Leather Sewing Machines
Lighter weight leathers can be sewn on home machines, but the tough stuff requires commercial or industrial sewing machines. They can be tricky to set up and operate, but can't be beat for production work.
11,525 topics in this forum
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Having not done alot of fabric sewing over the years, and having never even touched an industrial sewing machine, I really didnt know what I was looking for when I lucked into a great deal on this. The machine is a Union Special 63900 D. Seems to be in great working order, and sews Like crazy (leaves a bit of oil on the bed of sewing area though). Problem is that the stitching isnt locking (large loops on the bottom of fabric test piece) and we have played with the tension on top, but no luck. I have a Tippmann boss, that I am just starting to work with, but I needed something to do things like bags, purses, garmet items and the sort and the Boss doesnt seem to like l…
Last reply by Vwoodard, -
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Yesterday I was watching the Tippmann Boss Demo video and noticed that to change the bobbin tension on the boss required the turning of two screws. One screw to unlock the tension adjuster, the other screw to adjust the tension. Then I went to my machine and noticed that the bobbin case also has two screws. Must I also loosen one screw before I adjust the bobin tension screw. Weeks ago I was playing around with the bobbin tension screw without paying any notice to that other crew on the bobbin case. i was still able to change the bobbin tension. Thanks for your help, Ed
Last reply by Art, -
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Have the opportunity to purchase one for a "reasonable price." The machine currently belongs to a knife maker, who in his words, "is quite frankly scared of the machine." In any event, I got the chance to take a look at it this afternoon. It appears to be in really exceptional shape. The leather belts are in great shape - no cracking, etc. It runs off 110. We turned it on and it hummed to life with no problems. It has spi adjustment. The threading is nothing like I've seen before. The presser foot lift is right at about 1". Did not stitch any leather, as he did not have any and couldn't remember the proper threading. Did not have an owner's manual. Only had one…
Last reply by K-Man, -
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Hi all. I am new to this site an firstly let me say how much I have enjoyed reading all the posts with a wealth of information on a broad range of leather related topics. I have an old harness stitcher that i have restored and is FINALLY back to working condition. I have not been ale to find out any history on this type of stitcher and would appreciate if anyone can shed some light on it's history. The treadle stand has Jones incorporated into the scroll work Now I know the history of the Jones company but can not find anything on this ol stitcher. From what I can deduce it was a pre cursor to the Pearson 6, uses the same needle system and shuttle. Any info greatly appr…
Last reply by barra, -
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Just recently I had to sew a full 3/4 inch for a new handle I'm making for my briefcases. I broke two #24 needles in the process of figuring out the design. Now I notice my machine is skipping stitches quite freguently. I'd say I can't sew 12 inches without the machine skipping a stitch. Is there a checklist I could go through to troubleshoot this problem? What are the possible reasons? Thanks for the help, Ed
Last reply by esantoro, -
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Hi again. Well after getting let go from work again i decided to get a serious leather machine. what better way to find a job then to buy somethng expensive and then not be able to use it. I got the mach 3 (Juki 441 clone) and all i can say is "what took me sooooooooooo long". it took me about 2 weeks to finally get it up and running since i did some mods to the table, like put some locking casters on the table an then having to modify the linkages to operate it. im also making a table for the free arm. i will tell you that are looking for a machine. try to get a good/real leather machine and one that will do what you want and then some. in any case, like i …
Last reply by Regis, -
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Hi Everyone, Does anyone have any idea of the energy consumption on a Super Bull/Juki 441 with a 1/2 hp servo motor and speed reducer? How expensive is it to run this machine steady for an hour? I'm trying to figure out if energy costs are significant enough to be factored into the pricing of my briefcases. I'm estimating that each bag requires two hours of machine stitching. Would you say this machine is more expensive to run than a computer monitor? Twice as expensive? Three times? Thanks, Ed
Last reply by Art, -
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When I took the holster making class at Wickenburg, we had an Artisan 3000 and 4000R on loan for the class. There was a question of whether the only difference between the two machines was only the arm length. One of our instructors felt there other differences. The difference in price, $1000, Would suggest that was true. Also, What is the number 9 I see referred to? SkipJ
Last reply by Art, -
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After reading a lot of posts, I've learned that there is not any one machine that everyone would choose as THE top one. I need some info to make reasonable decision on a machine. I'm not starting a business and will likely sew one - two projects a month (have to make something with the carvings that are becomming an obsession). I've also learned that I don't care to hand stitch and I definately want the neat stitching that I see on Bruce's belts (just wonderful). It sounds like the powered machines are pretty messy (because of all the lube & oil) and might not be good inside the house but, I don't know that for sure. With machines like Artisan 3000 or Baby …
Last reply by skipj, -
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I'm a bit worried that I'm not lubricating my Super Bull very well. For a while I had been just oiling regularly but got the feeling that that probably wasn't enough. I haven't been able to fiind Balistol anywhere local, so I've been using WD-40 to spray areas that I may be missing with oil. Is it ok to use WD-40 in this manner? Thanks, Ed
Last reply by esantoro,
