where the belt is rubbing and show a picture of the motor under the table. Please translate your replies into English. Thank you. In Afrikaans Wat is die maak en model van die masjien? Kan jy 'n foto plaas? Wys in die foto waar die band vryf en wys 'n foto van die motor onder die tafel. Neem asseblief klein fotogroottes. Vertaal asseblief u antwoorde in Engels. Dankie.

If I understand you correctly, You are saying that the top thread loop that forms on the right side of the needle is still present as the needle moves up and the shuttle is making its second rotation. If this is the case, I think that you have forgotten to pass the top thread through the hole in the take-up lever! The path is to loop around the three hole pre-tensioner bar, then around the center of the top tension disks, then out the bottom of the disks to the check spring assembly - where you pull up as you wrap the thread around the spring and its channel until it snaps in place. From the check spring, you feed the thread up through a thread guide to the take-up lever. Pass the thread through the eye in the lever from right to left, then down through the remaining guides to the guide ring on the bottom of the needle bar. From there you thread the needle from left to right, making sure that the ribbed side is on the left and the cutout scarf side is on the right. Failure to thread the check spring correctly may also cause this problem as well as cutting the top thread as the needle descends.

@Chapelworx The weight of the leather at the edge must be the problem. To control any misalignment from the weight over the edge, try increasing the foot pressure via the large threaded pressure adjuster on the top of the head (over the presser foot). If there is also an inner foot adjuster screw, turn it down too. Are you using the stock feet? Does the outer foot have left and right toes, or just a left toe? You might need to use a double toe foot to keep pressure on the right edge to keep the leather from lifting at the inside edge. Are you using the needle and thread that shipped with the machine? What are their sizes? Check the edge of the throat plate to see if it is tapered at the left edge. Finally, using your left hand, slightly raise the left side of the belt a little higher than the right as you sew. Push the belt towards the right as you sew. Can you take a picture of the left nose end of the machine from the front view and post it here? Keep the resolution to the smallest allowed by your phone or camera. If you have the option, use .jpg format as it is usually a smaller file size.

I have the same machine. It could be that you are trying to run a thread size that is bigger than the machine is rated for. That would be #138 (T135) bonded thread.

You have correctly summarized the check spring. As for when the spring lets go (the stroke), it should always be after the needle fully penetrates the material. This will be longer on thicker stacks than thinner ones. When this spring first appeared, most people were sewing cloth garments. The problem of running without any check spring is that the top thread loosens as the take-up lever moves down from TDC. All of that loose thread flopping around tends to get caught by the needle and is likely to split if the needle hits it square on. The purpose of a thread controller, as it is officially called, is to keep the thread taut until the needle is inside or under the top of the material so that it doesn't split the loose thread by accident. Since thicknesses do vary, I usually adjust the stroke stopper bracket lower to keep the thread taut a little longer. I set the spring tension to manage the size of the thread, using less force on thin thread and more on thick thread. If you set too much spring tension, it can override the main top tension disks. I use just enough spring action to both fully seat it in the lowered position and to control the amount of slack, but not to add appreciably to the top disks adjustment. The adjustment for the "throw" varies with the design of the check spring assembly. No matter its geometry, there should always be some method of adding or subtracting how much loose thread is fed to the descending needle. The lesser the looseness, the tighter the lay of the stitches, and vice-versa. If you sew something that is thin and soft, like garment leather, denim, broadcloth, linings, etc, and the stitch line is puckering, stop sewing and cut the thread, then pull the work to remove the puckers. Move the slack adjustment to add more top thread, run a test, then resume sewing the job. You will find a happy position where the work lies flat and the stitches aren't too loose on top. The actual spring tension is controlled by rotating the entire check assembly one way or the other. On most of my SInger style machines, there is a locking screw underneather the metal housing that the assemble fits into. That screw stops the assembly from turning on its own. To change the spring's force, loosen that screw on the housing, then put a narrow flat blade screwdriver into the end of the split shaft and turn it to get the amount of spring tension you want. Tighten it down after you're satisfied. Most thread controllers I encounter have the slack adjusment in a curved slot with a small screw that sits inside the slot. You loosen the screw and the nut that tightens the assembly, then rotate to the right for more slack, then tighten it all down. Factory standard is dead center in the slot. However, the distance that the spring travels up and down comes into play if it's much longer or shorter than the default factory position (typically about 8 to 9 o'clock in the resting position). machines setup to sew leather usually have a lower resting position of the stop bracket or adjustment. I recommend experimenting with any new sewing machine until you are familiar with all of its adjustments and how thay interact.