Kate

Hey Bruce, Well, that makes sense, but the hole in the lower tube is like half an inch deep - makes me think there was an insert of some type. I have worked with some of the old riveted brake setups - ugh.... yes, I'm old, and USED to be a mechanic of sorts (runs in the family, for better or worse). The band brakes etc would still need to have a more or less flush surface - ie, rivet set into a hole in the liner, below the friction surface. I'm thinking maybe I'll make up an anvil from a chunk of brass and see if it will press the little light tubular rivets - tired of smacking my poor old arthritic thumbs! STill got to get a pic of the other thing - it's really pretty neat (for a boat anchor Kate

Hey Deadeye, if there's ONE thing that all of those stitching horses need, it's to have the ground seat shaved down on the edges of seat! Even the thickest chunk of sheepskin won't soften those edges, and I can guarantee (from past experience) that it's not gonna be too comfy after a long session. I do kinda like the second photo - the legs are set into the braces, nice woodworking to last a good long while. Kate

I'v ehad a very old Rex Riveter for ages - cute little thing in great shape, other than missing about 80% of its Japanned finish.... oh, and there's a spring loaded tube on the bottom the appears to be missing somethign - and I have no clue what. Anybody out there able to tell me what goes into that open tube? The upper piston has a splash shape to it, so my first guess is some sort of brass anvil thingy goes in the bottom, but I have never actually seen one of these things in use! Oh, and I also have an even older similar machine, made to be wall mounted. It looks like it needs a piece that sticks on the upper ram - but I'll have to get pics of that one, as it's hard to explain. I'll be back later on, with that!

Can't help you with the air piston idea, but I just got Weaver Leather's DVD of machinery demos - WOW..... There's a crank operated hole punching machine that really turns my crank! The thing had me mesmerized, I watched the part three times, before I went and snagged hubby to see it! It works like a huge hole punching sewing machine. Too darn cool. I WANT ONE!!!! big sigh. Kate

The main reason "bridle" leather feels better is the oils and fats they run into the hide during the tannage and finishing process. I don't think I would try to do much carving or stamping on bridle leather, though. If you are using carving leathers, they will usually dry fairly stiff as they are finished, especially after dying, in my experience. When I have a piece DONE, I let it dry and then re-oil and treat it with a good conditioning - for my gunleather I've always rubbed in and then WARMED in a beeswax/neatsfoot compound, then do a final rubbing and buff to bring up the sheen. This works beautifully for horse gear too! The resultant finish is better outdoors, less liable to spot if it gets rained on, and if you get a scuff it's easy to fix it with the original finish. All of the "sheen" topcoat products are not really for horse gear, they are for decorative or apparel (ie, belts and purses) items. They also prevent adequate oiling later on - or at least, the item will take oil and soap unevenly. That's a good lookin' roanie in your avatar!

Here's an update, to say that Ryan Neel has kindly sent me a two page instructional document, and I am now practicing up on making tidy lap skives! The machine works very well..... the operator needs to run through another five pounds of scrap in practice. Ya learn something new every day.

Hey Dave, did you get your 42 up and running? Which version did it turn out to be? I have an operators manual for it (and I think there's a parts manual too) that I downloaded off the Singer industrial site. VERY helpful to have those.... Kate

DING DING DING DING! We have a winnah! The fit makes the holster, IMHO. Once the belt is buckled down on mine, you could hold me up by my feet and shake me and the gun would stay in the holster. Secure retention is all of it for a carry rig, even concealment comes in (a close) second. Well, comfort is pretty high up there too, especially for us older ladies who tend to be a bit softer than we were in our youth. Nothing like a dehorned hammer in the ribs to drive that particular point home, so to speak

I agree with Kevin, it looks like your top thread is NOT running between the tension disks. You can unscrew the nut and take the whole assemble apart easily, then clean and POLISH the disks (dremel and cratex point works well) to make sure you don't have snaggies. I have run across some older machines that had tension disks stuck together by petrified oil and dirt, and one that had them RUSTED together tightly. Also agree with Steve, if your bobbin case is in the least questionable, replace it. Have met three machines that the bobbin case actually had a groove worn under the tension spring and it prevented accurate adjustment. KAte

Cool! Thanks for the pic Brent. How's Texas treating you guys? Still have the big Landis, but did get a new Cobra and am in 7th stitching heaven Kate

That looks to me like the maker used a "pull up" leather, ie, one that when flexed will show lighter or darker areas as the grain is flexed. Siegel of California usually has this type on hand, it's pretty interesting stuff for chaps etc. Kate

Now, THAT'S funny! Trouble is, I need to make the edge BLACK first! Leather is black on flesh and grain side and pretty brown in the middle, so got to blacken that somehow. So, back to my old methods of dye dauber, THEN a sealing coat of whatever? Was hoping to cut out an extra step, but maybe not possible. Thanks Kevin, Kate

Intended use is for bridles - and I don't really want black edge finish rubbing off on white horses! So, open to suggestions - favorite products to blacken edges on this bridle leather prior to burnishing? Or after, if that works better.

HEAR! HEAR! that adequately describes the general condition of the Davis Vertical Feed industrial (leather) machine I had for a while. The only one of its kind I have ever seen anyplace, the poor wee thing (all 80 pounds of her) was literally hung together underneath with hardware store nuts and washers. The only needle was a something-else round shank that had a flat inaccurately ground on one side, and even the self described industrial expert on the Needlebar site could not tell me what needles to look for! The bobbin was home made from a box nail and a brass washer brazed on the other end..... the shuttle had a monster chip from the pointed end that I had to stone the bejaysus out of to get her to pick up the thread. I had it a year, finally found needles that would sew in it (for Singer button sewing machine) and promptly found her a new home with another fanatic - er, old sewing machine person. Now HE has a nice boat anchor and I have more room in the shop! Warm welcomes, and hope you have a fun ride here! Kate

Well, this is really fascinating. I've been a fairly inactive member of Needlebar for a LOOOONG time, but when I tried to log on today, I find that I nave been "manually deleted". In checking into Alan's latest pronouncement from above, it appears that he has co-opted ALL of the images etc on the site as his own property - that would include several that I provided of machines I have owned, just to add to the knowledge base. I guess it's a logical progression of what has been going on there for the past several years - getting stickier and ickier. What machines did you need info on? I know a LOT of people who are purely into old machines Possibly could hook you up! Kate (was Kate on the Left Coast on Needlebar and Treadleon)

Hey Russ, that's a helpful short cut! Will have to give that one a try. I'm pretty sure that it will be easier to make repeated skives that way than by another way - as I said, I just have not figured out how the dang thing works, and have had it sitting in the shop for several years now. THanks very much for you kind reply. Kate

REALLY not having any luck at all in searching for a tutorial or instruction on using a bench splitter to do skiving. I have one that was sold by Neel Saddlery, but have not been able to successfully do much with it. Any advice would be MOST welcome!

That had better be a PRETTY 31-15 for $250. Mostly they are fairly cheap with no table setup - a decent table with motor and clutch (or servo if you are lucky) will run you at least twice that much! The 31 class was mainly a higher speed machine for apparel work, not really a leather stitcher per se, though as others are telling you, with a roller presser you would be good for lighter leathers. 31-15 has a larger sister the 31-20, which I have in an industrial table with motor and clutch setup. It's great for upholstery, and even horse blankets within reason, but you are limited in height under the foot. You can squeeze to layers of 8 ounce under the foot, but feedign will become an issue, and then your stitch quality will definitely suffer. FWIW, I now have a beautiful new Cobra class 3 and I will never go back to a lesser stitcher. Still have the old 31-20, and a Singer 42-5 in a treadle for chap work, along with the inimitable Landis #1 heavy stitcher, but this new one, wow..... just wow. Never knew it could be this easy! (thanks Steve!) Kate

I'm looking for a product to black and finish edges on black bridle leather that is not dye-struck, ie, not black clear through to the center. Leather is lovely, edges and burnishes beautifully, but I will be needing to blacken and finish cut and punched edges. Saw this product on the Zack White Leather site, and am wondering how it works out? Any advice welcomed - or if you have another thought, that too! Kate

Good gravy, did you see the final price that old Landis brought!?!? I better go out to the shop and give my Landis 30 a loving pat! Not that it will ever be for sale, but wowee... it should be gold, not green. I did find a manual for the 30, I think it came from the Crispin Colloquy forum - shoe and bootmakers, fascinating group of folks - and if I can find it again, I could send it if that would be helpful.

OK, question one, who is your supplier? and are these actual hides, or the horse butts (which is all I have been seeing for many years)? Since the butts are sold by the pound... Well, I guess harness backs are sold by the pound too, but most leather is per square foot, hence my question. I do use horsehide, love the stuff, but every now and then you do get an odd piece - I got an appy piece once, ended up having to do black out of it and the posts STILL showed, almost like watermarked silk. It was COOL.

I too have a gorgeous new Cobra 3 - love that machine. Steve is a real peach, always there for my silly questions - I am real old fashioned and that level of customer service makes my whole day If you get that foot made, I want to see it! (heck, I bet Steve wants to see it too!) Kate

I have a Singer 42-5, that's one with the big hook and bobbin. It's not real pretty, but in fine shape mechanically. Bobbins are a little hard to find for it, as is a bobbin WINDER - I cheated a new one to fit. This is an alternating presser machine, not great feeding for much over a couple of layers of 9-ounce veg tan, but SUPERB stitch quality for doing chaps and the like. I am running 29 class wedge point needles in it - yep, same needle as the Singer 29 class patcher uses - and they run just fine. You can get them in the whole range of sizes and points, so it really makes the machine worthwhile. Mine is in a treadle stand - love that silent running Kate

Bill, thank you. The man in Arkansas called Bob, who agreed to sell him a shuttle. Now we are both being blessed from Arkansas. Feels good, doesn't it? Kate

That would be Jerry Van Amburg, different name and different website http://vanamburgleathers.com/wordpress/ 310-452-3581 (Tel) / 310-452-3521 (FAX) 143 CEDAR STREET, BLACKFOOT, IDAHO 83221 Been looking for a good supplier of lizard skin, so thanks for that heads-up! Kate