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Posts posted by JLSleather
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Patterns for / of what? Doesn't matter? Tandy has 6 or 8 you can download for free, and there's a million or so "doodle pages" on Ebay for next to nothing. Otherwise, try this ...
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Where can I buy soft, flexible leather with no finish? I want to be able to tool it and dye it, but have it "drape". Something in 2/3 or 3/4 oz, and natural. Preferably by the side, though if you know someone who sells shoulders that would be fine.
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I snooped at some length last night, yours one of the sites I saw. There were some good (to me) aspects on many of the layouts. Just some things I've been thinking ...
I personally like the cascading menus, as I think they're easier to use. I hate it when I get new software, or someone updates their site, and that button that used to be over there is now over there. CC's site was good in this way ... that little drop-down menu ... always in the same place.
If I'm going to have a site where people can buy something, I want them to be able to find it. I know I've "hung up" on people - on the web, on the phone, standing in front of them - because they took forever to get to what they are selling and how much does it cost me.
Spell checker is a good thing, doncha think?
I used to play a LOT of handball, and I always like to play somebody BETTER than me. I'm getting what I need, enjoying doing it, AND learning something.
Leather is no different ... so in addition to websites, I've snooped through a number of profiles (if you see I ducked in / ducked out of yours, not to worry ... I'm harmless ). If I ever start thinking I know how to color leather, I'll just go browse kiwidownunder's work. Yes, that's a "plug", and I'm thinking my site should include links to some other crafters' work. Maybe not the best business approach, but I like it.
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Thanks for the suggestions! I'll take a better look at it tomorrow today ... I'd be asleep if it wasn't for this toothache... You folks get some rest!
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How tight a corner are you talking about? If you're thinking about a round or head knife, thinking you'd like to use those, maybe you just go ahead and get the knife you want and PUNCH out the tight curve and cut the straight lines between, until you gain some proficiency.
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Okay, not illiterate, but usually busy. Before someone tells me to use the search I'll just say trust me, I did - to the point it's way past my nap time Ancient history has me creating .pdf's with Acrobat 5, stumling through a little Photoshop, and hacking out some bearable pages showing a couple hundred pics of my babies using GoLive (well, at least the kids are cute). This machine works 'ok' but my next baby will take it over before long. Since I'll need a new machine, might as well get the right toys right from the start.
To the question .... especially now that there's a Directory. What are all those new sites being written in? I'm a hands on guy (my wife incorrectly diagnoses 'obsessive'). Wouldn't have a problem paying to get set up, but I'd want to be able to get in and change photos (by way of example), so would want the software anyway.
With some skeletal knowledge of Adobe stuff, I thought to just get the latest CS. A look at their web site reminded me how proud of that they got ($1500 to fake it some more??). Hands-on like I said, so I'll research a bit anyway, but would appreciate a quick line from folks who know more about this (thanks in advance).
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I like the color contrast. Bold without being loud. Oh, and the green color we all like, too...
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There's a bunch of Weaver stuff - including the strop board -- here.
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Pretty tough to see (it's way bigger than my screen), but if the customer liked it yer good
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Website bookmarked ... thanks!
Raphael Sewing Machines Inc. / TECHSEW
Tel: 1-866-415-8223
ron@raphaelsewing.com
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I know nothing about sewing machines -- any sewing machine. I'm not mechanically challenged, but the terminology is a different language for me. I've had Bridgeport Mills, Thompsen surface grinders, Intel and AMD computers, and Ford Broncos apart AND back together, but one post on here about sewing machines left me scratching my head (though it seemed like good information to others who read it).
Sew what I need (sorry ) is some plain information about getting started with this.
Maybe a couple of years I'll have need for it and that guy up the street will sell me that shoe shop he doesn't use and won't lease out.
For the moment, I need to sew multiple lining leathers for handbags/wallets/organizers. As in like 3- 4 layers of 2 oz chrome tanned. When I can carve and dye a dozen a week, it's irritating to then be bogged down the following week sewing linings. I'd buy them prefabricated if I could find them the way I want them, but then what do I do when those boys show up wanting changes? I make an occasional holster or lined belt, and have no problem hand sewing those.
Is there already a video around here SHOWING some leather being machine stitched, but I just missed it? I started to watch that Tippman thing, but couldn't take any more about bolting it to the table Not to mention that seemed like a lot of money for something I have to operate by hand anyway.
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Have to think about that one. Oh, are we talking about the black ink or the gray shadow?
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Is there a thickness of leather that is easier for a beginner to knife and tool. Is thinner leather more forgiving, or is it the other way around that thicker leather is better for beginners?
Thanks,
John
Personal preference. I know alot of people have started out making belts/straps (7/8 oz up to 9/10 oz), but I think that's because it's a relatively small initial investment -- not because it's easier or harder.
Everything else equal, heavier leather will have less stretch and shrink. One note; the very light (like a 2 oz calf or kip) can easily be cut right through if you aint watchin'.
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Tapadero Lamp
in Art
Holy Cow! Man that's a nice lamp...Just....WOW!!
Me, too ... tha's jus PURDY.
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Love the swept basketweave.
Color without "gaudy", basketweave without "boxey", balanced look. I'm liking it.
One thing ... I would make a point of turning BOTH crosses right-side-up (definitely).
Nice case!
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hmmm marbled effect, sounds intresting i have an idea or two on that one, what would you suggest ?
That would take forever to explain, but you can see it done if you check youtube and search for "airbrush smoke". Tends to look bigger than it is, just information. Years back, I remodeled this little girl's bedroom. Her and the sister were getting on each other's nerves - or something like that - so she was moving to another "room". It was so small that by the time we gutted and drywalled, I'm thinking even this little one (about 5-6 years) is going to go nuts. Painted the thing to look like the sky ... shades blended blues gradually fading to a white ceiling (no line). STILL the talk around here, little girl is now 14 and "dating" my oldest...
SURELY she's gonna want that painted "big girl" style soon ...
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customer liked the colors the stars the boarder then said they wanted it in a distress fasion ...is still for aproval to get the job, the final bag will be much much bigger.
I was going to suggest a hint of gold mixed into the white if you're using gold hardware, but if they like the color, there's no arguing with that. The "distressed" is a whole nuther issue. Depending on how large the bag, you might find a hide that has that already in it that you can cut out of? You might paint using a "marbled" effect, but that takes a bit of time and it sounds like you have some good labor in it already ...
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the glue dots worked well, how ever the customer didnt see it my way (chuckle) so back to the drawing board, some customers have no flair for artistic expansions (chuckle)
&^$^#%$&%&%$%&$!!!
I was looking for the finished goodies How about this.... paint (with a S M A L L brush) your glue on (or whatever you use to mask)...paint the sky (probably wiith a thin wash)... then remove the glue (pointed X-acto works as well as anything). Keeps 'em bright without being "raised" (??).
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If they're just getting you some work, and the customer pays you directly, it's nothing more than a word of mouth thing and I wouldn't thinik they're entitled to anything.
If they're running the billing through the shop, and paying you for your service, then it seems legitimate they'd get something. I would think this would be considered in the priice you get (they're marking it up).
Two things come to mind, here, though, for me personally.
1.) If it's a rare thing and they want to discuss their "cut", I'd likely decide it's not worth it. In fact, I'm obnoxious and would probably remind them that I'm helping them, not the other way around. They're not only [apparently] looking to get paid, they're also getting out of telling a customer "we can't help you". Doubt they want to do that too much.
2.) Do I enjoy the work? I once told a guy I wouldn't make him what he wanted. He asked why and I said it's because I'm not a prostitute. He looked confused, so I explained that you can' t just give me money and then I do whatever you want.
For what it's worth...
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Very nice work, looking forward to your future projects
I like the handles, too. Actually, I like the color and stitching, but especially the handles. Somebody STILL owes me one, though ... now my wife wants one like that - - ... only with a different flower...and with a fully-enclosed flap ... and it can't be heavy... wow -- thanks alot
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good idea, your right ... thanks again JLS.
maddhatter
Never too big to accept a compliment, but this one's already out and public, kaint git the credit... that idea was Stohlman's (or someone he knew) But you're welcome anyway, glad I could help.
You a MN boy? My buddy up the street is from there, but he's clearly not the brightest star in the [MN] sky ... didn't go NEARLY far enough south ...
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Hi,
I'm new to leather crafting, but after my first project I have a couple questions.
1. How do you prevent tool marks when backgrounding.
2. What weight mallet do you use for each general tooling procedure. For example, when you basketweave, what weight mallet do you use, or when you bevel or background, what weight do you use. Is there a rule of thumb, especially since I lack any experience.
I use a 9 oz mallet for all of it, including the background. Most of what I do is on 3 to 10 oz leather, if that's another factor. Another guy used to do some work for us, used a big (well, I thought it was big) 16 oz mallet (not a maul). Used to "harrass" him a bit... some of the boys called him "Thor" Really a matter of personal preference, though, and your tools should leave good impressions as long as your force is consistent and there's a bit of overlap in the strikes.
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I agree that all should search, but I think that a fair amount of repeated questions are to be expected.
Well said, youngster. I ran a business a while back, and my "straw boss" got his job because he was remarkable... in that I couldn't remember a time that kid asked me the same question twice. He was the only one could say that.
Your other point is well taken, and the previous paragraph is there for this point ... somebody typing in "business" and "job" and "question" will get this post, which is no answer for what he's looking for. Not that that's always bad ... earlier tonight I did a search for "lilly" for some flowers and got a rather scarcely dressed actress
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That's a lot of stuff about blades. I can't say much about the ceramics, because I don't own one. Buddy had one and let me try it, but I wasn't impressed one way or the other. But, I've had steel blades last for years. Couple of swipes across a fine stone every so often. Was it Newton .... what doesn't start to dull won't continue to dull... something like that. Plus, I'm a tool maker, so I'm used to sharpening things. Didn't count, but doing the math I'd say that cheap (a few bucks) steel blade was good for 1200 hours of cutting (10 hours a day for a year, swivel knife in my hand a little under half the time). Yep, steel for me.
Oh, and no "hollow ground" blades. Too wide a path for detail.
Soft Veg Tanned
in Suppliers
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I'll do that. Headed down there soon as the wind is slower than the speed limit . Thanks!