MikTigger

Now wait a minute, I'm confused. So now it's a holster for Dog Chews? Maybe you better explain that a little better to yer pup. Seriously though, when I read the title, I thought, what a cool idea.

Nah, nah, nah! The stitching was perfect for such a thing. You just now need to make another Parang out of an old leaf spring and a leather-wrapped bone handle. I have to work hard to get a rugged look like that sometimes. And just immagine after a few year's hard use. The stuff I make for other people usually has to have tight stitching all canted the same direction, but the stuff I admire most when I'm out in the woods with my buddies is the rougher looking stuff.

Try shoesystemsplus.com http://shoesystemsplus.com/images/adler.pdf

I'm thinking in such a case, I'd use the small diameter sanding drum on a Dremel, and take down just a little at a time. Maybe even using a flex shaft so you can get a very controlled grip.

That is just too cool !!! Make sure you take a picture with him in it so he can see later on what kind of style he was riding in.

Nice clean design and work. I'm still trying to figure out how to get a nice mottled (sp?) look. Did it just turn out that way, or did you use different dyes? On the stitching, it looks like you didn't cut a groove first. I've been experimenting with grooving where I want stitches using a ball end modeling tool while the leather is still damp. I like the results so far, but I need to be more fluid with my lines. Cutting the surface with a grooving tool can make the dye darken the stitching lines and hide some inconsistent stitches (with regard to direction they lay). Getting the right shape on your awl, consistent angle and depth punching your holes, and being consistent with stitching order (front to back, first) makes the biggest difference of course. But I'm going for continual lines with the tooling idea, and I'm no good at pounding patterns.

Yes. I have it moved as close as possible. With the smaller 120 needle, I have it all the way to the right. It will stitch, and they're nice and tight and even once it does catch. But it's hard to get the top thread to pick up the bobbin thread. I think I just need to search through the advertisers here, and get some new needles and thread. If that doesn't make it reliably stitch, I'll take it to the local repair guy, and get him to set it up and have him show me some tips for different size applications. It'll have to wait until after Christmas at this point though. I'll probably start a new post with what the repair guy says. Incidentally, once it started stiching, the foot doesn't put such deep marks in the leather. No idea why, as the thread runs between the two feet. I suppose it's just happier.

Cool "patina"! Looks like it was made out of an old strap or something found in a barn. What did you pound it with? If I had a decent looking card holder like that, I suppose I'd get off my lazy butt and make up some more cards. If you're open to suggestions.....Based on the apocalyptic theme, I'd say patina the edges somehow too. And maybe some finish color inside. Although you wouldn't want anything that would soak into the cards. I saw also another post you had mentioned Snow-Seal. Have you ever used Trekking Biwell? That's what I've been using on my backpacking boots for the last 15 years or so and like it much better. You can get it from backpacking stores or on the 'net. It's made in Switzerland. Doesn't smell quite as good as Snow Seal though.

"Before you cringe" ????? What? Looks great! I've been trying to get that effect for a while! Thanks for sharing it. What brand gel dye? I see leather occasionally with a "mottled" (sp?) look, but I haven't been able to get it to look like I want. I've tried mixing (or more like slightly stirring) different colored dyes, but it never comes out well. How long do you let it sit on there before wiping it off?

Thanks Sewmun! Looks like I have stitches too. I adjusted the timing according to the diagram you posted, and I have stitches now. The guy at the shoe repair place had shown me his timing method, but it was off. I have to hold the thread to the rear with a little tension, and I'm not getting the first few stitches to catch, but that's just on test pieces so far. I'll put a couple new pieces of leather in it and try it next. I've tried new and old thread. However, since this last adjustment, it hasn't cut it. I did start one line where the needle stuck through the thread. Stuck the needle through my finger trying to pull it off. I suppose that's another good use for the tiny pieces of leather I refuse to toss. The needle seems to be punching a massive hole for this little thread to be running though. I'm going to try a smaller needle also. Any idea what the maximum thread size for this machine is? I didn't see it in the manual, it just says "Match needle thread to material thickness and use left-torsion threads." And "The bobbin thread should be thinner or softer than the needle thread." I'll try a few things and post again.

Does anyone know if there is a good material (read, inexpensive, and easy to work with, drys/hardens without shrinkage) to make "custom" "blue guns"? What I'm running into, is that some guns (and knives) have parts that, when wet molded around, will hold too tightly. Parts like; slide release pins, front sight, safety, magazine release, etc. on guns. And on knives; hilts, blade cutouts/holes, thumb studs, etc. What I'd like to do is make a mold, then modify the mold, extending the protruding parts back out to the opening in the mold, then pour in the blue gu. Plaster (at least the stuff I got from the hobby shop) shrinks and cracks. Durhams Rock Hard Putty shrinks and warps (regardless of their claim). Epoxy is too expensive, time consuming, and tough clean up. If it's cheap enough, one time use is ok for the plug. The mold should be good for a few pours. Mostly, I don't want to be doing my own plastic recycling in the garage. Some type of two part poly that's not as pricey as epoxy would be great. Mik

Strange that it would be illegal to get a plastic "blue gun". However, it also sounds like an opportunity to work with your local law enforcement to obtain a special permit as a holster maker. Seems like you could pick up a lot of custom local work without much, if any, competition. If I'm correct, that's a popular duty weapon in Brazil. So you might be able to go to your local police department, and see if they'll let you wrap one of theirs in plastic and wet form on location. I'm sure they would get a kick out of watching, and you could probably pick up more work right there. Mik

Sewmun, the thread I'm using is "Rice's 1oz nylon Machine Twist D/E". This is what was with the machine when I got it. I've also tried "Coats Extra Strong, Dual Duty Plus, Button Craft" (just because I had several colors). And I tried some heavy thread that came in a hand sewing awl ("The Speedy Stitcher"), but I was holding the spool in one hand rather than feeding it through it's proper course. Thinking the top thread tensioner was already tight on the smaller thread. Although I've sewn fabrics on a home model (Singer 413 Stylist, 252 Fashion Mate, and a Husqvarna 118(?)) I'm new to all this, so bear with me. I don't see any other indication of thread size on the spools I have, but I noticed on this forum, there are designations with 3-digit sizing. I haven't done that research yet, so I don't know what else I can say there. The needles I have are Weltmarke 332 100/6 (on the package) and on the shank is imprinted Lammertz 160. It is a large round needle, with only a very slight scallop above the eye. In the machine when I got it was a GB 120. A very cool needle, as it has a twist to the flattened point which makes my (hand) stitches lay all in the same direction. It is smaller than the 332, and has a more defined scallop above the eye. Ginny, I took my presser foot leaf spring off and from a flat surface, it measures 5/16" to the top, 3/16" to the underside. (eyeing it, I couldn't find my calipers) At it's lightest setting, it still leaves marks on the 4-5oz veg tan leather, though there is hardly any pressure. When I take mine to the local guy here, I'll see what he says about how it feels. You said you were going to Charleston, SC? I'm in Columbia. The guy I'll be taking mine to knows these machines well. Tommy Lightner (sp?). Many thanks everyone for the replies! I am encouraged by all of what I've seen on this forum. My son is getting more interested as well. Oh, the projects we've thought up! Mik

I am having the same problem (plus others). I was thinking it was timing at first. Still could be the problem, but it's just not hooking the top thread. I've tried several needles, and moved the needle as far to the right as it will go. Operation manual says to use "needle system 332 L" and "left-torsion" thread???? Oh, the manual is available still in PDF on Adler's web site. Adler 30. And shoesystemsplus has a .BMP file of the exploded view with part numbers. I can email these to anyone that needs them. Anyway, the timing is adjusted by two screws. Don't disassemble anything if you don't absolutely need to. A fella at a shoe repair shop showed the screws to me on his 30-1, and how to adjust the timing, although I still might not have it right. If you're not familiar with setting up a sewing machine in general (or patcher in this case), it will eliminate a LOT of frustration to take it to an expert. Let them know what you plan to stitch, and he/she can have it set up exactly how you need it. The info you gain from talking to someone that's in the business can completely outweigh the cost of a repair or adjustment. I design and fabricate lots of things, but trust me on this one! There's a reason even engineers say "runs like a sewing machine!" when they're happy with some type of machinery. On mine the take-up lever cuts the thread, the top thread tension seems way too high (even with the adjusting nut barely holding on), and the bobbin shuttle rarely hooks the thread off the needle. So I'll be taking mine in next week. I'll post back with the results and hopefully a report on what was adjusted. I can't wait to actually stitch with it. It's been a great hole puncher so far. My presser foot spring has about the same arc. And even at the lightest setting, it makes a pair of tracks along the stitch line (line of holes thus far). However, it doesn't feel like too much pressure, just to aggressive a foot. I think I'll just machine a new foot for working with the finished side of leather. If anyone with a nicely running 30-1 could please post a picture or two showing their timing, I'm sure lots of us would appreciate it.