spur2009

Can't really say good things about the Stohlman knives. However sure agree on the Comp or rose knives. You can find some real fine old ones at flea markets and yard sales. The knife should have a thin blade and ring if you thump it, if it makes a tump sound don't but it.

I have both round and head knives from 2" to 6" and have a total of 12. I use them contantly while saddlemaking. You can cut turns and curves with a head knife that you can't cut easily with a stright knife. Also nothinng skives leather like a good sharp head or round knife. They both look intimadating but with practice you will be lost without one.

Haven't tried it but might be worth a shot. Let us know how the deglazer works. Haven't tried it but might be worth a shot. Let us know how the deglazer works.

I have had a bunch come into the shop over the years. I use either dye thinner or de-natured or rubbing alcohol. Saddle Lac will get sticky as it is coming off. Be sure to remove all the saddle-lac and rinse well after the job is completed. Saddle can then we oiled or redyed as required.

I have been a guild member for about 30 years now and helped put on the 2010 show in St. Louis. In answer to your question. Yes it is open to the public. Non-guild members may view the competion pieces after the judging has been completed as well as individual guild's display tables and utilize the many venders who will be in ABQ. There are no strangers at the show so if you are in the area or have time to travel come on to the show and have a heck of a good time. I for one wouldn't think of missing it.

Dan - If you read my post again, I said that I recently fixed a Blevins Buckle that the pins broke loose and also that I have replaced many that were corroded. I didn't say the Blevins with broken pin were corroded nd they were real Blevins - not knock offs.

There is a knock off buckle with name H-C. They ar pretty fair bucles with brass pins and plain or leather covered sleeves. I just repaired one a couple of days ago that were Blevins and on one buckle the pins broke loose. I have had alot of corroded Blevins over the years, some had hardly anything left of the inside the leathers.

I did the first post on using bondo. It works, however, I agree that the cost and labor of doing the entire project is damn high and you would be better off as noted previously posted to just order a new tree and start from scratch.

Outstanding job. I also like the old saddles and restore many for collectors and musems. However, be very careful using one of these oldies. The gullets are usually to narrow for modern horses. Alao the bar length behind the cntle is 1 to 1 1/2" which really tear up a horses back and his kidneys. If you like the old style and intend to use it I strongly suggest that you order a new tree with specs to fit todays horses. Good luck and keep on working.

Over the past 40 years I have used quite a few different machines. I have been using the aero for a good 15 yrs and it does it all, leather, nylon and sheep or artifical fleece. You can't beat the price or the tech support. Am sure you are going to be plum pleased with your choice.

For a beginner or for that matter old pros, I recommend the Tipton Boss. This machine is easy to operate, is hand powered and will sew almost anything you might want to do on it. Tipman also has an excellent support staff that most always can help you rsolve problems over the phone. Good luck on whichever machine you decide on.

I agree with others on whicj side to pein the rivet. If the flat side is exposed I dome the rive cap - it looks more professional on finished goods - primarily saddles.

Here is a cheap and easy way to make a concho turner that works great. An old saddlemaker show me this trick 40 yrs or so ago. Just cut of a piece of old garden hose about an inch or 1 1/2 in length. Works far better that store bought ones.

This is simply done. The Bondo is formed from the seat and cantle back up past the cantle edge that you want to increase the height of. The areas where the bondo is placed in the seat section of the tree and on the bottom edge of the cantle back should be sanded to a feather edge.

I agree, you cannot make the cantle much higher without increasing the height of the cantle on the tree. This is no problem. After removing leather build up the cantle on tree with bondo. After this hardens you can file and sand to proper shape and thickness.

Can give you some history on the Rowell but came up blank on the Thomas. Harry Rowell was born in Peterborough, England. He joined th British Navy and after discharge went to Canada and then to Calif in 1912. He was a rancher and promoted rodes and in 1940 went into saddlemaking with Victor Alexander. In 1942 Alexander left the firm and the named chaged to Rowell Saddle Co. and he remained in the business untill 1961 with several shops in various Calif locations. Hope this info will be of some help to you.

Cowgirl. The stirrups and the fact that the saddle weight is 38 pounds leads me to believe that you have a saddle with a ralhide tree and probably made in the mid-70's. Let us know after you check the tree. Good luck.

As a long time custom saddlemaker I must agree with the abovepost. These wrinkle are caused by Flanky leather. Saddle seats should be cut from the very best part of the side. When laying out your pattern for the seat the front of the seat should be towards to shoulder (top) of side with cantle part of seat towards the bottom of the side which will give an even thickness of seat leather on both side of the seat when cut out. By inspecting the side before laying out your seat you will be able to determine the most prime part of the side and the flanky area which can be used for your swell cover which will require alot of stretch when fitting to tree. This should help avoid those wrinkles in your pictures. Hope this has been of some help to you.

You are correct in identifying this as an old Hope Tree. I have one in my antique collection. The fork was taken from a fork in a tree like a sling shot fork. The horn was carved on the handle end of the sling shot fork. This horn was prone to brek off and prior to making trees with iron horns they made bronze replacement horn to be used when the wooden horn broke off. These trees were very popular for use on the Morgan Breed horses.

Foster. I live in my boots and they have to stand up in all weather and long hours in the stirrup. I am a reat fan of Custom Rios of Mercedes. In fact ordered a new pair last week. However, they are kinfd of pricie to have custom made. I strongly recommend that you look on internet for Texas Prime and talk to Mr. Shipler about what you required. Be sure to tell him you want Honcho Boots. I have several pairs of them and they stand up very well under the test. Boomer

Have used several treemakers over the years. My favorite was Hercules. As they went out of business, I tried several others. I now use timberline only. They make a great tree to saddlemakers specs.

I have had to replace or install a number of knee rolls or pads. I agree you should make rolls from 4-5oz suede. I stuff the rolls with the sheep fleece that I clip off of scrap pieces of sheep left over from relining saddles. This sheep fleece is also real good for stuffing bucking rolls and restuffing pads on enlish and aussi sadddles (a job I really hate). Good luck.

I've riden a mess of different horses over the past 50-60 years and still keep up half a dozen qtr types. All my horses are and have been workin horses. I find a 32" cinch pretty near fits most horses I use it on. Once in awile I might go to a 34".

Bruce - Those EZ Dees are indeed first introduced by Hamley. I have two pair of right old ones on hand. I have made a number of Assn Bronc saddles and worked in a saddle shop in SDAK in 1975 that made the "Hawkeye Hensen" endorsed bronc saddle. All use the EZ Dee. Hope to see you at the IFOLG show in a couple of weeks. Boomer