Tigweldor

No - I bought the "naked" Adler for 55€ in Wuppertal - + 200 klicks of driving. The seller, knowing that there was a broken part and not having told about it in the ad, had either hid in the house or had fled - his mother was there with the machine in the driveway - needless - I would have bought it even with the broken part. I found out about the fault at home - so I needed a fix for that. Exactly cause of that, I bought the 29K-51 with pretty close to 200 klicks of driving the next weekend in Meschede for 20€ - but this time the sewing machine came with a treadle table - but with a broken casting lip on the foot take up lever. This was a chance buy - but it worked out - parts from both machines were a 100% match - could have been completely different. I could have then sat there with two useless duds on my hands and little to show for cash and time and effort. But if you don´t take a chance once in a while - life will be dull. So all in all I spent 75€ plus 400 klicks in my car (Kangoo = around 10l/100km at 1,7€/liter = around 70€ gasoline) - i don´t regret one single hour or one single Cent. This is not counting my time, as I wanted a patcher that could handle the bigger bobbins. Every old sewing machine i get - I FLOOD with oil. On these old patchers I take the sewing head off right away - that means removing 1 pin at the swingarm and 4 screws at the head. Then I take the head apart. You force an old machine to turn while stuck/frozen - that usually means that something is going to break - that will cost you more coin - completely unnecessary - like a young spud on his first date with no patience. (grin) I´m nigh on 63 years old by now - I have learned what patience is - used to be the exact opposite when I was young - take my word for it - I did force a lot of "things" that "broke" while doing so - and regret a many of them. That is the main thing bad about hard core biker life style - but even after having turned into a realist, I do not like to be taken for a "softy". Greetings Hans

Looks like that poor Singer has seen a very damp shed for numerous years - not that this is not "fixable" - but it sure will be a lot of work - for a non compound flat table sewing machine - again one of those "Liebhaber"-projects with a wage under 3€/h when/if you ever sell it. Greetings Hans who has fallen into the same "trap" numerous times - loved every moment of it until it became time to sell the unit

If you stitch through a sanding belt - your needle wouldn´t last very long at all - might even rip the thread - should be clear if you use your head. So glue is the way to go - maybe use double sided tape to quicken things up - it comes as wide as your belt and doesn´t cost an arm and a leg. Also, you would have to have your leather dyed aforehand - the polishing compound is mostly made from some sort of tallow/wax - you would not achieve proper dye penetration where the compound goes over the edge of the leather due to the soft felt wrapping around the edge - it would clog the pores of the leather and be very hard to remove once there. Now canvas would be a different matter - it is harder and has little to no "hair" that will not wrap around the edge of the leather. Just my opinion after watching the video. But this is what a forum is for - you gotta input your brain storms and get feedback that you didn´t think of yourself. I like such procedure. Greetings Hans Who has had many a thought dismissed/cancelled by valid arguments of others - most of them who had more experience on a topic than I did.

I guess, that hardness is not all that important - unless it comes to different kinds of wood. Glass is harder than steel - else you couldn´t clean your Ceran stove top with steel wool and methyl alcohol without leaving a single scratch. On the other hand, I haven´t seen any glass burnishing wheels being available commercially - some people in this here forum suggest spark plugs - the corpus of them is ceramic - I don´t know if that is harder than glass - gotta check into that. Since I don´t like to fart around but rather get right into it - I have ordered one of these brass burnishers from Chinesistan - as well as some hand burnishers made from some dark indescript Asian hardwood - didn´t cost much - I will use/try these in my flexible shaft grinder. I ordered a round chunk of maple as well - let my bud do some work in return for all the welding I´ve done for him free of charge. They do say that one hand is to wash another - so far he seems to be a "no armed bandit" in that game (grin) Any method sure beats having to burnish the edges of a belt by hand with a canvas rag with the old "jerk off motion" - not at the price I am charging for my merchandise. As the Chinese have stashes for their merchandise all over Europe, I expect quick delivery - the one thing a body sure as heck can not do, is knock their prices. And I will say one thing that is sure as horse dung : if they completely close shop and play a hard game in this trade tariff war - the rest of the world is f....ed. You wouldn ´t be able to buy a single ball bearing or a seal - all has been outsourced mainly to Chinesistan and the few remaining US Timken plants would have to deliver to the army and not to civilians any more. Just take a look at say Timken bearings for your Harley swingarm - on the package it says - made in the USA - on the bearing it says made in China or made in India - and they both are part of the BRIC (= Brazil, Russia, India, China) But : since talking politics on a forum is generally bad news - so I´ll quit right now and hope we all get along peacefully. Greetings Hans

Well, answered my own question at home - says it right on the Motor : 1/2 inch - couldn´t see that on my phone display - the monitor of my home computer has better image / more pixels.

Hi Dwight, Great - thanks for the tip. Maple grows here in Europe - thought i had to get some fancy exotic wood - been researching and found sandlewood used -- don´t think that it grows around my neighborhood though. Beeswax and canvas is no probs either - have lots of bees wax as I make my own leather balm / polish - haven´t bought any commercial stuff for nigh on 25 years now - easy stuff to melt together on any stove and a metal pot. Been reading other posts and they suggest that they run their burnisher at half speed, which would be pretty close to 3000 rpm - but they didn´t state the burnishing wheel diameter - need that to calculate surface speed in meter per second. I like the slightly more scientific approach to such matters - makes me feel more confident - which is probably complete "placebo thinking" - but that´s the way i tick. @ toxo : I will try the belt sander method as well - know of a small manufacturer of sanding belts just out of town - I´ll give them a call and ask if they can´t sell me some belt material before grinding particles are added to the belting - the diagonal cuts at the right length and applying the tape I can manage myself. I´ll just cut an old sanding belt along its´seem as a template. Maybe even make the whole belt from canvas and ZZ stitch it together. The old Pfaff 138 can produce a pretty wide ZZ. Greetings Hans

leather belts online have a variety of metal tips - but nothing plain and nothing in my wanted price range. https://leatherbeltsonline.com/?s=belt+tips&post_type=product on etsy there are a few good ones to boot - but all in the end consumer price range the buckleguy used to have some lovely pointed ones made from plain brass - but not listed any more on their web site - maybe give them a call where they got them from. You can polish them real easy and get them nickle plated - wouldn´t cost much if you polish and afterwards hang them on the wires for plating yourself. That´s where the cost for plating goes up big time - not in the process itself. Found some here in Germany - will order some - price will go way down if you order quantity : https://www.lederstrumpf-shop.de/de/Guertelspitzen-9B_12823/A2.html Greetings Hans

Hi, What shaft size are these Harbour Freight sanding drums made for ? Thanks in advance Hans

Are these brass burnishers any good - I do have a big Pferd Mammut flexible shaft grinder where I can set speed over gear box up to 12 000 rpm. Anybody ever use these with success ? https://de.aliexpress.com/item/1005004360400374.html?spm=a2g0o.productlist.main.41.5823PFncPFncGj&algo_pvid=a81055c6-63c5-488e-b2fd-95775b1e9a79&algo_exp_id=a81055c6-63c5-488e-b2fd-95775b1e9a79-20&pdp_ext_f={"order"%3A"18"%2C"eval"%3A"1"}&pdp_npi=4%40dis!EUR!3.37!0.99!!!3.55!1.05!%40211b80c217431654469137732ea442!12000028901065385!sea!DE!0!ABX&curPageLogUid=WDyAAavtk6WV&utparam-url=scene%3Asearch|query_from%3A Greetings Hans

Hi, Still have a few motors kicking around the shop - want to make a motorized burnisher out of one of them. What is the best wood to use for the burnishing wheel ? Guess it is something like oak or harder - wood is not really my specialty - so any tips will be appreciated. Have a bud with a wood lathe - but I want to approach him with at least the wood in hand - he likes to moan and groan a lot if has to dip into his own stash - want to avoid that. Greetings Hans

Hi Bob, Thanks for the tip - I will definitely use it / do it that way. Got lots of 40 x 40 x 5 (= around 1,5 x 1,5 x 3/16 in inches) angle iron in the shop. Greetings Hans

only the parts manual : https://usermanual.wiki/ace-eastman-pdf/pfaff195595.348266863

I myself can only use one sewing machine at the time - so I see it as a very minor problem to unplug one socket and plug in another when switching to a different machine. After all - I´m a hobbyist and don´t have to run a commercial set up with multiple machines being run simultaneously. But yes, it is nicer to have a VFD for every machine - on the other hand, I have additional hobbies as well - coin sunk into one hobby will directly affect how much I can spend on my other projects. That is the way I look at it - some times you have to improvise and be frugal. Latter does not mean being cheap - it does however mean to consider/plan how available coin is spread most cost effective. And the chance of industrial tear downs with a booty of one or two "free" VFDs does not come along every day - my crystal ball is kind of cloudy right now as to when it will happen again. So I´m back to Craigs list in the meanwhile. Greetings Hans

Here is a manual for free download with all steps needed explained : https://www.manualslib.com/products/singer-111w155-352881.html Greetings Hans

Yup - it sure is. This is a picture of the defective but crudely repaired part. If I were to live 20 klicks south of Timbuktu where no spare parts are available, I might have tried to weld up the missing piece inside the ring and then try to grind it smooth. BUT : time is also money - so why bother, when I was in the position to buy a complete "parts machine" for 20€ - with a singer treadle table to boot for that small price ? Not only that - I wanted to point out that the Singer 29K51 head fits 1:1 as replacement for the Adler30-7 head - the only difference being that the foot pressure spring on the Adler is external on the back of the machine (spring bar) where as the 29K51 has a coil spring right inside the head to accomplish same thing. I thought to have pointed out all of this in the answers before - but then again, English is not my mother tongue so it may not have come across clearly. The part in the pic has meanwhile landed in my scrap metal bucket, as I have no further use for it - with not a single tear lost over that act.