Tigweldor

Roger - I´ll keep that in mind. Now with English not being my mother tongue - I just hate to read written a while later and see my text as if written by an illiterate dork. Greetings Hans

Naturally that depends upon how much weight you plan to tote around in your bag. You can always strengthen the handle attachment stitching by making a box X stitch. Also it matters on how the rest of the bag is stitched - no use having a monstrous handle if the stitches fail at the bottom of the bag and it falls apart there. Greetings Hans

should naturally read : you will notice it FROM the grooves perpendicular to feed direction. Is there a time limit on editing - if yes - WHY ?

Maybe it way custom made for him in Mexico and he didn´t want to have the maker´s brand on it ? That way just my first thought when seeing the conchos. Greetings Hans

Bell knife not sharp enough due to burr left on the inside after using the built in sharpening wheel. When the leather is still thick enough, you will not notice it other than the grooves perpendicular to the feed direction - but when it gets real thin, the burr will grab it and make a mess. Also take a very close look at the stone. It has pores that tend to clog up and leather builds up on that - thus changing foot pressure when the lump is directly under the leather. Dry ice blasting is a very good way to "resurface" the stones by cleaning the pores. With the "grabby" again stone, you can then use less foot pressure. Greetings Hans

Well, while browsing on this here web site in articles posted long time ago (nigh on 10 years) - I found a 143 page needle chart that Con had uploaded. And guess what - the first company on the list was Adamson - and they do list the BSO models as well, so it the same company. Unfortunately I could not find any models on Ebay.UK other than the Button Sew On machines.

Found this article in my old bookmarks. Although it is more for industrial application, where a technician has to set up many machines in little time and thus uses a tension gauge - there are some good points mentioned and steps to follow even when not using a gauge. I bought one of those gauges made by Schlafhorst years ago ( zero to 4 Newtons) - but to tell the truth - it has not seen use much at all. The company is no longer in existence, but Towa (Japan) still makes models for same purpose - as does Hans Schmidt - latter makes gauges for all sort of tensions. https://www.hans-schmidt.com/en/produkte/tension-meter/ Thread tension.pdf

Found this chart on the internet a while ago - had lost it amongst my bookmarked pages. For leather sewing machines, look under : Arm- und Säulenmaschinen / Sattlernähmaschinen Also good for identifying unknown needles cause it has exact needle measurements - which for old needles are often hard to obtain. https://www.naehmaschine-antik.de/technik-nadeln.html#leather-nm Greetings Hans

Talked to a bud today - who has way longer experience servicing old sewing machines than I do. He said that on the old Dürkopp 18 you have to watch this unit : To the immediate left side of the top thread tensioner there is another round thread guide. The top of that thread guide goes up and down, powered by a cam from underneath, and releases just enough thread for proper loop forming before it pinches the thread again. Now if timing of that "thread pincher" is out of sync - it will stop/bind free thread movement within the loop forming process and the arm that wants to wrap the thread around the shuttle bow will lose hold of the thread. So you have to make sure that the plunger works with the up and down motion at proper timing. Also make sure that needle to thread size fits just right - on leather it is better to go on the large side of needle sizing, so thread can form a loop and is not being pinched into the needle groove by to tight of a fit of the hole in the leather - thus not being able to form a loop because the needle pulls the thread up on the up stroke. So if you do not have different size needles at hand - just try thinner top thread for now. If all works out then - you have found the prob and can order bigger size needles for the thicker thread Hope that helps you out Greetings Hans

Yes - read manual page 16 For the position transmitter I need the actual serial numbers - even with my reading glasses on I can not read the little lable. Type = P5-2 or P52 ?? - they have different types. Have to get more intricate info from EFKA - can not do that without complete specs or else I will make myself look silly. I have set up procedure for the old P5 units - but it is in German and very short - I know that they have more detailed info. I would seriously advise you to get help from a friend who is an electronic technician - this is all not stuff for Joe Hobbyist whose main job is a logger (not that I am knocking loggers, used to be a tree topper and a shake block cutter myself when I was young) - but you have to eliminate all potential probs step by step. Greetings Hans

Here is a pic of the 2 different shuttles - see difference in mentioned hole diameter and number of holes analog to thread size used on the bobbin. These shuttles do not move at all - they stay stationary as the arm wraps the top thread around the bow. They are about as common as hens´teeth to find without having to buy the whole machine.

Merrow makes such butt stitch sewing machines - even made in the US of A. https://www.merrow.com/Overlock_Sewing_Machines/Continuous_Processing/70d3b2ls For a permanent locked butt stitch, they build a 2 needle machine. They will even build a model to your exact sewing specs - at no extra cost. If you go to Ebay.UK - you will find them up for auction - just the machine head. Otherwise you could try a fur stitching machine such as a Singer 46, Bonis, Strobel, Rittershausen - they even make one in the UK = an Allbook & Hashfield. Greetings Hans

You have to use needles 134 Since your machine ist in sub class B - you have to use needles between size 80 to 100. The S indicates that this machine was delivered with pressure foot for fabric. It was not really meant for sewing thicker leather as to limitation to the small needles. Should you want to sew thick leather - buy a different machine for that purpose.

Yes - definitely check the settings and adjust if needed. How to do it right is explained step by step in the manual. What model of positioner do you have mounted onto the drive shaft - I still have a couple kicking around in my spare parts box. These needle positioners are the "weak spot" on the whole system - there are 2 spinning discs on the inside that can move out of sync.

also show a pic of how you wound the bobbin thread within the shuttle. I assume that you have the little short shuttle with one long hole on one side and a bunch of little holes on the other, like the one in the pics - not the newer type with a pressure spring. There are also 2 types of shuttles - one with very small holes - the other with bigger holes. You can NOT run heavy bobbin thread in the one with the small holes -- you have to use thin thread size and stick to it. Or else use the other shuttle for thicker thread - and stick to thread size that you dialed it in for with the small adjustment screw at the "bow" as well as the number of holes that you wound it through. In the pics, the thread is wound wrong. First it goes through the long hole - passes over the top of the shuttle - then through the little holes - from bow to stern All said : this is a trial and error system until you get just the right tension. And then you better stick to exact same thread size and number of holes used - or repeat the whole process. But your prob seems to be that the thread is not wound all the way around the shuttle by the little arm - that stems from a maladjustment in top thread tension so not enough thread is released to form a loop.