Stamping
Geometric tools, basketweave, 3D stamps and alphabet and number sets. Learn to make patterns to suit your style.
527 topics in this forum
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I do a lot of this type border around inlays or to break up a large area of basket stamoping on round things like rope bags and rope cans. I put in the border I use on a lot of these too. I scribe my borders inside and out, and then stamp in the rope stamp impressions. I normally start on the outside for wider borders or tighter arcs. I think these cans have a 15" circle or so. I used that pattern to make this arc. I line up the first row of impressions with the legs just barely overlapping, They will overlap more as we work in. If you start on the inside of the arc, Murphy's law says your impressions will be too wide and not meet when you get to the outer row. Mu…
Last reply by ryankim3612, -
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First of three little tutorials on how I lay out basket stamping. This first one is using a template to establish the angle. To make a template, I take a piece of firm scrap and lay out a base line. I stamp one row, then a row above leaving off one impression until I have a triangle. I marked the outline on the scrap of how I cut that triangle. Depending on your stamp and your personal amount of overlap, that exact angle can be different even with the same stamp. Next I took some rectangular scrap, cut in a border line and lightly beveled the inside cut. I took my template, layed the flat side on the cut line, and scribed the angle line in. Next step was stamping alt…
Last reply by bruce johnson, -
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Here is another way I lay out angled baskets. Actually this is the way I do most of them now, especially for strap work. It involves no templates, and the angles may be just a bit different for the same stamp than my template method. First off, I make a light horizontal impression to establish a stamp width mark in the corner. I exxagerated the impression a bit for illustration purposes. I set one leg on this mark, and the other end of the same leg on the base line. This is my first impression. I then use that angle, setting the next impression against the base line and lining up the leg with the previous impression. I stamp an entire horizontal row. I then line up th…
Last reply by OLDNSLOW, -
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I just designed a logo so I can start stamping my work. I have a line in the logo that is 2.8 pt, so before I go any further I just want to make sure this will be visible/clear when stamped. I'm new to stamping so any help is appreciated! Thank you!
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Last reply by Northmount, -
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Tips for recording hot stamping, welcome to add
Last reply by Jinglin, -
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Ughhhh. I had the temp up too dang high and didn't catch it. How do I clean this?
Last reply by SUP, -
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Foil Stamping Temperature Testing: Finding the Perfect Temperature To explore how temperature affects foil stamping results, I tested the hot foil machine using Gold Foil on 1mm thick vegetable-tanned leather at three temperatures: 110°C, 120°C, and 130°C. Here’s what I found: 110°C: The foil stamp was clear and sharp with clean, crisp edges, but the overall effect looked flat, lacking gloss and depth. 120°C: Depth and gloss improved significantly; the design appeared vivid with relatively clear edges, although slight edge blurring was visible under close inspection. 130°C: The foil was thick and rich, but edge…
Last reply by Jinglin, -
hot stamping Beginner's Guide to Leather Stamping: 19-Week Step-by-Step Tutorial for DIY Crafters
by Jinglin- 8 replies
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I’m thrilled to share some exciting news with you all! Yes — I’ve spent an entire month collecting and organizing the most common questions about leather hot stamping, and I’ve put together a complete beginner-friendly roadmap to help anyone get started from scratch. If you’re new to leather crafting or still considering giving hot stamping a try, this preview is something you won’t want to miss! Over the next 19 weeks, I’ll be breaking down every essential aspect of leather stamping step by step: From choosing the right tools and materials, mastering basic techniques, to avoiding common mistakes and diving into more advanced tips — one topic per week to gui…
Last reply by Jinglin, -
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It has been mentioned on the forum a few times but not as a stand alone discussion topic I can find. A friend and I were talking about this a few days ago. There was a somewhat standard back in the day shared with us by older guys who stamped production work for large shops. After looking a bunch of the older work from saddles to wallets, it generally runs true. It makes for a pleasing visual outcome. Basket stamping - The width of the border stamp should be the width of the end of the basket stamp. Geometric stamping - The width of the border stamp should be half the length of one side of the stamp impression. Two impressions per side. Larger bord…
Last reply by AEBL, -
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Hello! This is only one example but, for example, I can see how I can take a modern, cheap F918 stamp (a figure-carving stamp like a camouflage) and modify it to be more like a vintage one if I had a very thin file (and maybe my slow speed grinder, too). I could sharpen the ends of the little metal lines (and maybe round the end over a bit more with the grinder). What kind of files do you/they use to tweak thin lines on stamps? I heard that even Barry King "used his coarsest checkering file" to customize a special order, vertical lined thumbprint for a guy. I wonder what a checkering file is like... like if it's made for the purpose(?). At first I kicked my…
Last reply by LakeOtter,
