Tigweldor

The clutch motors usually all have conical bell type clutch plates and the clutch lining is very similar to brake lining. Often after woken up from decade long slumber, oil and grease have hardened, rust has formed - action is inferior - service is needed. A well tuned and properly set up mechanical clutch system is a pleasure to operate - at least on my motors they are - and that is no witch-craft. As to skivers - many people think that by having activated the sharpening wheel and sparks have quit flying - the bell knife is now sharp. Well only half way home - you still have to eliminate the burr from the inside of the bell knife. You omit that step - results will be poor. Cussing will get loud. Manufacturers and engineers blamed. All cause of the burr.

Naaaah - the only prob is, that you have to sit down and read/learn how to set the parameters within the different programs and sub-programs of your particular VFD. And they are all a tad different - but lots of info an the internet. You just gotta go through all that data entry step by step for the first time or to change/readjust settings to your likings - but all in all they are "bullet proof"

As shown in the vid. Lots of penetrating oil - I would moderately heat the knob with a heat gun - moderately, it is bakelite - then insert a tight fitting screw driver into the slot in the shaft just wiggle the shaft in tiny motions back and forth while at same time pulling on the knob. For the screw driver you may have to pillage an old kitchen knife and "massage" it to wanted shape with angle or bench grinder - the slot in the shaft is quite narrow but wide. Greetings Hans

I would advise you to just add a VFD to reduce motor rpm. I built a portable unit (s) - you can then use it on different machines. If you build one - you might as well build two - very little more effort needed. Sell the better looking one - the one left over cost nigh none. hope that helps you out, Hans Who actually prefers the superior ability to feather a mechanical clutch system manually via pedal over the electronic version and runs all of his 3-phase clutch motors over such device(s) as shown in the pics. It´s sort of like driving a truck with a manual or automatic tranny - on the automatic you cant really feather the clutch. Anyway, this is definitely one of the most fruitful DIY projects you can make for yourself - trust me. I actually consider it as a TOOL to manipulate the motor to perform the way I need it for my exact application. You will never ever want to miss it again. You can program in a stop mode - so your motor comes to a complete stop within x amount of secs when you press the stop button or by switch - it transforms the old clutch motors into a whole different beast.

Another thing - I like reversing the push - pull action on my pedals. Instead of straining my ankle muscles to reproduce the action same as pressing down a gas pedal in a car --- I prefer a heel rest and then push down with my toes and the ball of my feet on the front edge of the pedal. You just have to reroute some cables and fix-points. I find this method much less tiring and I also get better action feathering the clutch - remember : I run clutch motors in combo with a VFD On the foot lift an my Adler 4 and 5 - if is definitely easier to use mentioned method - just step down on the front of the pedal instead of having to "boot it" (like in a car). This is a pure matter of choice/preference - but I would personally never go back.

One more tip that I can give any Pfaff owner - buy yourself a GOOD 1/4 inch drive metric socket set. With the better ones, each bit has its´own socket - the screw driver bits are sharp and short - the most important thing. When removing needle plate screws - I want a real shorty - 1/4 inch bit with a stub handle - that´s all you need on a sewing machine. Hand tight is enough for most screws. I tapped the 2 on the bed for the edge guide to M4 and used short allenheads - beats the stock knurled "hour glass" style screws Another tip - to keep the table uncluttered - buy some magnets. On the 138, get rid of the stock spool holders - get a decent thread stand - and put a big magnet on the flat metal lid - it´ll stay there all by itself. Bobbins, scissors and other tools stay put on magnets and you know exactly where they are - should you need them. That goes for every sewing machine. Nother advantage - your screwdriver is always fully magnetized when you take it from the magnet - on some small screws that is downright handy. Greetings Hans

Here is a review of the 138-6/21BS - some good info. https://www.ashleyandthenoisemakers.com/blog/2015/3/7/pfaff-138-review-1 Greetings Hans Who has both colour machines - and loves them for any fabric and vinyls and tarps -- just not the most favorite for leather - I prefer a compound or walking foot for that.

Sounds like your 138 has sat for a long time and is crying out for oil. Unscrew the round knob for stitch length adjustment and oil everything - open the lid right above the adjustment knob and also oil every moving part from the top. Actually, flood the whole machine with oil and keep working all moving parts until it operates and runs smoothly. The 138 also does not have a timing belt - it is gear driven. Now these gears are housed inside an upper and a lower plastic encasement - remove those housings, clean them and repack with good grease - the old stuff often resembles clay. If a screw is stuck, insert a good and tight fitting screw driver into the head slot and hit the handle of the screw driver with a hammer/mallet to free the threads - a manual impact driver is sometimes necessary on really stuck candidates. Soak stuck hook with penetrating oil or rust remover - throw the WD40 as far from you as you can - it is NOT a good solution for stuck threads or stuck anythings - in my eyes it is one of the most useless "wonder solutions" out there - a complete waste of cash. Now Ballistol on the other hand, does work - many a gun owner has it in his arsenal. Jup - 6mm is right. The ZigZag setting knob also adjusts needle position placement (left, center, right) - you have to assure that the hook can grab the loop in all 3 settings. Be gentle with that big plastic knob - it becomes brittle with age - if you break it, replacement is expensive as well as rare. Do NOT force things - take your time - haste often produces costly mistakes - avoid such. Greetings Hans

Are you sure that you are using needle 130/705 h and that the needle is fully inserted to its´stop in the needle bar ? Pfaff recommends using a 110 needle in the 138 when making adjustments. On the 138 you have to raise the needle bar 2mm from lowest point of needle travel when setting hook timing. Here is a free copy of the user manual : https://manualsnet.com/pfaff/138 attached below is the service manual for the 138 Greetings Hans BA Pfaff 138.pdf

Hi, I recently aquired a pedal to use it for foot lift on my Adler 5-8 through our German Craigs list - the seller could tell me nothing other that it was found in the attic. Is is nicely cast from (for?) a company named Adamson, in Leeds - works like a charm and is made pretty solid. Cast markings are BSO and 42 - the year 1942 could match - was BSO a foundry ? Does it stand for Button Sew On ? I searched the net, but all I came up with was a pic of a button sewing-on machine : https://www.abebooks.co.uk/Adamson-Button-Sewing-On-Machine-Styles-135142/4008403843/bd#&gid=1&pid=1 There is one on ebay as well - it does not have same pedal but definitely the same company logo (writing) : https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/175833083383? Does anybody know if Adamson made any other sewing machines ? Any info appreciated, cause i had never heard of them before. Greetings Hans

The only reason I recommended an Adler in last posting is `cause here in Germany, their country of origin, there is a friendly rivalry between Pfaff and Adler (owners). Sort of as amongst car nerds who is best out of GM, Ford and Mopar. As we all know Ford stands for : Fix Or Repair Daily - Found On Road Dead or F...ed On Race Day Naturally it´s all just in jest, to pull the other guy´s leg. Like recommending to make much better use of his sewing machine as boat anchor, large paper weight or door stopper. Better yet - just buy an Adler cause they´re built solid. Greetings Hans Who likes his Adlers just as well as his Pfaff 138 ZigZag

If you`re packing a thick wad and are not shy spending coin on good equipment - I would recommend an Adler 205. If you have to be frugal - one of its´many clones from China. Greetings Hans

These Pfaff sewing machines had a 134 bottom end with a 145 top end affixed to it - meaning they did not have the safety clutch. H1 means very small foot lift - class B means needle size 80 to 100. It has the small hook and small bobbin. It is a machine for sewing thin material with thin thread only - within that needle and therefore thread range it will make good stitches If that is not what you need/intend to use it for - I would shy away from buying it. If however you want to sew lightweight tent material or make hammocks and other stuff from parachutes or use linnen, tarps, bedsheets - then the machine is in its´elements - though you may prefer a ZigZag machine for such projects. Of course you can also sew leather with it - but real thin stuff with tiny hidden thread - some times you want to produce that look. Size 80 to 100 needle would be good for T-45 thread = metric 60 thread , metric 40 would be crowding the needle eye in some leather- that is thin stuff in the leather world for use as top thread. Greetings Hans

The above should be noted when choosing to buy a Pfaff or using it in your armada. Pfaff set up their machines according to what is stamped into the brass plate. This means needle to hook clearance and also thread clearance within the hook - bobbin system. So if you for example take a machine from the "B" class - which is set up from the factory to run needles from 80 to 100 - and think without knowing : well my 335 can handle way bigger - you will NOT get satisfactory stitches - without doing a lot of readjustment and even different parts. This has probably caused a lot of head scratching over the years with people who had Pfaffs that did not work - but Pfaff made you run within a limited parameter of needle/ thread thickness. They never proclaimed to have one machine that can do it all - they custom tailored their machines to limited needle size = thread size --- thus the machines made beautiful stitches within set parameters. That was their strategy back then - proved them right - they earned a name for quality. Now you have to beware for your own good, when buying used - the older used industrial Pfaff sewing machines were most always designated to some very specific factory sewing job. Some set up for sewing gloves and thin stuff - small needle , small stitch Some set up for sewing sandals or other thick leather. Only advice I can give :you MUST read the brass plate and see if the machine is suited for your exact application. If it is not - do not buy it and waste your time and money trying to change it - it is NOT worth ist - just buy the right model. Or an Adler. Greetings Hans

Okay, this will take a minute. The Pfaff are divided into classes from light to heavy caliber machines : A , B , C and D A = needle size 60 to 80 B = needle size 80 to 100 C = needle size 100 to 140 D = needle size 150 to 180 Then there are sub classes : A/B , B/C , C/D ----- these have the small hook and bobbin but the large needle hole H1 , H2, H3 and H4 stands for the maximum foot lift - with H4 I think being 11mm (don´t quote me on that last figure) So your Paff is type 335 -- model 132 -- has the small hook and bobbin but the large needle hole (80 to 140) and probably a max. foot lift of 10mm Hope that helps you out Hans