spur2009

Donnie - There is a book on english saddle and harness making. The title is "Saddlery and Harness Making" by Paul L. Hasluck. This book was originally published in 1904 but is still available (I have a copy). Believe you could locate a copy on the internet say possibly AMAZON. Good luck. I do right much english repair in my shop and I hate it but business is business and a feller has to make a living.

Never - Never use compound. On older saddles will tuen it damn near black in a hurry. That nasty stuff is in compound not pure.

Everyone is pretty much right on. Ain't much I can add. In ref to Wesson oil. It's great and I have used it for yrs. However, you don't have to buy the expensive stuff. You can do the same with generic oil as long as it is 100% veg oil. Also do not use neat lac or other laquer type finishes as them cause way to many problems. Your silver conchos will shine right up with tooth paste. By the way, I really like Black Rock for a final finish on saddles and othe leather grear.

I have Alain's book and can tell you it is excellent. Been doing this for many yrs and am still amazed at some of his work. I have communicated with him numerous times. He is certainly an honorable and trustworthy gentemen. Can assure you that if you do indeed purchase his book it will be money well spent.

The book you mention is excellent and worth twice the money. You can't believe some of the saddles he has brought back. I am fortunate that he sent me a signed copy for free. Sure worth your while. By the way - I have a Tio Myers in excellent shape, been in the family a long time and there ain't enough cash money to buy it. Good luck with yours - give it a try, you sure as hell ain'tgot nothing to loose.

I also clean and condition a heck of a lot of nasty saddles. I sure enough like Murphy's Oil Soap. I sure would recommend that you do not use yellow paste saddlesoap. If you use saddlesoap use bar glycerine or liquid glycerine saddlesoap (fiebings is excellent). Whichever soap you use (dish washing detergent also works well) be sure a rinse off soap prior to applying oil which should be applied in several light coats. Applying first coat of oil while saddle is still damp allows for better oil penetration. Good luck.

I have been building saddles for better than 50 yrs but sorry to say I ain't learned how to build one put of cabbage leaves

I use flat plate riigings (553's) for inskirt rigged sadles all the time. They work perfect

What you have found is a model 1904 miliary saddle. The 1904 was the first to me made in brown color and was made thry 1940. my father rode one like this chasing Poncho Villa around Mexico and during WW1. Weaver Leather carries a complete line of restoration pieces. Good Luck.

Bill - I have been using 10-12 OZ leather on headstalls, both lined and unlined, have have had very good luck with them. In fact the headstall on my personal using saddle is over 20 yrs old and going strong,

Great poem on you dad's old chaps. Reminds me of my grandad's old saddle on the wall in my shop

Howdy Hugh: I also like the old timer high backs and have restored many many over the years as well as doing a right good bit of musem restorations. I have quite a few in my own collection. Becareful however inusing them as the bars are mostly to shot and the gullts are to narrow. Take care and good luck on your latest treasure

The stirrup leather connector on your saddle, two pins and safety type pin was very popular in the 20's. Over they yrs have had a number come in my shop for repair with this type connector. Have a couple of sets in my save it box - I might need them sometime.

Reckon I have to go along in most part with Bruce. IThe majority of the saddles that I make are for working hands that do some heavy roping, both dally and hard and fast. I believe the filller must be a solid piece and nailed down to prevent twisting when saddle is roped from.

Not sure I want to get involved with this one, however, I guess I have to get my 2 cents in. I try not to judge the quality of other folks work but instead judge thequality of my own. I firmly believe that ifwhat you do does not have your name on it then it is not of a quality to leave your shop. I believe to the craftsman is his own best critic and should never settle for second best. Reckon I've spouted off enough on this subject.

Aemotor: In ref to your question. I never us 1 1/4" dish and rarely do I use a 1 1/2". I really like 1 3/4" and if a padded seat many times I will use a 2' cantle dish. The reason I utulize these measurements is that I like a real good pocket in my cantle after I lay in the final seat. I am sure other makers will respond with their preferences. Take care. Boomer

I agree that you can oi your saddle to much. Once or even twice a year is plenty. Make sure you use a very good quality oil. 100% pure neatsfoot, olive oil or even 100% vegatable oil (same as for salads) but make sure it is vegatable. Apply evenly to all parts of the saddle in light coats, one or two or maybe three should be sufficient. Give oil time to set up between applications and besure each application is light. I am not a fan of mink oil on tack (like on hunting boots however). I have applied a light application of BlackRock on tack after oiling for many years. An application of this product about every 4 months really keeps the leather conditioned and alive.Hope this helps a bit.

Can give you some info on your saddles. First the Porter. If you contact Porter of Phoenix and provide the them the number they will be able to provide a complete history on the saddle in question. On the "Famous Jumbo Brand" saddle. This maker founded his saddlery in Dallas,Texas in 1869. He used the "White Elephant" brand until 1902 and shifted the the Jumbo att that time. They continued making saddles thru the 1970's. Hope this helps out some

Joe - For the weight piece on the toe of the tap I use heavy skirting leather on about 1/4th of the tap in length. The edges of the weight piece must be the same as the body of the tap but the top of the piece can be any shape you desire, curved, scalloped,etc. Hope this makes sense to you

I agree that a diamond awl is the only way to go. I cut my stitching grove, dampend my leather and mark for my awl holes using a 5 or 6 to the inch stitching wheel. Nowis will punch my stitching holes three or four at a time using a stitching pony to hold my project, Practise with your hole so that you are punching your holes at a 45 degree angle. I sew with the leather slightly damp as it pulls in a sets your stitches bettr than sewing dry leather. Hope this helps out some.

I blieve you are right in thinking this is a Cicrle Y - so do I. Possibly made in mid-1970's

I have made a right many pair of taps over the years (recently got a grat pattern from Bob Park). Forbulldog taps I use 16oz skirt (unless lining with sheep for cold weather). These hold shape just fine and are used alot in my home country of southwest texas in the misquite bruch (we call them toe fenders). On eagle breaks I use 13-15oz and add a weitght piece on the bottom of each side of a tap toe keep the ends from turning or curling up. The weighted ends really work well when sorting or working cows. Have never hardened a set but have made bull dogs from heavy rawhide.Hope above helps a litttle.

Recommend you get a copy of "They Saddled the West" (possibly at your local library.. This book as a pretty good description of the santa fe and has a couple of excellent pictures. Also, recommend Timberline Saddle Tree Co, Vernal, Utah for the style tree you will ned. Good luck

Orthofles saddles are rather difficult to remove the skirts as the moveable joint as you call it is a screw/bolt assembly which is built into the tree bars. I recommend you just run your new strings thru the slots on seat jocket and rear jockey and replace conchos as before using a blood knot on your strings

I agree thta poundo boards are a poor cutting surface. I recommennd saftey glass. It does not get cut lines on the surface and does not dull your round knife. You can pick up on cheap at any auto junk yard/ Mine is the flat side window from an older model van.