Wizcrafts

All upholstery shops have walking foot machines. Every now and then they buy a new machine and retire an older one. Call around to any upholstery shops to see if or what they have available to sell. If a walking foot machine is still in good working condition, it may sell for between $500 and $800. Anything less means the machine is in questionable condition. A bonus of buying a used upholstery machine is that they seller knows how to thread, oil and adjust the machine. They can demo the machine for you, and may even teach you how to take care of it yourself. This is worth a lot of good karma, and will save you headaches down the road. A lot of new members on LWN ask basic operating questions because the bought a machine from somebody that didn't know anything about it, and couldn't demo or explain its operation. Another option is to try to locate an industrial sewing machines dealer near you, go there in person, and buy a new or used machine after getting hands-on instructions.

I also have a Singer 107w in my shop. It is handy for jobs requiring a zig-zag stitch. It can sew with #69 bonded thread into 5-6 ounce chrome tanned shoe upper leather, like that tanned by S.B. Foot. But, that's not all it's good for. I also use the 107 to sew linings and cloth that would be eaten by my walking foot machines. To do this I move the stitch width selector on the back to zero throw. This places the needle on one side of the presser foot. I use the stitch length knob on the rear to get a longer stitch. The maximum throw is about 1/4 inch, or slightly wider. While this wouldn't be a first machine to buy for a leather shop, it would be a good addition. Your first machine should be a compound feed walking foot machine. An example is the out-of-production Singer 111w155.

This is a question that you should ask the manufacturer, if you can find their website, and if they have a contact form. If you can't find the manufacturer, contact the company that sold you the machine. Maybe they know how to reach the builder. You attempted to link to a flat bed attachment, but neglected to include the URL. Please try again.

That part is known as the "latch opener." It should be set to pull back on the bobbin case as the thread goes around it, then let go after the thread knot is pulled up past the notch in the throat plate. There is a small amount of wiggle room in that cutout for the little tab on the bobbin case/shuttle to move forward and backward. Pulling it back at the right moment frees the thread to go up without hindrance. It should not be set to pull back hard against its stopped position. Leave a tiny amount of clearance at the pulled back position so you don't break anything or wear out the pulled parts.

The Class 26 is not a 441 clone. Its maximum needle size is probably a #24 or #25, but a 25 might be aweful close to the feed dog hole diameter. Ask the dealer. The Class 26 is not too heavy duty for wallets and belts as long as you use #92 thread with a #19 needle or larger. I don't know how well it nandles #69 thread and #18 needles.

I have a Kenmore 158 that I used to use in my shop when I had to sew cloth and linings. It is a good machine and was well built. I don't know about the availability of parts though. I think they are strong enough to sew soft leather, or to sew patches onto vests, but not over pockets. The Adler you have is a 30-70, not the other way around. ;-) It is a great machine for sewing patches over sleeves and pockets, or for sewing in zippers.

The cb3200 is one of the 441 class sewing machines, but, at 1/2 inch, it has less thickness capacity than the cb4500 and similar large models. The arm is shorter too, measuring in at 10.5 inches. Other than that, it uses the same needles, bobbins and thread. However, the Cowboy raised holster and stirrup plates are too tall for the 3200 due to its lower thickness capacity. Further, the optional drop-down edge guide doesn't fit on the 3200. If most of your projects will be between 1/8th and 1/2 inch thickness, this machine will serve you very well.

Yeppers! You scored the Motherload with that type of adjuster. You can position the brake pad as close or far away as you want, within the limits of the housing.

The more the slack, the better. Do whatever it takes to move the brake pad away from the clutch drive plate. If it's already on the verge of engaging, back off the screw to give it more hold vs motion time. Somebody with a shop should come up with an adjustable clutch/brake pad accessory for these motors.

Run on is the reason for leaving the brake on. But, open the motor housing where the lever comes out and look to see is there is a screw adjustment to preposition the lever downward, or to move the brake pad outward. If so, you can move the lever down to a point where the cork just engages, then fine tune it so it to minimize the free play before it engages with the motor. Some folks have actually sanded down the cork brake pad to get more movement before it hits the metal drive plate. That's the ideal situation. Clutch motors have an adjustment for free play that most servo motors lack.

You can read or download the documentation directly from Adler's website, here. There have been discussions about this model on Leatherworker.net. Just use our search box to search for all topics containing the term: Adler 269-373

@reveau There is an online manual for the Efka Variostop sewing machine motors, here. Page 25 deals with the motor's brake action. You must study the manual to learn how to set the braking action to get the motor to stop when you take your foot off the speed control pedal. Please note that the brand name is EFKA, not ELKA.

That needle alignment is weird. It appears to be too far forward in the hole. A proper alignment is dead center front to back. The needle clamp itself can be moved sideways to get closer or farther away from the hook. Remove that clamp and check for foreign material that might be causing the needle to sit on an angle. Maybe the clamp screw is loose. Tighten it after centering it sideways.. If this doesn't solve the problem, maybe the throat plate has two different size holes. Rotate the plate if the other hole is larger. Also, that needle looks very large. Try a smaller needle.

If the needle is splitting the top thread on the way into the material, your check spring ie either not properly set, or is accidentally bypassed, or is missing. The purpose of a check spring is to maintain some tension on the top thread as the take-up arm moves down. The assembly should have a bottom stopper bracket that can be adjusted to stop the downward movement of the spring at a position where the needle has just entered the top of the material. The spring action should be adjustable too. Set it to just hold the thread taut. This should solve the thread splitting problem.

Almost any walking foot machine based on the design of the Singer 111w155 will do that work. Look in your local ads for a SInger 111w155, a Juki LU-563, a Consew 205rb-(number), or any other brand that has triple (compound) feed. They are usually found in upholstery shops and they sell them off when they buy new machines. Expect to pay between $500 and $1200 for a good condition walking foot machine.